01-16-2008, 08:57 PM
As most of us know, if you have a Diver that rises to the surface too fast, he doesn't have enough time to decrompress and will suffer from "the bends", a potentially fatal condition. This is caused by gases in the blood suddenly expanding. Same thing happens to fish, who use their air bladders (also called swim bladders) to maintain certain depths in the water, just like a submarine. Some fish, like Lake Trout, are capable of venting their swim bladders much better than other fish which lets them make more dramatic vertical movements. This gives them an edge when chasing bait fish. Other fish simply have a more primitive system and can't handle rapid ascent. If a fish can't release this gas fast enough, it's air bladder will swell, and it probably won't live if released, unable to get back down to depth.
Here's what interests me here. There is a technique some people do to release fish caught from depths that don't allow the fish to properly vent their airbladders on their own called "needling". Basically it involves using a needle inserted into the airbladder to release excess air for the fish, simple as that. Saltwater fish collectors who collect very expensive and rare fish for aquariums also use this technique, but usually do it while swimming up with the fish in a bag. There is also a product I just learned about from BFT member Mojo 1 in another post here that allows anglers to put their fish back down to the bottom of the water column where their swim bladders will automatically deflate and they'll swim off just like normal. How does everyone else feel?
Product that takes fish back to the bottom of the water column:
[url "http://www.sheltonproducts.com/SFD.html"][#000000][size 1]http://www.sheltonproducts.com/SFD.html[/size][/#000000][/url][size 1] [/size]
See this link for a diagram on a relieving air bladder on a Bass:
[url "http://www.aba-va.com/ABA-Virginia/airbladder.html"]http://www.aba-va.com/...inia/airbladder.html[/url]
[font "MS Sans Serif"][size 1]AIR BLADDER RELIEF _______________________________________________[/size][/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Though it is only my own theory, not proven scientific fact, I think fish caught in deep water are not the only ones that suffer air bladder expansion. When stressed I believe fish can inflate their air bladders like human adrenalin becomes increased upon stimulation. A fish can be determined to have an expanded air bladder when: the fish is trying to get deeper in the water but cannot, the fish is rolling over and over, or the fish is swimming in a nose-down position with tail elevated. Relieving the air bladder of these fish is controversial. It has not yet been fully studied, and even TP&W personnel differ on it's procedure. In some cases it won't be necessary if you treat with [#cc0033]Please Release Me[/#cc0033], and hold fish horizontally until it can hold itself up. Air bladder relief procedure is done only when it's obvious the fish will perish without one last effort to save it. TP&W has done no studies on the practice I use to hold fish upright, but in six years of fish care I have seen it help fish. If allowed to lay over in an unnatural position I firmly believe that fish will simply give up. We have had success with fish unable to hold themselves up by holding them in a normal position for 20 minutes to one hour, and in some cases relieving the air bladder.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]It's preferable, especially with the larger bass of five pounds or more, to have someone hold the fish for you on a smooth wet surface or place the fish in a large landing net just under the surface of the water in the hospital tank. If this procedure is done in your boat do not hold fish on carpet, but place on wet weigh bag or other smooth surface. Place the fish's head on your left as this side presents the best location for the air bladder. It's best to have the person holding the fish "lip" it with their left hand and hold the wrist of the tail with their right hand. Small fish can be done by one person more easily than larger ones. Once the needle is inserted the fish must be held under water so you can see air bubbles escaping, preferably by the side of the boat rather than in the livewell.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A large biopsy or spinal tap needle is needed for this procedure, one that has an insert that can be removed to allow air to flow out. A single hollow needle will not work as it will become clogged with scales and skin immediately. Use a spinal needle no smaller than 18G31/2. Your veterinarian may be able to help you get these in an inexpensive disposable form, But, do not dispose of it after use, it's reusable. They simply cost a lot less than the ones vets or surgeons use. Your needle must be 16 to 20 gauge and at least two inches long. Spinal tap or biopsy needles are best, do not use anything else.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ THE PROCEDURE ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]You must push the needle under the skin, this is best done at an angle between scales. Back needle out until just the tip of the needle in under the skin, redirect needle straight into fish about half the length of the needle. Remove plunger and allow air bubbles to escape for a count of 8 to 10 seconds. Do not remove all air, this is important. Remove only a small amount of air, then wait and see if fish is better. You can always remove more if necessary. Allow fish to go free and observe it's behavior. If fish resumes normal swimming, all is well. If fish goes to bottom and simply lies there, do not worry, yet. It's usually just tired from trying to get down and needs some rest. If fish recovers in 30 minutes or so, hold for another 30 minutes then release into lake. You've given that fish the best chance for survival.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]PERSONAL NOTES ON FISH CARE
