Casting a Bait Casting Reel

[daymere]

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A bait casting reel does many fishing tasks better than other kinds of reels, and they are the standard in bass fishing. When you first get one they can be intimidating but you can learn to fish one with a little time and effort.

First, you need to get a good reel. There is no need to spend big bucks on one, but a real cheap reel will cause problems. Stick with brand names like Ambaseur, Bass Pro Shops, Shimano or Diawai. Get a mid range priced reel to start. My favorite is the Ambaseur 5500 series. They have served me well.

Spool up your reel with monofilament line in fairly heavy test - 14 to 20 - even if you plan on fishing with lighter line. Heavier line is easier to learn to cast, and easier to pick out those unavoidable backlashes. Don' fill the spool on the reel, start with half a spool or less. The more line on the spool the heavier the spool and the faster and longer it will spin. Spinning too long is what causes backlashes, so start with less line.

The most important part of casting a bait caster is a smart thumb. Your thumb rides on the spool of line and controls it, so you must educate your thumb. You can do this while watching TV. Tie on a fairly heavy weight - a nut or 1 ounce sinker, and sit down. Loosen up the spool control until the weight drops freely, and use your thumb to stop it just before it hits the floor. Do this over and over until get the feel for feathering the spool with your thumb and stopping the weight just before it reaches the floor [size 2] [/size]

When you are ready to learn to cast, tie on a practice plug or sinker - half ounce is about right. Tighten the freespool control until the weight stops when it hits the floor and the reel stops spinning. This will be too tight for normal casting but helps you learn.

Take your outfit out and make a short lob type cast. Swing your whole arm, don't try to snap the rod tip with your wrist. The reason for casting like this to start is you want the spool to start spinning slowly and evenly. A lob cast will do this. A snap cast will make the spool start spinning fast from the beginning, almost guaranteeing a backlash.

Keep casting like this, making longer and longer cast. Gradually loosen up the freespool control until you have to stop the spool with your thumb, just like you practiced. Once you get confident in using a heavy weight, try lighter weights and learn different ways to cast.

A tip from Mac who visits the forum: "[size 2]The reel should be standing on end when each cast is ending. That is to say, that your arm and wrist should rotate a quarter turn so that the back of your thumb faces across your chest at the end. Seems to help in preventing backlashes, but I'll be darned if I know why."[/size]

That is a good tip. Rotating the reel as you cast will help it spin more smoothly. The reel should be vertical, with the handle facing up, at the end of the cast. This, like other tips here, takes some practice.

Everyone will get backlashes at times. Don't let them discourage you. Keep practicing and you will find out why the bait casting reel is so popular.
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[DrownedDesertRat]

I just can't seem to picture that last tip. Got a drawing you can post?

I find that most of my backlashes come when I try to really throw the lure out far. It even backlashes before the lure gets near the water! Need to do a little bit of tightening.

You know what would be a good article to post on here? How to get the birds nests out after casting.
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[JapanRon]

Hi there daymere,

Nice post. Although my freshwater gear is first and foremost fly and spinning second, my outfits of choice for saltwater is the bait-casting reel. In the salt, the bait-casting reel is often referred to as a 'conventional' reel here on the West Coast.

Although 'bait' really includes lures, I tend to see bait casting reels in saltwater as reels that are specifically for casting 'live' bait. Of course, the optimum live bait and or reel used to cast iron (metal jigs) does not have or has had the level wind mechanism removed.

Bait-casters will bring in fish quicker. They do not become entangled with people or surroundings as easily as spinning gear either. In my opinion.

JapanRon
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[Powermaker]

[size 2] [font "comic sans ms"] Thanks for the info, daymere. It sounds so flippin' easy when you put it in writing. LOL

[size 2] [font "comic sans ms"] David
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[tubeN2]

There are always some newbies on board that can make any reel work just like a weaving machine. No matter how or where they cast, they can most likely entangle as many as 10 anglers at one time.[pirate]
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[daymere]

[#800000]Step 1

Casting with an overhead, whether a surf reel or a baitcaster begins the same way - first you lock the spool with your thumb, then disengage the gear train. Some baitcasters use a full width thumb bar. Others, like the one shown above, have a slide button on one side of the spool.[/#800000] [#800000]Step 2

With the gear train disengaged, the only thing preventing the spool revolving and feeding line out is that your thumb is holding it firmly. Make the casting stroke and at the release point, lift your thumb a little, maintaining a light, feathering contact with the revolving spool to prevent overruns.[/#800000]

[#800000]Step 3

The surf reel pictured above uses the flip type of lever to disengage the drive gears, so the spool is first locked with the left thumb while the gear lever is flipped back, then the right thumb takes over for the cast as before. Left handed casters will need to allow for that fact.[/#800000] [#800000]Step 4

Most surf reels are mounted on two-handed rods and so the non-reel hand once again is used as the pivot point for the cast.[/#800000]

[#800000]Step 5

The above shows just a minor overrun, on how line peels from the spool and begins to bunch up if not controlled. Do not be disheartened by initial problems mastering overhead reels. The skills involved will eventuate with time and practice, and overhead reels are definely great to use, when used with ease and confidence.[/#800000]
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[DrownedDesertRat]

That used to be me, bro! And I still get flack from my fishin' buddy for it 3 years later! Hehehe.
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[JapanRon]

Hi there DrownedDesertRat,

Knew about this one from long ago. Recently say a bass pro demonstrate it too. One thing though. Stiffer lines love this technique while softer or more supple lines tend to be harder to untangle. Some of the braided lines are ok but and this is a big but.... if the braided line was jerked and knotted, you're gonna have a 'hard row to hoe' as we Okies say.

After getting a birdsnest, stay calm. Do the following for most birdsnests.

1) Lay as much of your thumb across the spool as you can and apply lots of pressure on the line on the spool.

2) Turn the handle at half turns for 6 or seven full rotations of the spool.

3) Release your thumb from the spool and put the spool out of gear.

4) gently I mean slowly and gently pull line from the spool 'from the front' of the reel (closest to the tiptop).

5) Pull the line off the spool parallel to the rod. You should gain some line out of the birdsnest. Continue pulling until you are again by the tangle then repeat the above steps. Be patient as it may take 3 or 4 cycles.

6) Repeat the steps 1~5 until all the birdsnest is gone.

What is happening is that line is being seated back on the spool and aligned the wraps on the spool side by side.

With practice.... you'll get 8 tangles out of 10 out.

Try it .....it works,

JapanRon
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[Bassmaster-ND]

JapanRon's tip is on the money. That has saved me alot of time[].
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