New Float Project

[packfish]

So I put my yamaha kicker on my transom along side of the big motor, it fits, but since it is a tiller control, it won't turn all the way toward the right, but looks good otherwise... I really like that motor on the transom verses a trolling motor plate.  Not sure how much the limited turn will affect things, I'm sure it won't be ideal, but I know in the past I've used the main motor as a rudder that helps steer the boat while trolling, so maybe I can just run the kicker straight and steer with the main motor???? 

I started putting new seats in and I'm not sure I like the one I got, it's almost sitting too straight up, it needs to lean back a little more... Plus the locations of the seats make for really cramped conditions, has anyone moved the seat post locations on this type of boat before.  It has metal rather than wood throughout the floor and I'm sure you don't want to hit one of those cross braces when you relocate the sockets for the seat posts...  Going to have to look into this.  I think I'd rather put my seats in a good spot for fishing rather than having room for four seats in the floor area.  Current location works fine for hauling four folks from place to place, but you can't rotate towards the back and have room to fish, I know they usually focus on fishing from the fish platforms, but when I troll I don't like to do that from the bow, it's a lot more fun from the cabin area... Starting to see more and more things I fixed on my old boat that I'll have to change on this one to get it where I like it for the way I fish and use a boat...  Sure would like to get it on the water and try a few things out... Later J

 You should be able to use it that way., using the main motor as a rudder. Thats why I have that tolling motor mount. I never needed it and just used the main motor as a rudder. After I sold that boat and purchased a new one I still sometime do that with an Ipilot up front .

[SkunkedAgain]

Oh one problem with the kicker motor where it is, I lose the easy access to the battery compartment for when I'm moving batteries in and out of the boat.. That's a bummer, guess I'll have to buy new batteries instead of switching them in and out of farm equipment...

Has anyone added a swim platform on one side of their motors? I see some in Overton's just wondering if they are any good? The trade off with my wife for getting a new boat was it needed to be family friendly for skiing or tubing, so I think the swim deck will help cover that trade off, so it's easy in and out of the water... I need to make sure it protects my transducers too... Hoping this boat will have the beans to pull a tube so it's a fun ride, plus I'd love to kneeboard again before I get too old to still do it... maybe weight is more a factor than age there though.... I better lose a few dozen pounds... Later J

[2knots]

Look at one of those steering rod connectors that ties the 2 motors together and steer with the wheel, I added a couple washers to the front of my seat (where it connect to pedestal) to get them to tilt back a bit the way I wanted it. Another option in lieu of moving the bases is to mount the seats on box (diamond plate tool box) that you just move where you want it or take out if you don’t have a full load

[SkunkedAgain]

I have heard that folks are using their ipilots to do the steering and just running the kicker motors for propulsion while trolling so they save their batteries. I really like that idea, I hate tending my kicker motors when they constantly want to turn on me when I'm catching a fish or not watching... would be a lot easier to just push a button to correct rather than run to the back of the boat and change directions... Plus if I did that I could point the motor straight and tighten it down in that spot. Thanks for the confirmation on that idea... J

[dubob]

Jeff,

Congrats on the new (to you) ride.  My previous boat was a 16 ft Tracker I bought new and ran for 11 years.  Excellent boat and I never had any major issues with it.  This may be outside your allocated budget, but I am STRONGLY recommending that you consider adding an electric trolling motor up front to steer the boat.  You will need a 24 vdc for the 18-foot Tracker and don't skimp on batteries - use AGMs.

Also, you can use manual riggers all day long and only reel them up once when your done fishing; buy Shuttle Hawks and use them to get your line down/back down after each release.  They float back to the surface and are ready to go back down when you've boated the fish.  Very effective.  they can also be used effectively for stacking on electric riggers.

[SkunkedAgain]

Hey Alan, I really like that box idea, except I may make it a shallow box that just has room for the post mount and a big flat plate underneath to prevent tip overs. That is really a good idea, then you could have those seats where you needed them at each point of the trip... Great thought thanks... On the rod connecting the motors, I'd love that, but where the kicker hits the side of the boat and limits travel the one direction, I wouldn't want that to limit the main motors travel too, so unless I figure out a better mounting I probably won't do that with this motor. Thanks for some great suggestions... J

[2knots]

Yes the electric up front is very nice, I added a skeg to mine so that when I turn it the boat responds better without using much thrust from the electric (use the kicker for the power). If you want to try out some shuttle hawks as Bob mentioned I have some you can use/have that I got when I had manual DR’s

[SkunkedAgain]

Bob, Alan, I didn't know how those shuttle hawks work, but that sounds like a good option until I can get another electric unit. And Bob, I do plan on the electric bow mount, but it may take me a year or so to get into it... They really sound like a nice addition to a fishing boat... They should actually mount up pretty well on this boat, verses my old square nose that I was trying to figure out how to make them work... Now it should be easy...