& AIR BLADDER RELIEF[/font] [font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]from Debra Dean[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Distinguishing air bladder inflation from livewell poisoning isn't easy. Fish appear to be doing the same things in some cases. With livewell poisoning and disorientation from being in the livewell for hours, fish will respond to being held in a correct position in fresh, oxygen saturated water until they can maintain balance for themselves. Fish that need air bladder relief show much more severe symptoms of distress.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]The main difference for the fish in need of air bladder relief will be the reactions of the fish. This fish will appear extremely stressed, rolling, or trying to get deeper in the water without being able to, or in some cases will be "finning" while lying on it's side. That is, the fins behind the gill plate are trying to move, but the fish is not in the correct position to swim. They are very vulnerable if left to lie in an unnatural position.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]My technique begins with observation of the fish. Once it has been placed in a treated hospital tank (Please release Me, non-iodized salt and pure oxygen) I allow it freedom of movement for about five minutes. If the fish begins to attempt to roll, swim nose-down, or cannot seem to gain balance I then hold the fish for a period of about 10 to 15 minutes in a position that would be correct for swimming. Sometimes they just need to rest and get revived from the oxygen and fresh water. Sometimes they are just disoriented from being in the livewell. If after 15 to 20 minutes fish is still struggling or lying on it's side, the air bladder relief procedure is done.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ RETROSPECT ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]I only know my "gut feelings" on some of these applications, and that a fish in this condition will surely die without something being done. My own experiences have been that I have used the techniques described herein with success inasmuch as I have treated numerous fish in the same manner during big bass events at Lake Fork. At least three of these fish are recognizable by marks and/or deformations of the body and I have seen them more than once. What I do may continue to be controversial, but until studies are done to show me otherwise I believe I have saved many bass that would have otherwise died. The question of delayed mortality is still an unknown entity, however my experiences at Fork gives me reason to believe that my procedures should be studied further by the department. The last known study of air bladder relief was done in 1992, more should be done again and in broad spectrum. TP&W has no data on fish needing air bladder relief that have been caught in less than 30 feet of water. Magnelia does have information on a weigh in kit used by some tournament directors. Contact him at 512-353-0072 for more information. Everything you learn about fish care enhances the chances of survival for tournament caught fish.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Both Steve Magnelia and David Campbell are respected biologists. My opinion of both these men is one of admiration. It should not be misconstrued that my fish care techniques may differ slightly from their own. I have used the knowledge I have gained from both to further educate myself on fish care. My position is such that I have the opportunity to try new ideas and am willing to do so in regards to the fact that with certainty some bass will die regardless of what's done to them or for them. Campbell told me years ago to go with my feelings and that is what I have done. I try new things because when you get to the point that some of these fish will most certainly die, it may be the only chance they have.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]If catch and release is important to you and you wish to believe you are truly practicing it then it's up to you to assist the fish in your care as much as possible. Such things as supersaturation with pure oxygen are now coming into question as anglers find new products for use in their livewells appearing on the market. But, oxygen doesn't have to be used in massive quantities to help fish. Smaller amounts are preferable at this time simply because oxygen poisoning is even worse than doing nothing to help the fish at all. Use of ice or any other product such as[#cc0033] Please Release Me [/#cc0033]must be done with moderation in mind, not overdose. Just because something is good you don't necessarily accomplish good by using more. Too few anglers realize that simply being out of the water is hard on fish. See how long you can hold your breathe, then figure how long bass must hold theirs when removed from water. Delayed mortality is the shame left behind as fish die days later, this too, can be corrected with just a little more care on the part of anglers. Common sense will help fish and help anglers truly practice catch and release.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]DIAGRAM & ADDITIONAL PROCEDURE NOTES[/font] [#004080][url "http://www.thefishermans-tips.com/diagram.htm"]VIEW DIAGRAM[/url][/#004080]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ TROUBLE SHOOTING ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Here's some questions that may arise at some point in your fish care.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. I inserted the needle just where indicated, but when I let out the plunger no air bubbles came out, what happened? What do I do?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. All fish are different, if you feel you hit the air bladder but no air comes out, try pulling the needle out just a half or quarter of an inch or so then watch for bubbles. The fish must be completely under water for you to see the bubbles. If no air comes after trying this, remove needle, count two scales back, and one down and reinsert needle and try again. Air bladders don't have to be exactly where diagrams show them to be, especially in winter when fish are colder, they seem to tighten up. Too, if the fish has not been allowed to relax a little and been treated with Catch & Release it's muscles won't allow freedom of air removal. Wait 15 minutes, try again. If you feel rib cage bones while inserting the needle stop immediately and move back to locate insertion point further down fish's body by a couple of scales, over and down.