11-19-2020, 03:33 AM
I think you are on the right track. I generally struggle to want to afford the extra cost of tungsten jigs and opt instead for more variety and higher numbers of lead jigs.
If I understand it at all, the benefits of tungsten as a material are best realized on the very small end of the jig spectrum. Tiny objects have high surface area per mass, and that creates drag and bouyancy problems. Tungsten is more dense than lead, so it can have same mass in smaller surface area per volume,, or more mass in the same volume as lead does. I think this matters most when you want the tiniest of jig heads, or small heads that get down fast. Just a few millimeters across, say, for fussy big bluegills clamped up at Mantua after the first week of ice has been pounded by that first rush. One of my favorite lures at that time is a Nuclear Ant, which is the size of two mustard seeds strung on a size 16 hook, and which parachutes down on its little wiggly arms, to boot. I literally cannot just "send it to the bottom" even on 2 lb line. I have to drop it with one of those depth plunger weights, establish depth, haul it up, and send the lure naked back down the hole while it takes 30-40 seconds to sink 10 feet. OR, I have to set a bobber stop, messure that out, and change it every hole. OR, I have to hand-line fish up after setting the hook, once I start getting bites. If that jig was twice as heavy, that would be great! Other hand, if the perch or crappie are biting good, I like these jigs shaoed like a flat banana with a heavy bottom. At 1/8- 1/4 oz, those rocket to the depths, and I doubt having a profile a shade smaller would matter.........unless I was fishing 120 feet down with 10 lb line.....?
Imagine waiting and waiting while a BB sized glass or plastic jiig struggled to drag 4 lb line down 30 feet. You'd never be able to tell when you got there, your strike sensitivity would be awful, especially on "negative" strikes, and you'd spend all day trying to feel your jig, or get it to register on the spring bobber.
So, my $0.02 is bought a good handful of tungsten jigs running from miniscule up to the small range, and then fish whatever is working best.
If I understand it at all, the benefits of tungsten as a material are best realized on the very small end of the jig spectrum. Tiny objects have high surface area per mass, and that creates drag and bouyancy problems. Tungsten is more dense than lead, so it can have same mass in smaller surface area per volume,, or more mass in the same volume as lead does. I think this matters most when you want the tiniest of jig heads, or small heads that get down fast. Just a few millimeters across, say, for fussy big bluegills clamped up at Mantua after the first week of ice has been pounded by that first rush. One of my favorite lures at that time is a Nuclear Ant, which is the size of two mustard seeds strung on a size 16 hook, and which parachutes down on its little wiggly arms, to boot. I literally cannot just "send it to the bottom" even on 2 lb line. I have to drop it with one of those depth plunger weights, establish depth, haul it up, and send the lure naked back down the hole while it takes 30-40 seconds to sink 10 feet. OR, I have to set a bobber stop, messure that out, and change it every hole. OR, I have to hand-line fish up after setting the hook, once I start getting bites. If that jig was twice as heavy, that would be great! Other hand, if the perch or crappie are biting good, I like these jigs shaoed like a flat banana with a heavy bottom. At 1/8- 1/4 oz, those rocket to the depths, and I doubt having a profile a shade smaller would matter.........unless I was fishing 120 feet down with 10 lb line.....?
Imagine waiting and waiting while a BB sized glass or plastic jiig struggled to drag 4 lb line down 30 feet. You'd never be able to tell when you got there, your strike sensitivity would be awful, especially on "negative" strikes, and you'd spend all day trying to feel your jig, or get it to register on the spring bobber.
So, my $0.02 is bought a good handful of tungsten jigs running from miniscule up to the small range, and then fish whatever is working best.