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I scored a StrikeMaster Magnum III plus 10" premo condition yesterday. I was able to talk the man down to $200. I picked it up in Montpelier so ran up to the Reservoir and gave it a try. It has only one blade and seemed a little slower than my friends older two blade model. Hopefully this will turn out to be a good deal.
I know this is supposed to be a big NONO, but has anyone tried patching a Transducer cable? I managed to get mine mangled yesterday ... bummer. It is for a Raytheon L365
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I ran a 8" Mag III for over 15 years. I sold it 2 or 3 years ago (still running strong) after buying my 10" Lazer Mag Xpress. I hope yours gives you as any years of pleasure..
As far as the repair on the transducer cable,, I have done it..
In my case,, After opening the cable otter shell for about a foot to allowing any moisture to dry within the cable I discovered the grounding wire to be in rough shape. The ground wire as No otter shell and due to contact with water had rotted off loosing ground. I replaced the damaged portion of wire once the cable was as close to completely dry inside as I could get it. I then used eletrical tape to tightly re-rap the damaged area followed by a good heavy coating of 100% Silicone. The patch lasted two years. I replaced the ducer 2 weeks ago after 2 years of wondeing if the ducer would still be working when I got to the pond.
Good Luck..
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[cool][#0000ff]Been there, done that. It used to be a lot simpler, when there were fewer wires inside the cable, but here is a link to a post I put up on the tubing board a while back. I figured someone else might someday wanna know how I did it, so I took pictures (Surprise!!!!)[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=199901;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread"]LINK TO POST[/url][/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Hope this helps.[/#0000ff]
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Thanks fellers . I have no problem with the splice, I just thought the transducer cable might be length calibrated for resistance in the wire. The splice will add resistance as well. I have worked with electronic equipment in the past where this was the case and any change in cables or wire length made everything loose accuracy. I had erroneously concluded this must be why the "NoNo" on splicing or cutting length out of the cable as specified in the installation manuals.
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since most wires are wrapped in a neoprene casing along the length of the cord, I would think you could use some of that wader repair snot to reseal the cord as well, maybe then wrap with tape or even a good tire/tube patch up with the glue an all you can get the rubber in sheets from some of the auto parts stores maybe even a home depot kinda deal. i would likley look at teh wader goo first, i think its cheap and readily avail. to toss into the tool box too for quick fixes to repair knicks and dings in wires, waders, gloves, coats...anything that is a neoprene type material...neoprene is made of rubber and fiberglass bonded in a strange and scientific manner that escapes me at the moment, but thats how they make it with those two base items...i am sure there is more fillers and epoxy kinda stuff in there but it may be a fast fix...
as far as drying out the water/moisture from the affected area...take it inside and lay it on a heat vent for a day or two or bust out with the misses hair dryer in the bathroom and stay warm while you mend your broken duce.
if i think of anything else ill post it up...i think my pop has some info on slicing and patching wires and all for water tight seals that are a permanent fix untill you need to feex again....
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Patched up the Transducer cable and everything was good. It read the same as Kents fancy color machine to the tenth of a foot so I guess the splice is fine.
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]lets call him Bearclaw[
], that some how the transducer cable fell out the back of his boat and was drug all the way to the lake, anyway he spliced it and i havent heard him complain about it since[sly]