Leave Big motor down?

[Uintaman2]

I have a new boat to me, comes with kicker trolling motor, should I leave the 115 Outboard down or lift it?2nd question, when stored, should outboard and kicker put in the down position or up?  When trailering always up to protect prop and put the weight on the lock mechanism.

[dubob]

I have a new boat to me, comes with kicker trolling motor, should I leave the 115 Outboard down or lift it?2nd question, when stored, should outboard and kicker put in the down position or up?  When trailering always up to protect prop and put the weight on the lock mechanism.

I leave my 150 down while trolling.  It helps to keep the boat track true.  I set the electric up front and the kicker in back straight ahead as best I can.  Then I trim to actually go straight ahead with the big motor.  After that, the steering wheel is never touched and all steering is done with the electric motor up front.  Others bring them up.  It really doesn't matter one way or the other.  

At home, both my motors are left up unless in winter storage when they are left down.

[FishfulThinkin]

I don't have a kicker so I troll with the bow mounted electric when it's calm. (Big motor with trolling plate in windy conditions) I find that if I raise the big motor I get more time on the batteries because of the drag the big motor creates.  I've checked when underway with the electric and I find that my speed on the GPS increases about .2 miles per hour with the motor raised so it does create drag. However, it's whatever you find works best for your situation. I like Bob's idea of using a kicker and electric and only steering with the electric. Maybe I'll get a kicker and try it out. I always lower the motor all the way to drain it (very important in winter) but I store it in the up position.

[RockyRaab2]

I have my big motor up to launch, land, and when trailering. Down the rest of the time to drain.

[BYUHunter]

Down when it's in the water, up any time it is not.

If you think of the physics involved, towing with your motor down puts a lot more leverage on your transom (not to mention the risk of smacking the skeg pulling into the gas station). Towing with the motor up balances the weight between the powerhead and the lower unit on top of the transom - where it is strongest.

You should have a lever on the motor, or a block to put in the strut, to take the tension off of the hydraulic trim.

[MACMAN]

I have a new boat to me, comes with kicker trolling motor, should I leave the 115 Outboard down or lift it?2nd question, when stored, should outboard and kicker put in the down position or up?  When trailering always up to protect prop and put the weight on the lock mechanism.

Merc recommends NOT trailering on the lock mechanism. It’s a hydraulic block or a transom saver. On my old boat I trailered with a transom saver for 20 years without a problem. My new boat has a 200 hp on it and they recommended blocking the hydraulic ram. They claim the transom saver caused issues with internal engine/lower unit parts from road vibration transferred from the trailer. Sounded reasonable to me, so I went with blocks. Crestliner has a lifetime warranty on the transom anyways. 

I also troll with the kicker and main down. I use a remote panther steer on the kicker. 

End of day I lower both outboards to drain while I put everything away. Put up the big motor and leave the kicker down (I have good clearance). This works for winterize as well as the Wyoming check for retained water. I do it every time- good habit to be in.

[Bduck]

Like Bob says I leave my main down while trolling, however I don't have a bow mount electric and opted not to have one. My main motor is a Yamaha F150 & kicker is a Yamaha T9.9.... When I get home from a fishing outing, I lower both with a slight tilt which on the main would be the max trim up and leave them there until next adventure, even long-term storage. This keeps oil from seeping into cylinders preventing an oil burn at start. When both motors are fully extended down, they have a fwd angle.

[LundLefty]

We have a 24v/70# MinnKota PowerDrive with iPilot on the bow of our Lund .With the 115hp big motor fullt trimmed up we can troll all day at .75 - 2.25 mph - our most productive speed range at WB.

I really think the "stealthiness" of trolling with the electric increases our catch rates, especially in shallower water. We troll 4 lines - without planer boards - and put a lot of fish in the boat.

[N.E.T.O.]

I've shopped a lot for boats in years past and one thing that I've noticed a lot of is bent transoms.  This is due to trailering with the motor up with OR without using the factory locking feature. Trailering like this literally bends the transom every time you hit a bump.  What you seek is a TRANSOM SAVER device.  This cradles the lower unit of the big motor and the other end of the transom saver goes again the TRAILER. This takes ALL of the stress OFF of the transom. 

A kicker can be trailered in the DOWN position as they usually won't come near the ground but a transom saver can be used here also. Even smaller kickers can still put a lot of stress on a transom if trailered UP without a transom saver.