Bob, you mentioned AGM batteries, I've been hearing lots of press on the lithium batteries lately, they are really expensive, but sounds like they have a lot longer life than AGM or regular deep cycle batteries... Anyone tried them yet and have any success or horror stories? I love my lithium's on my ice gear, but weight savings is very important there, plus the smaller batteries aren't as expensive... Just curious $500 is a lot for a battery... Later J

[dubob]

Bob, Alan, I didn't know how those shuttle hawks work, but that sounds like a good option until I can get another electric unit.  And Bob, I do plan on the electric bow mount, but it may take me a year or so to get into it... They really sound like a nice addition to a fishing boat... They should actually mount up pretty well on this boat, verses my old square nose that I was trying to figure out how to make them work... Now it should be easy...

Bob, you mentioned AGM batteries, I've been hearing lots of press on the lithium batteries lately, they are really expensive, but sounds like they have a lot longer life than AGM or regular deep cycle batteries... Anyone tried them yet and have any success or horror stories?  I love my lithium's on my ice gear, but weight savings is very important there, plus the smaller batteries aren't as expensive... Just curious $500 is a lot for a battery... Later J

If you want to buy 2 lithium Gp 27s at $800 per vs 2 AGM 27s at $200 per ($1,600 vs $400), then go for it.  ?  AGM's allow 700 to 800 discharges down to 20% (like lithiums do) vs 200 to 300 discharges down to 50% for SLA batts.  You won't own the boat long enough to wear out 2 sets of AGM batts if properly maintained.  Best bang for the buck in my opinion. But then, if you have one of those cushy, high payin' Gubment jobs, go for the lithium; know what I mean Vern?

[Bduck]

So I put my yamaha kicker on my transom along side of the big motor, it fits, but since it is a tiller control, it won't turn all the way toward the right, but looks good otherwise... I really like that motor on the transom verses a trolling motor plate.  Not sure how much the limited turn will affect things, I'm sure it won't be ideal, but I know in the past I've used the main motor as a rudder that helps steer the boat while trolling, so maybe I can just run the kicker straight and steer with the main motor???? 

I started putting new seats in and I'm not sure I like the one I got, it's almost sitting too straight up, it needs to lean back a little more... Plus the locations of the seats make for really cramped conditions, has anyone moved the seat post locations on this type of boat before.  It has metal rather than wood throughout the floor and I'm sure you don't want to hit one of those cross braces when you relocate the sockets for the seat posts...  Going to have to look into this.  I think I'd rather put my seats in a good spot for fishing rather than having room for four seats in the floor area.  Current location works fine for hauling four folks from place to place, but you can't rotate towards the back and have room to fish, I know they usually focus on fishing from the fish platforms, but when I troll I don't like to do that from the bow, it's a lot more fun from the cabin area... Starting to see more and more things I fixed on my old boat that I'll have to change on this one to get it where I like it for the way I fish and use a boat...  Sure would like to get it on the water and try a few things out... Later J

With your tiller handle in up position can your turn kicker fully? In the first pic posted is my setup, unfortunately the tiller handle gets in the way but with this steering rod I'm able to fully turn either way from the helm. Also, the next pic is a throttle control with option of 3 different control dials, I opted for Troll Master Pro2 which gives me an option to upgrade to the Pro3. This device allows you to dial in from the helm adjusting idle speed which is difficult with tiller handle. The kicker I have to start & shift at the kicker, no throttle handle or key start at helm which I have been pondering over for a while.




Try shimming the floor base portion of your seats to add tilt back. Trex decking works great for that, it won't rot. My boat came with 2 bench style removeable cushion seats over storage bins. I left one in place and removed the other. The one I removed I replaced with an ice chest so I can carry food and drinks during the long day fishing. It has a cushion on top of lid for seating which I found on Amazon. I opted here for an Ozark Trail Chest 7Day cooler purchased at Walmart and is carried in different sizes. Its built tough and unlike some other chests the lid doesn't bow out of shape. It is also where I ice down my catch. Most of the time there is 2 of us fishing in the boat with myself as an occasional loner. Anything above 2 is rare. I like the room which also serves a safety aspect not tripping over items that take up floor space.



