11-01-2013, 02:21 AM
Ok, what has been stated here is reasonably accurate, but not completely. First things first. Why do you want a two hander? If you intend to Steelhead only once or twice, save the cash and just buy a one hander. Lots of succesful anglers use one handers. I still use them frequently. That being said I love two handers. I have several, including a 4-wt I use on trout waters. Hell, I throw size 20 drys with it. Seriously don't expect to go out on your first adventure and master a two hander. It's like learning all over again. You're going to suck, again. But, it will make you a better using a one hander.
Lines for two handers are not like just going and getting a X weight forward full floating bla bla. Every line has; a running line section, a belly, and a tip section. Then again so does a standard fly line. Just with "Spey" lines they are frequently separated. It's kinda the ala'carte of fly lines.
You need to figure out the water you intend to fish. It is very difficult to roll a Skagit over 90 feet. There are three basic line sets; traditional Spey, which has a long belly and can easily power 90 feet plus. On the other extreme is a Skagit which has a short heavy belly / head. It rips through wind and is very nice at short quick casts. In between is a Scandinavian. A Scandi is kinda all purpose. All of these, like any fly lines require backing. Don't scrimp on backing. If you get a good hit you can see backing quickly. It sucks to loose $150 of fly line because of poor backing. A traditional Spey line typically has an integral running line. Not many folks in the West use them. Maybe on the Clearwater but that's BIG ass water. There are Scandi's that also have integral running line. Rio AFS, for example is a great line and has integral running line. Skagits almost never have integral running line.
The tips referred to are interchangeable tips that float or sink. They have predetermined sink rates in Inches Per Second. You swap tips to target water columns where the fish are. It is not uncommon to carry 10 different tips. And shooting heads are a different thing entirely.
Like I said "Spey" lines are not Xwt bla bla. They are weighted by grains of the belly section. There are two basic ways to select the grain size. Try several out until you find what you like. Or, call the rod manufacturer and ask what they used to develop the rod. While not fool proof that is a good way to get started. On a 7/8 weight medium speed rod, you will likely go mid to upper 500's in a Scandi, and maybe into 600 for a Skagit. While you can probably cast a 400'ish grain nicely on the lawn or in a pond. When the wind picks up, not so much. My 7 wt Sage One is happy happy with a 625 grain Skagit or a 565 grain long belly Scandi. Scotties 9 wt War Hammer rips a 800 grain Spey.
Leaders are interesting. Sometimes I use a tapered leader, but frequently I just go with 6 feet of 30 lb fluorocarbon. Depends if I am swinging, chuckin streamers or indicator fishing.
Just remember two handers open Pandora's Box. If you want to know more PM me, or go buy Dec Hogan's book.
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Lines for two handers are not like just going and getting a X weight forward full floating bla bla. Every line has; a running line section, a belly, and a tip section. Then again so does a standard fly line. Just with "Spey" lines they are frequently separated. It's kinda the ala'carte of fly lines.
You need to figure out the water you intend to fish. It is very difficult to roll a Skagit over 90 feet. There are three basic line sets; traditional Spey, which has a long belly and can easily power 90 feet plus. On the other extreme is a Skagit which has a short heavy belly / head. It rips through wind and is very nice at short quick casts. In between is a Scandinavian. A Scandi is kinda all purpose. All of these, like any fly lines require backing. Don't scrimp on backing. If you get a good hit you can see backing quickly. It sucks to loose $150 of fly line because of poor backing. A traditional Spey line typically has an integral running line. Not many folks in the West use them. Maybe on the Clearwater but that's BIG ass water. There are Scandi's that also have integral running line. Rio AFS, for example is a great line and has integral running line. Skagits almost never have integral running line.
The tips referred to are interchangeable tips that float or sink. They have predetermined sink rates in Inches Per Second. You swap tips to target water columns where the fish are. It is not uncommon to carry 10 different tips. And shooting heads are a different thing entirely.
Like I said "Spey" lines are not Xwt bla bla. They are weighted by grains of the belly section. There are two basic ways to select the grain size. Try several out until you find what you like. Or, call the rod manufacturer and ask what they used to develop the rod. While not fool proof that is a good way to get started. On a 7/8 weight medium speed rod, you will likely go mid to upper 500's in a Scandi, and maybe into 600 for a Skagit. While you can probably cast a 400'ish grain nicely on the lawn or in a pond. When the wind picks up, not so much. My 7 wt Sage One is happy happy with a 625 grain Skagit or a 565 grain long belly Scandi. Scotties 9 wt War Hammer rips a 800 grain Spey.
Leaders are interesting. Sometimes I use a tapered leader, but frequently I just go with 6 feet of 30 lb fluorocarbon. Depends if I am swinging, chuckin streamers or indicator fishing.
Just remember two handers open Pandora's Box. If you want to know more PM me, or go buy Dec Hogan's book.
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