Outboards should always be stored DOWN when not in use to allow drainage to prevent freezing AND to prevent water from calcifying inside the compartments in the lower unit.  Replace a few impellers and you'll see what I mean.  Lots of white calcium buildup on the ones that people just leave up when not in use.  Also, as mentioned above...sometimes oil will flow and pool where it really shouldn't. This could easily foul your plugs every now and then and cause hard starting and poor running. 

Here is what I do, and I didn't invent this, it was taught to me by many people:

1.  Trailer with TRANSOM SAVERS always.  Do not use the factory support for trailering.  (Transom savers are cheap and easy to install by the way).
2.  When you get home from fishing, remove the transom savers, and lower the outboards all the way down to allow full drainage and leave the motor(s) down when in your driveway.  This prevents water from calcifying and freezing. You should also BUMP the motors over, all the way down, when you take the boat out of the lake to remove the water from the impeller compartments. (for the same reasons as stated above).  Also, with the motor down, it keeps the oils from going where they should be going and settling as mentioned above.  It's just good practice to leave the motors down when not in use.

On the water, big motor can be up or down when using the little motor for trolling, doesn't matter.  I think it steers better with the big motor down.  At the same time...make sure the little motor is UP when using the big motor...leaving it down WILL bend the transom or rip off the motor when under way with the big motor!  (I've seen this happen!)

Next time you are driving down the freeway, start noticing boats on trailers with outboards.  Most WILL already have transom savers installed and you won't see any "bouncing" of the motor flexing the transom.  But look around for someone who doesn't have a transom saver and notice how much the transom flexes when they hit a bump.  Especially bigger motors like 150's or above. It will shock you.

Transom failures are one of the most common causes of boats needing to be "retired".  And the biggest stress to the transom is NOT when the boat is being used on the water, it's when the boat is being trailered.

DISCLAIMER:  The above is my opinion only.  Your mileage may vary!   I've also run into people who advise AGAINST using the transom savers.  So you will need to do research and decide for yourself.  I also thought about the vibration that the trailer can put on the outdrive.  Some transom savers come with a spring inside, but those are NOT recommended for hydraulic/electric ram systems.  I also don't force the hydraulics super tight against the transom saver.
There are pro's and con's with ANY method.  I personally think the transom saver is the best option.  The big convincer for me was following a guy with a a big 200 Mercury one day and watching that motor flex his transom every time he hit a bump.  He was using the factory locking mechanism and it was shocking how much that motor flexed.

[RockyRaab2]

My boat came with a factory transom saver. I figure their engineers know more than most keyboard kommandos so I use it at all times when trailering - and remove it when the rig is parked.

[submoa]

If you are trolling definitely have the big motor down as it is a rudder for you when you need it and if a quick correction needs to happen with your big motor it's just a key turn away. If you don't have a bow motor keeping you straight the kicker will need help from the big motor from time to time. I generally troll at a precise speed so once I get it with the kicker I don't like to make changes to the throttle.

[Bduck]

My boat came with a factory transom saver. I figure their engineers know more than most keyboard kommandos so I use it at all times when trailering - and remove it when the rig is parked.

My Yami F150 & kicker are not direct mount on the transom but instead to an offshore bracket. I'm curious what some have to say about a saver on this.

[PBH]

I keep my big motor down in the water.

I actually use my bow-mount electric trolling motor to troll slow for trout. I set it straight ahead, and then I steer with the steering wheel turning the big motor. It's just a big rudder.

At home, in my garage, I always put the motor down. If nothing else, it ensures that the water all drains out.

[MrShane]

Tip:
If your kicker pushes you faster than you like for finesse trolling and you don’t have an electric on front, leave big motor in gear/START it then put it in gear/THEN kill it. The non-rotating prop will slow you substantially.
If that is still not slow enough bury your kicker to the max or raise to max to reduce ‘efficiency’ of kicker.

[MACMAN]

I've shopped a lot for boats in years past and one thing that I've noticed a lot of is bent transoms.  This is due to trailering with the motor up with OR without using the factory locking feature. Trailering like this literally bends the transom every time you hit a bump.  What you seek is a TRANSOM SAVER device.  This cradles the lower unit of the big motor and the other end of the transom saver goes again the TRAILER. This takes ALL of the stress OFF of the transom. 

A kicker can be trailered in the DOWN position as they usually won't come near the ground but a transom saver can be used here also. Even smaller kickers can still put a lot of stress on a transom if trailered UP without a transom saver.