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. I did the procedure just as shown, but when I let go of the fish it just went down to the bottom and laid on it's side. Will it die?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. This reaction comes from either too much air being let out, or as in some cases the fish is simply exhausted from first being caught, then held in the livewell all day, then run across the lake, then handled through weigh in procedure. Allow fish to rest, but find a way to prop it up where it's not laying on it's side. A fish allowed to lay in an unnatural position for too long sometimes will just give up. Again, I can't stress the importance of not letting out too much air, the fish must have some air in it's bladder to assist it in remaining upright. Sometimes the fish was going to die anyway, much like CPR used on humans, "living" humans do not need CPR, only those who are not breathing, basically not alive. Only let out a small amount of air, you can't put back air removed, but you can always remove a little more if need be. Usually a count of eight to 10 seconds is enough to remove plenty of air to reduce pressure without it being too much so that it harms the fish.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. The fish started bleeding when I stuck the needle in it, will this cause the fish to die?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. No more than when you cut your finger, fish bleed when cut, or in this case having a needle stuck into their skin. Normally there won't be any if much blood during the procedure. But, sometimes there is, it usually isn't serious unless that blood is coming from an organ, which only happens if you miss the air bladder. Sometimes a scale or two will come off during the operation, but if you gently push in the needle from behind the scale even this won't occur.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]NOTE:[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Air bladder relief is like CPR. In CPR classes we are taught that the only person who needs CPR is a dead person. It is much the same with air bladder relief. Only fish that will die need have the procedure done for them. Fish in distress will die if it is not done for them.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]You will not save every fish that is distressed, that would be impossible, however, learning the procedure properly and performing it correctly, only when necessary, will save the lives of many fish that might otherwise have died.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]The only fish I do not try to save with these procedures are fish that have light pink gills, or have been mortally wounded in the gills by a hook, or those severely gut-hooked. The gill filaments are sensitive, but fish have survived with slightly torn gills, however gills lightening to pink from red signal death. A deeply hooked fish can be saved if the tissue and intestines have not been pulled out or damaged with the hook. Simply cut the line and remove the lure portion leaving the hook in place. The hook will eventually be discarded by the fish. There are ways to remove the hook without harming the fish, but this is a very tricky procedure and must be "seen" to be learned.[/font]
[signature]
Here's what interests me here. There is a technique some people do to release fish caught from depths that don't allow the fish to properly vent their airbladders on their own called "needling". Basically it involves using a needle inserted into the airbladder to release excess air for the fish, simple as that. Saltwater fish collectors who collect very expensive and rare fish for aquariums also use this technique, but usually do it while swimming up with the fish in a bag. There is also a product I just learned about from BFT member Mojo 1 in another post here that allows anglers to put their fish back down to the bottom of the water column where their swim bladders will automatically deflate and they'll swim off just like normal. How does everyone else feel?
Product that takes fish back to the bottom of the water column:
[url "http://www.sheltonproducts.com/SFD.html"][#000000][size 1]http://www.sheltonproducts.com/SFD.html[/size][/#000000][/url][size 1] [/size]
See this link for a diagram on a relieving air bladder on a Bass:
[url "http://www.aba-va.com/ABA-Virginia/airbladder.html"]http://www.aba-va.com/...inia/airbladder.html[/url]
[font "MS Sans Serif"][size 1]AIR BLADDER RELIEF _______________________________________________[/size][/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Though it is only my own theory, not proven scientific fact, I think fish caught in deep water are not the only ones that suffer air bladder expansion. When stressed I believe fish can inflate their air bladders like human adrenalin becomes increased upon stimulation. A fish can be determined to have an expanded air bladder when: the fish is trying to get deeper in the water but cannot, the fish is rolling over and over, or the fish is swimming in a nose-down position with tail elevated. Relieving the air bladder of these fish is controversial. It has not yet been fully studied, and even TP&W personnel differ on it's procedure. In some cases it won't be necessary if you treat with [#cc0033]Please Release Me[/#cc0033], and hold fish horizontally until it can hold itself up. Air bladder relief procedure is done only when it's obvious the fish will perish without one last effort to save it. TP&W has done no studies on the practice I use to hold fish upright, but in six years of fish care I have seen it help fish. If allowed to lay over in an unnatural position I firmly believe that fish will simply give up. We have had success with fish unable to hold themselves up by holding them in a normal position for 20 minutes to one hour, and in some cases relieving the air bladder.