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Leaded trolling line question
#17
If you use a swivel to attach a leader to your leadcore, be sure to use one small enough that it will fit through your guides. Otherwise, your leader can't be longer than your rod or you won't be able to net your fish. And a good fish will straighten out a small swivel, which is why the knot is a better alternative.

As for 18# vs 27# leadcore, they both contain the same amount of lead so their sink rates are the same if you're not moving. But since the 27# has a thicker dacron sheath than the 18#, it is thicker. And thicker lines do not achieve the same depths as thinner lines due to friction of the water pulling the line back up to the level of your rod tip. That's why leadcore is so speed dependant--because of the thickness of the line. And that's why your crankbaits will dive deeper using a superline like Fireline than they will with mono.

Check ebay for a reel for your leadcore setup. A Penn 209 would be a good, cheap option. As for the ideal rod, check Bass Pro's application specific rods by Keith Kavajecz and Gary Parsons. If you don't want to buy their leadcore trolling rod, then match the specs and buy local. You should be able to get a good 8' light action trolling rod for about $20.

As for snubbers, I don't use them. They're training wheels for those who don't have good drags or who don't set them right. That's also a common culprit for lost wipers at Willard that you read so much about. You want the drags set tight enough to ensure a good hook set but loose enough so you don't rip the fish's lips off. Even with no-stretch line, the right rod and drag setting make all the difference.
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Messages In This Thread
Leaded trolling line question - by acey - 06-21-2004, 12:04 AM
Re: [chayden] Leaded trolling line question - by Gumbo - 06-24-2004, 06:08 PM

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