BTW, I like helping a fellow fisherman spend his money!!!!! 

[Tin-Can]

So I put my yamaha kicker on my transom along side of the big motor, it fits, but since it is a tiller control, it won't turn all the way toward the right, but looks good otherwise... I really like that motor on the transom verses a trolling motor plate.  Not sure how much the limited turn will affect things, I'm sure it won't be ideal, but I know in the past I've used the main motor as a rudder that helps steer the boat while trolling, so maybe I can just run the kicker straight and steer with the main motor???? 

I started putting new seats in and I'm not sure I like the one I got, it's almost sitting too straight up, it needs to lean back a little more... Plus the locations of the seats make for really cramped conditions, has anyone moved the seat post locations on this type of boat before.  It has metal rather than wood throughout the floor and I'm sure you don't want to hit one of those cross braces when you relocate the sockets for the seat posts...  Going to have to look into this.  I think I'd rather put my seats in a good spot for fishing rather than having room for four seats in the floor area.  Current location works fine for hauling four folks from place to place, but you can't rotate towards the back and have room to fish, I know they usually focus on fishing from the fish platforms, but when I troll I don't like to do that from the bow, it's a lot more fun from the cabin area... Starting to see more and more things I fixed on my old boat that I'll have to change on this one to get it where I like it for the way I fish and use a boat...  Sure would like to get it on the water and try a few things out... Later J

Jeff,  those seats from Cabela's, are they plastic at the hinge point where the back folds down ?  They are good looking seats, and much less $$ than many others. But if those are plastic hinge and frame support, they aren't very good for an adult over 175 lbs. 
I had some like it on my boat back in 2007  when boat was new.  Had to replace them after a year. The plastic frame and hinge point gets quite soft when out in the sun in hot summer.  I leaned back in one of mine just a little more than sitting and the hinge pin ripped out.  They may work OK for your kids.  But I would recommend finding seats that have at least a 300 lb. load capacity,  even if you only weigh 160-180 .  

[wiperhunter2]

I also use my MinnKota to steer my boat and I lock my kicker motor in the center position to push my boat, works great. As far as your seat goes you could put a slider bracket on the bottom of your seat so you can simply slide your seat forward or back to clear your steering wheel. Here is what mine looks like .

[Bduck]

My boat seats are mounted on a frame what was used on a tractor. 2knots-Alan also has this style in his boat. Each seat frame has 2ea double springs with a shock absorber for a smoother ride. Here is the business link that I have dealt with in the past about those frames getting upgraded replacement springs for them. You can also upgrade to air ride.

https://smoothmovesseats.com/ 

[wiperhunter2]

Those seat systems are nice, I've seen them on Thunder Jets too like the ones that Dubob and Reelfast have and they will for sure smooth out the ride but for $650 to $800 for the upgrade, for each seat, that would get expensive:
https://smoothmovesseats.com/shop/

[dubob]

Those seat systems are nice, I've seen them on Thunder Jets too like the ones that Dubob and Reelfast have and they will for sure smooth out the ride but for $650 to $800 for the upgrade, for each seat, that would get expensive:
https://smoothmovesseats.com/shop/

Ya think?  

[catchinon]

I also use my MinnKota to steer my boat and I lock my kicker motor in the center position to push my boat, works great. As far as your seat goes you could put a slider bracket on the bottom of your seat so you can simply slide your seat forward or back to clear your steering wheel. Here is what mine looks like .




Curt, that was the idea I had so I could move my seat all the way up till the seatback hit the steering wheel. Can you tell how it is done? 

Lately I've noticed that my seats lean too far back for my preference. Anybody know a simple fix for that?

[wiperhunter2]

Curt, that was the idea I had so I could move my seat all the way up till the seatback hit the steering wheel. Can you tell how it is done? 

Lately I've noticed that my seats lean too far back for my preference. Anybody know a simple fix for that?

I guess it depends on how your existing seats are mounted. Mine are mounted on a pedestal, so I just removed the old pedestal mounted seat and installed this new one. I can go out and take a pic of it in my boat, if that would help? The slider track was on the seat when I bought it.

[MrShane]

Jeff,
Save your pennies for an Ulterra, the 24v is nice but the 36v is even better.
With my Ulterra I don’t even get out of my truck to launch my boat in the morning.
If the wind is not blowing and there is not a courtesy dock I will even use it to load my boat at end of the day.

