Garmin Reactor 40 Autopilot Help

[FishfulThinkin]

Is anyone using the Garmin Autopilot on their kicker? I'm in the market for a new boat and I want to know more about the Reactor 40 before I buy. I'm having a hard time finding a dealer or someone here in Utah who knows about the Garmin Autopilot. I'd like to know more about the pros and cons of a tiller kicker vs the cable controlled kicker with this system? Do you have to remove the rod from the big motor every time you use the autopilot? Which kicker would be better with the Garmin? Did you install yourself or is there a qualified installer in Utah? I troll a fair amount and sometimes my batteries don't last on my electric so I'm looking for options. I hear the Ulterra motor takes even more power so the trolling time is diminished. I even thought of just using a Minnkota ipilot and adding a second set of batteries with a switch to extend time on the water? Has anyone tried this? Any ideas on the best way to be able to troll all day into a breeze without manual steering would be appreciated!

[Paddler]

Is anyone using the Garmin Autopilot on their kicker? I'm in the market for a new boat and I want to know more about the Reactor 40 before I buy. I'm having a hard time finding a dealer or someone here in Utah who knows about the Garmin Autopilot. I'd like to know more about the pros and cons of a tiller kicker vs the cable controlled kicker with this system? Do you have to remove the rod from the big motor every time you use the autopilot? Which kicker would be better with the Garmin? Did you install yourself or is there a qualified installer in Utah? I troll a fair amount and sometimes my batteries don't last on my electric so I'm looking for options. I hear the Ulterra motor takes even more power so the trolling time is diminished. I even thought of just using a Minnkota ipilot and adding a second set of batteries with a switch to extend time on the water? Has anyone tried this? Any ideas on the best way to be able to troll all day into a breeze without manual steering would be appreciated!

You might call Joe at BOE Marine about your AP.  I think most guys put an AP on their main and use a tie rod to the kicker.

You can also run your main or kicker in neutral to keep your batteries up while trolling with your electric.  Or you can go with a single main without a kicker like I do.  I made a drift sock setup to slow me down to kokanee speed.  It takes a couple of minutes to deploy but works okay.

You won't be able to troll directly into the wind with a kicker.  Once the bow gets even a little bit off of directly into it, it will go crazy trying to maintain course.  You can troll quartering into the wind, tacking 45* to port for a while, then tacking back 45* to starboard.  Going downwind or crosswind isn't a problem.

[BearLakeFishGuy]

Why not go with a wireless "remote troll" to steer your kicker, if you don't like the bar between the main motor and your kicker? A lot cheaper than autopilot. As someone already said, put the autopilot on your main motor and then connect the kicker by a rod. The only issue is you'll need to make sure your autopilot is wired so it will be on while your main motor is "off". Not even sure if that is a possibility??

[Redrebel]

Is anyone using the Garmin Autopilot on their kicker? I'm in the market for a new boat and I want to know more about the Reactor 40 before I buy. I'm having a hard time finding a dealer or someone here in Utah who knows about the Garmin Autopilot. I'd like to know more about the pros and cons of a tiller kicker vs the cable controlled kicker with this system? Do you have to remove the rod from the big motor every time you use the autopilot? Which kicker would be better with the Garmin? Did you install yourself or is there a qualified installer in Utah? I troll a fair amount and sometimes my batteries don't last on my electric so I'm looking for options. I hear the Ulterra motor takes even more power so the trolling time is diminished. I even thought of just using a Minnkota ipilot and adding a second set of batteries with a switch to extend time on the water? Has anyone tried this? Any ideas on the best way to be able to troll all day into a breeze without manual steering would be appreciated!

I recently upgraded to an ulterra with 3 lithium batteries. A 15 amp sequential charger. I haven’t dropped below 70 percent on my batteries trolling all day. The setup isn’t cheap or light. But I did cut some battery weight. Has drift mode to keep you on Course in the wind. Autopilot is everything I need.

[2knots]

I have the Reactor 40, had the TR-1 before and had to switch to the 40 after the TR-1 went south. Yes you need to remove the the steering rod to the main motor from the kicker to use the auto pilot. I have a Yamaha 9.9 for my kicker but when you order you specify what kicker you have and get the conversion parts for your motor. As stated above if the wind is blowing hard I have to use my bow mounted electric to steer. I did the install myself and it was pretty easy. I could probably meet you at Willard sometime if you want to see how it works

[dubob]

Is anyone using the Garmin Autopilot on their kicker? I'm in the market for a new boat and I want to know more about the Reactor 40 before I buy. I'm having a hard time finding a dealer or someone here in Utah who knows about the Garmin Autopilot. I'd like to know more about the pros and cons of a tiller kicker vs the cable controlled kicker with this system? Do you have to remove the rod from the big motor every time you use the autopilot? Which kicker would be better with the Garmin? Did you install yourself or is there a qualified installer in Utah? I troll a fair amount and sometimes my batteries don't last on my electric so I'm looking for options. I hear the Ulterra motor takes even more power so the trolling time is diminished. I even thought of just using a Minnkota ipilot and adding a second set of batteries with a switch to extend time on the water? Has anyone tried this? Any ideas on the best way to be able to troll all day into a breeze without manual steering would be appreciated!

I have not used my 9.9hp kicker for steering in about 6 or 7 years.  The connecting rod between main and kicker has never been disconnected in my last 2 boats.  I push straight ahead with the kicker and steer up front with the electric.  I have only depleted my electric batteries twice in the last 10 years.  My electric is 24 volts and I use 2 Delco AGMs to run it.  I do use an iTroll to control the speed of the kicker with much greater efficiency.  I'm told that the newer lithium options are much better than AGMs in both life and day-use longevity.  But as in almost every other facet of life, you get what you pay for.  Lithium batteries that cost under $800 are very likely to be junk in short order.  I would recommend you give great consideration to spending your money on lithium batteries and steer your boat with the electric up front and just forget about all the steering options for your kicker.  But that's just me.  Best of luck on whatever you decide and tight lines always.

[BYUHunter]

I too lock my 15 hp EFI kicker straight forward, and steer/fine tune my speed with a 36v Minnkota Terrova connected to a 36v 100 AH Lithium battery.

The motor-mounted autopilots are expensive and struggle to compensate for stronger winds at trolling speeds, whereas a bow mount will force the boat in whatever direction you want it to go.

The lithium batteries are the only way to go, IMO. I spent three windy days fishing at Fish Lake/Otter Creek earlier this spring, and had 40% battery left by the time I got home. Lead Acid or AGM batteries could not do that - I know from experience.

The LiTime batteries are fairly well thought of in terms of a budget lithium. Don't bother with the 2x overpriced Dakota's.