05-07-2013, 07:58 PM
Thanks for the reply.
There wasn't anything like what you describe, a "Fork" or "U" shaped tool with the tube when I examined it. Nothing inside the bladder areas, pockets or anywhere else.
For deflation, I inverted the top of the end caps into the opening, a perfect fit, as designed I assume, and that keeps the valve open for the air to escape along some "thin grooves" as the outside of the cap and the inside of the valve opening have a 12 point, star shape, kind of like a "Torx" wrench or bolt head.
Now that I think about it, with the top of the cap being inserted into the opening, it's probably slowing the flow of air out of the bladder.
A "fork or key" to keep the valve open would make a lot more sense if it allowed more air to escape rather than the inverted and inserted cap. Perhaps the "cap as the key" is a fall back for deflation if the original ones were lost or misplaced???
Can those valve "keeper openers" be had or can they be fabbed up in my shop? Just need the basics, or a pic or two, in order to not make something that will booger up the valve.
I am pretty handy at that sort of stuff, got lots of different materials laying around. Being a retired Stainless Steel fabrication business owner, I was one heck of an engineer and "contraptionist" in my day, if one is allowed to toot one's own horn around here. [
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In fact, I've been kicking around the idea of fabricating a Stainless Steel version of a pontoon frame that a friend of mine has. His has several cracked and broken welds in the regular steel / painted frame. Pretty crappy industrial welding if I say so myself!
I really hate it when manufacturers build their products to the "absolute minimum engineering standards" that will just barely get the product to the end of the warranty period, if then even.
OK, off my soap box now.
Thanks for sharing the info and the link to the valve replacement video, I'll check it out! []
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There wasn't anything like what you describe, a "Fork" or "U" shaped tool with the tube when I examined it. Nothing inside the bladder areas, pockets or anywhere else.
For deflation, I inverted the top of the end caps into the opening, a perfect fit, as designed I assume, and that keeps the valve open for the air to escape along some "thin grooves" as the outside of the cap and the inside of the valve opening have a 12 point, star shape, kind of like a "Torx" wrench or bolt head.
Now that I think about it, with the top of the cap being inserted into the opening, it's probably slowing the flow of air out of the bladder.
A "fork or key" to keep the valve open would make a lot more sense if it allowed more air to escape rather than the inverted and inserted cap. Perhaps the "cap as the key" is a fall back for deflation if the original ones were lost or misplaced???
Can those valve "keeper openers" be had or can they be fabbed up in my shop? Just need the basics, or a pic or two, in order to not make something that will booger up the valve.
I am pretty handy at that sort of stuff, got lots of different materials laying around. Being a retired Stainless Steel fabrication business owner, I was one heck of an engineer and "contraptionist" in my day, if one is allowed to toot one's own horn around here. [
]In fact, I've been kicking around the idea of fabricating a Stainless Steel version of a pontoon frame that a friend of mine has. His has several cracked and broken welds in the regular steel / painted frame. Pretty crappy industrial welding if I say so myself!
I really hate it when manufacturers build their products to the "absolute minimum engineering standards" that will just barely get the product to the end of the warranty period, if then even.
OK, off my soap box now.
Thanks for sharing the info and the link to the valve replacement video, I'll check it out! [
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