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]It's preferable, especially with the larger bass of five pounds or more, to have someone hold the fish for you on a smooth wet surface or place the fish in a large landing net just under the surface of the water in the hospital tank. If this procedure is done in your boat do not hold fish on carpet, but place on wet weigh bag or other smooth surface. Place the fish's head on your left as this side presents the best location for the air bladder. It's best to have the person holding the fish "lip" it with their left hand and hold the wrist of the tail with their right hand. Small fish can be done by one person more easily than larger ones. Once the needle is inserted the fish must be held under water so you can see air bubbles escaping, preferably by the side of the boat rather than in the livewell.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A large biopsy or spinal tap needle is needed for this procedure, one that has an insert that can be removed to allow air to flow out. A single hollow needle will not work as it will become clogged with scales and skin immediately. Use a spinal needle no smaller than 18G31/2. Your veterinarian may be able to help you get these in an inexpensive disposable form, But, do not dispose of it after use, it's reusable. They simply cost a lot less than the ones vets or surgeons use. Your needle must be 16 to 20 gauge and at least two inches long. Spinal tap or biopsy needles are best, do not use anything else.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ THE PROCEDURE ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]You must push the needle under the skin, this is best done at an angle between scales. Back needle out until just the tip of the needle in under the skin, redirect needle straight into fish about half the length of the needle. Remove plunger and allow air bubbles to escape for a count of 8 to 10 seconds. Do not remove all air, this is important. Remove only a small amount of air, then wait and see if fish is better. You can always remove more if necessary. Allow fish to go free and observe it's behavior. If fish resumes normal swimming, all is well. If fish goes to bottom and simply lies there, do not worry, yet. It's usually just tired from trying to get down and needs some rest. If fish recovers in 30 minutes or so, hold for another 30 minutes then release into lake. You've given that fish the best chance for survival.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]PERSONAL NOTES ON FISH CARE
& AIR BLADDER RELIEF[/font] [font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]from Debra Dean[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Distinguishing air bladder inflation from livewell poisoning isn't easy. Fish appear to be doing the same things in some cases. With livewell poisoning and disorientation from being in the livewell for hours, fish will respond to being held in a correct position in fresh, oxygen saturated water until they can maintain balance for themselves. Fish that need air bladder relief show much more severe symptoms of distress.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]The main difference for the fish in need of air bladder relief will be the reactions of the fish. This fish will appear extremely stressed, rolling, or trying to get deeper in the water without being able to, or in some cases will be "finning" while lying on it's side. That is, the fins behind the gill plate are trying to move, but the fish is not in the correct position to swim. They are very vulnerable if left to lie in an unnatural position.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]My technique begins with observation of the fish. Once it has been placed in a treated hospital tank (Please release Me, non-iodized salt and pure oxygen) I allow it freedom of movement for about five minutes. If the fish begins to attempt to roll, swim nose-down, or cannot seem to gain balance I then hold the fish for a period of about 10 to 15 minutes in a position that would be correct for swimming. Sometimes they just need to rest and get revived from the oxygen and fresh water. Sometimes they are just disoriented from being in the livewell. If after 15 to 20 minutes fish is still struggling or lying on it's side, the air bladder relief procedure is done.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ RETROSPECT ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]I only know my "gut feelings" on some of these applications, and that a fish in this condition will surely die without something being done. My own experiences have been that I have used the techniques described herein with success inasmuch as I have treated numerous fish in the same manner during big bass events at Lake Fork. At least three of these fish are recognizable by marks and/or deformations of the body and I have seen them more than once. What I do may continue to be controversial, but until studies are done to show me otherwise I believe I have saved many bass that would have otherwise died. The question of delayed mortality is still an unknown entity, however my experiences at Fork gives me reason to believe that my procedures should be studied further by the department. The last known study of air bladder relief was done in 1992, more should be done again and in broad spectrum. TP&W has no data on fish needing air bladder relief that have been caught in less than 30 feet of water. Magnelia does have information on a weigh in kit used by some tournament directors. Contact him at 512-353-0072 for more information. Everything you learn about fish care enhances the chances of survival for tournament caught fish.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Both Steve Magnelia and David Campbell are respected biologists. My opinion of both these men is one of admiration. It should not be misconstrued that my fish care techniques may differ slightly from their own. I have used the knowledge I have gained from both to further educate myself on fish care. My position is such that I have the opportunity to try new ideas and am willing to do so in regards to the fact that with certainty some bass will die regardless of what's done to them or for them. Campbell told me years ago to go with my feelings and that is what I have done. I try new things because when you get to the point that some of these fish will most certainly die, it may be the only chance they have.