Outboards should always be stored DOWN when not in use to allow drainage to prevent freezing AND to prevent water from calcifying inside the compartments in the lower unit.  Replace a few impellers and you'll see what I mean.  Lots of white calcium buildup on the ones that people just leave up when not in use.  Also, as mentioned above...sometimes oil will flow and pool where it really shouldn't. This could easily foul your plugs every now and then and cause hard starting and poor running. 

Here is what I do, and I didn't invent this, it was taught to me by many people:

1.  Trailer with TRANSOM SAVERS always.  Do not use the factory support for trailering.  (Transom savers are cheap and easy to install by the way).
2.  When you get home from fishing, remove the transom savers, and lower the outboards all the way down to allow full drainage and leave the motor(s) down when in your driveway.  This prevents water from calcifying and freezing. You should also BUMP the motors over, all the way down, when you take the boat out of the lake to remove the water from the impeller compartments. (for the same reasons as stated above).  Also, with the motor down, it keeps the oils from going where they should be going and settling as mentioned above.  It's just good practice to leave the motors down when not in use.

On the water, big motor can be up or down when using the little motor for trolling, doesn't matter.  I think it steers better with the big motor down.  At the same time...make sure the little motor is UP when using the big motor...leaving it down WILL bend the transom or rip off the motor when under way with the big motor!  (I've seen this happen!)

Next time you are driving down the freeway, start noticing boats on trailers with outboards.  Most WILL already have transom savers installed and you won't see any "bouncing" of the motor flexing the transom.  But look around for someone who doesn't have a transom saver and notice how much the transom flexes when they hit a bump.  Especially bigger motors like 150's or above. It will shock you.

Transom failures are one of the most common causes of boats needing to be "retired".  And the biggest stress to the transom is NOT when the boat is being used on the water, it's when the boat is being trailered.

DISCLAIMER:  The above is my opinion only.  Your mileage may vary!   I've also run into people who advise AGAINST using the transom savers.  So you will need to do research and decide for yourself.  I also thought about the vibration that the trailer can put on the outdrive.  Some transom savers come with a spring inside, but those are NOT recommended for hydraulic/electric ram systems.  I also don't force the hydraulics super tight against the transom saver.
There are pro's and con's with ANY method.  I personally think the transom saver is the best option.  The big convincer for me was following a guy with a a big 200 Mercury one day and watching that motor flex his transom every time he hit a bump.  He was using the factory locking mechanism and it was shocking how much that motor flexed.

So I took the Dealers “word” that both Mercury and Crestliner now recommend using a ram block instead of transom saver. Do you actually know what the manufacturer recommendations are?  I would really hate to create an issue that is easily avoidable. I tried to get ahold of crestliner, no luck. Like I said, my old boat I used a transom saver for 20 years with no issue. I would think the dealer would steer me in the right direction, but with what I had to pay for this boat, I really don’t want to screw it up. I have a 2021 1950 super hawk with a 200 xl merc and a 9.9. Let me know if you have actual manufacturers recommendations. Thanks

[MrShane]

You got lucky running a transom saver for 20 yrs with no problems.
Look up the horror stories of those not so lucky.
If you go to the Merc manual that came with your motor it should have the recommendation.
At least mine did.
Sounds like an awesome combination and good luck!

[Bduck]

So I took the Dealers “word” that both Mercury and Crestliner now recommend using a ram block instead of transom saver. 

I was awaiting for this one. The ram block is like a shock absorber taking the hard bounce that can occur with boats trailering down the road. I've been using this with my current boat since buying the boat.

[MSM1970]

This is on Mercurys web site,

https://www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/dock...e-inspired

[MrShane]

Interesting, thank you.
I see by the date Mercury published that four years after I ordered my boat.

[MSM1970]

Interesting, thank you.
I see by the date Mercury published that four years after I ordered my boat.

Not to say one way or the other is better or worse,  But here is a that anyone can do,  remember when doing anything  guy always wants a warm fuzzy feeling about stuff, 

Grab your skeg push up and down, if it moves Imagine how much it is moving doing 70, it goes by the same principals as if you have a board sticking out the back of you truck bed bouncing up and down,  laws of physics and leverage. 

You as a boat owner have to make the best decision with the most information available,  To get the warm fuzzy feeling about your boat. I know we have invested a lot of time and money, always want to do the best for our boats.,