[SkunkedAgain]

Wow I must have taken an extended weekend, I'm way behind in responses... So I'll try to catch up here the best i can... Bob, you're right the Lithiums are not cheap and I won't go that direction because of price, but I do like the recharge cycles, which is like 5X more than the AGM per the numbers I've seen (if you can trust them)... and the weight reduction would be great... So when the price comes down to where poor folk can afford them, I'll probably go that direction... For now probably not... Roger, I talked to Alan the other day about the same thing and I had missed the point that the rod keeps the two synched up so both turn the same direction at the same time, so that saved my interference factor as long as they are linked anyway... I moved my motor closer to the main and it just verily clears the transom on the end of the right hand turns, but it should work if I get a good link to keep them synched up... The rest of your tips would be great if i had the budget and the room, but I lack both, so probably will have to figure out work arounds... For an 18 footer, this boat doesn't have much storage compared to the newer models... kind of , but I'm getting to like a lot of things it will offer, so I'm happy with the boat overall...

Curt and Bob, i love your seat ideas, except for affording them, but nice to look at anyway... Forest, yes unfortunately it does have the plastic hinges... Kind of bumbed about that, this seat had the best reviews on the site I was looking at, but I'm not real happy with them... Good idea to use them as the kid seats and overflow seating... I'll need to find two good high strength seats for the main two seats...

I like that slider idea on the drivers seat, unless it is a problem when I turn to face the rear... I'll have to check that out, I think I may have a clearance issue there... Shane, i'd love the Ulterra, but I was thinking Terrova, but maybe I need to rethink with a different boat... Thanks all for your tips and help... It sure is appreciated

---

So I don't know if anyone has notice I have a bit of a redneck tendency at times, so due to that I was having issues spending $500 plus on a mast for side planers, so I found a piece of old pipe laying around my scrap pile and well I sort of scabbed together a pole that i think will work fine for my boat... Can't wait to go try it, I mount the pipe in my front deck seat mount socket, seems to be secure, if not I'll put a bolt through it, anyway I pass the line through a couple eye bolts and secure it to an old fencing spool... I may get some ice shantee rattle reels to replace that spool, but sort of wanted to test it first... I built a side planer per I think it was a plan Bob provided a couple years back, it worked okay at toon speeds, but I built it smaller than the full size model that the plan covered... so i may have to scale it back up to full size for the boat... I really like the idea of just putting your clips on the main line and letting your rod set the distance how far out the line you fish... So I hope this will work when I get on the water later this year... Not sure what they call this method, but your planer board stays out full distance and your release slides out that line to where you fish, and when you get a bite that clip slides to the planer and you put a new clip on your line when you start fishing again... Hope that makes sense, I'm sort of tied to explain what i was meaning... Later J

[MSM1970]

---

So I don't know if anyone has notice I have a bit of a redneck tendency at times, so due to that I was having issues spending $500 plus on a mast for side planers, so I found a piece of old pipe laying around my scrap pile and well I sort of scabbed together a pole that i think will work fine for my boat... Can't wait to go try it, I mount the pipe in my front deck seat mount socket, seems to be secure, if not I'll put a bolt through it, anyway I pass the line through a couple eye bolts and secure it to an old fencing spool... I may get some ice shantee rattle reels to replace that spool, but sort of wanted to test it first...  I built a side planer per I think it was a plan Bob provided a couple years back, it worked okay at toon speeds, but I built it smaller than the full size model that the plan covered... so i may have to scale it back up to full size for the boat... I really like the idea of just putting your clips on the main line and letting your rod set the distance how far out the line you fish... So I hope this will work when I get on the water later this year... Not sure what they call this method, but your planer board stays out full distance and your release slides out that line to where you fish, and when you get a bite that clip slides to the planer and you put a new clip on your line when you start fishing again... Hope that makes sense, I'm sort of tied to explain what i was meaning... Later J

OH Ya we noticed,    I to have been working on side planer set up, TD has the ideas PVC,  I ended up with a extra seat post,  stuck pvc pipe in it, ACE cleats, small ones,  into it about 20$,  just to hold string,  the 300$ for an official one, a nope,  add pics if you want tonight,  the clip method is the way to go,  nicer than reeling in boards, get the clips off amazon,  running bigger boards, store bought,  still getting the weights right so it works the best, will send pics when I get home if needed,  work dont let me send pics,,,,, added a 1.5 ounces to the front and same but a trailer in the back as rudder,   mast is simple,   and remember you have to store it on the boat,  working on  3/4 pin  mast that will sit up by the bow motor, when you go up on the bow to get into a compartment the string is in the way, also want to store it in the rod holder.