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]If catch and release is important to you and you wish to believe you are truly practicing it then it's up to you to assist the fish in your care as much as possible. Such things as supersaturation with pure oxygen are now coming into question as anglers find new products for use in their livewells appearing on the market. But, oxygen doesn't have to be used in massive quantities to help fish. Smaller amounts are preferable at this time simply because oxygen poisoning is even worse than doing nothing to help the fish at all. Use of ice or any other product such as[#cc0033] Please Release Me [/#cc0033]must be done with moderation in mind, not overdose. Just because something is good you don't necessarily accomplish good by using more. Too few anglers realize that simply being out of the water is hard on fish. See how long you can hold your breathe, then figure how long bass must hold theirs when removed from water. Delayed mortality is the shame left behind as fish die days later, this too, can be corrected with just a little more care on the part of anglers. Common sense will help fish and help anglers truly practice catch and release.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]DIAGRAM & ADDITIONAL PROCEDURE NOTES[/font] [#004080][url "http://www.thefishermans-tips.com/diagram.htm"]VIEW DIAGRAM[/url][/#004080]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]____________ TROUBLE SHOOTING ____________[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Here's some questions that may arise at some point in your fish care.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. I inserted the needle just where indicated, but when I let out the plunger no air bubbles came out, what happened? What do I do?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. All fish are different, if you feel you hit the air bladder but no air comes out, try pulling the needle out just a half or quarter of an inch or so then watch for bubbles. The fish must be completely under water for you to see the bubbles. If no air comes after trying this, remove needle, count two scales back, and one down and reinsert needle and try again. Air bladders don't have to be exactly where diagrams show them to be, especially in winter when fish are colder, they seem to tighten up. Too, if the fish has not been allowed to relax a little and been treated with Catch & Release it's muscles won't allow freedom of air removal. Wait 15 minutes, try again. If you feel rib cage bones while inserting the needle stop immediately and move back to locate insertion point further down fish's body by a couple of scales, over and down.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. I did the procedure just as shown, but when I let go of the fish it just went down to the bottom and laid on it's side. Will it die?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. This reaction comes from either too much air being let out, or as in some cases the fish is simply exhausted from first being caught, then held in the livewell all day, then run across the lake, then handled through weigh in procedure. Allow fish to rest, but find a way to prop it up where it's not laying on it's side. A fish allowed to lay in an unnatural position for too long sometimes will just give up. Again, I can't stress the importance of not letting out too much air, the fish must have some air in it's bladder to assist it in remaining upright. Sometimes the fish was going to die anyway, much like CPR used on humans, "living" humans do not need CPR, only those who are not breathing, basically not alive. Only let out a small amount of air, you can't put back air removed, but you can always remove a little more if need be. Usually a count of eight to 10 seconds is enough to remove plenty of air to reduce pressure without it being too much so that it harms the fish.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Q. The fish started bleeding when I stuck the needle in it, will this cause the fish to die?[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]A. No more than when you cut your finger, fish bleed when cut, or in this case having a needle stuck into their skin. Normally there won't be any if much blood during the procedure. But, sometimes there is, it usually isn't serious unless that blood is coming from an organ, which only happens if you miss the air bladder. Sometimes a scale or two will come off during the operation, but if you gently push in the needle from behind the scale even this won't occur.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]NOTE:[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]Air bladder relief is like CPR. In CPR classes we are taught that the only person who needs CPR is a dead person. It is much the same with air bladder relief. Only fish that will die need have the procedure done for them. Fish in distress will die if it is not done for them.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]You will not save every fish that is distressed, that would be impossible, however, learning the procedure properly and performing it correctly, only when necessary, will save the lives of many fish that might otherwise have died.[/font]
[font "MS Sans Serif, Helvetica, Arial"]The only fish I do not try to save with these procedures are fish that have light pink gills, or have been mortally wounded in the gills by a hook, or those severely gut-hooked. The gill filaments are sensitive, but fish have survived with slightly torn gills, however gills lightening to pink from red signal death. A deeply hooked fish can be saved if the tissue and intestines have not been pulled out or damaged with the hook. Simply cut the line and remove the lure portion leaving the hook in place. The hook will eventually be discarded by the fish. There are ways to remove the hook without harming the fish, but this is a very tricky procedure and must be "seen" to be learned.[/font]
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