04-13-2008, 02:16 AM
Being an incurable flyfisher I have never yet seen a float tube tricked out to do all I think it could do for my particular brand of fishing. So I decided to borrow ideas I've learned in the 3 years I've hung around this forum and redo my tube. Up to this time I just strapped on a Scotty rod holder, strapped on a Fishin' Buddy fishfinder mount, dropped in the finder, stuck my net behind the seat, and went for it, using only two rods. This has served me well but you can't hang around here without your brain being stimulated. So here is my latest incarnation. Nearly all of it is borrowed ideas from this forum. Any constructive suggestions are appreciated.
To begin, I really liked [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=220785;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread"]ATFishing's design[/url] (minus the bimini top) with the rod holders tilted back 45 degrees. Besides the rod position (which is needed for fly fishing) what appealed to me was the possibility of thinking outside the box. A pontoon boat is a rigid frame with pontoons attached. This would be a rigid frame with a float tube attached - a bit of a different viewpoint that puts the emphasis in the frame rather than the tube. (A regular arrangement is a float tube with a rod holder/tool holder attached.) Two ways of looking at the same thing, I know, but it helps me see the possible benefits of a rigid frame.
One of the things I've not liked about each rod holder I've made is that as the tube relaxes in the normal warming and cooling of the water, the rod holder tends to relax as well. The rods sway. A bungie helps but still it depends upon the way the rods lean given the current pressure of the tube. If the tube is attached to a rigid frame the rods will always be in the right position and will never sway. Same with other things attached to the frame.
I know that some of us are limited by the size of our automobiles so a frame may be out of the question for you. For me the frame/tube slides perfectly into the back of my Ford Ranger with the canopy on. I can keep the tube aired up with the frame firmly attached, slide it out when I arrive, top off the air, and I'm ready to go. No strapping or cinching.
I constructed the frame so that it will disassemble for storage if I'm tight on space. The back crossbar is held by a bolt on either side. Just remove the bolt and the frame comes apart into three pieces. (Not sure how that will work once I have some miles on the thing. It might loosen up a bit.) With the frame disassembled, the tube can be deflated and I'm no worse off space wise. With the frame assembled, just drop it on top of the tube, hook up the four side clips to the d-rings, string and stretch the bungies, and the frame holds tightly to the tube. Rigid. Doesn't move at all.
To me, the little space taken up by the cross bar is worth giving up for the benefit of the rigid nature of the frame. (Oh, and yes, it's a little harder to inflate the seat with the frame attached. But if I keep it mostly inflated it isn't difficult.)
Three other things to point out. First is the black 3 inch pipe held on the side by three hose clamps. Perfect for the Fishin' Buddy finder. Second is the "drop slot" design of the flyrod holder tubes. Slide in the butt of the rod with the reel attached, rotate it into the slot, and like a bolt action rifle, it's locked and loaded. (Sand them smooth so they don't eat up the cork handle.) Gravity keeps it there. I shaped the slot with a Dremel tool and one of the optional cutters available. I included a picture below. Cuts PVC like butter and allows fast and easy cutting/shaping. The third is the net holder, which is the "T" attachment on the back of the side with the rods. Net just slips into the notch. It is offset so the net doesn't tangle with the rods.
The rigid apron is still in the experimental stage. The greenish blue one matches the tube's color, but is a bit too large. I'd rather not cut it down because I usually do a butcher job on it. The smaller black one works fine but could be a tad bigger. I'll keep looking until I find one that is just right. Thanks Tubedude, for the PVC tube/bungie idea. Works great.
[cool]So, I'm ready to fish again. In fact, I've already taken it to our local city lake and caught some stocker trout - which I ate. Yum. So I know it works.
z~
[signature]
To begin, I really liked [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=220785;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread"]ATFishing's design[/url] (minus the bimini top) with the rod holders tilted back 45 degrees. Besides the rod position (which is needed for fly fishing) what appealed to me was the possibility of thinking outside the box. A pontoon boat is a rigid frame with pontoons attached. This would be a rigid frame with a float tube attached - a bit of a different viewpoint that puts the emphasis in the frame rather than the tube. (A regular arrangement is a float tube with a rod holder/tool holder attached.) Two ways of looking at the same thing, I know, but it helps me see the possible benefits of a rigid frame.
One of the things I've not liked about each rod holder I've made is that as the tube relaxes in the normal warming and cooling of the water, the rod holder tends to relax as well. The rods sway. A bungie helps but still it depends upon the way the rods lean given the current pressure of the tube. If the tube is attached to a rigid frame the rods will always be in the right position and will never sway. Same with other things attached to the frame.
I know that some of us are limited by the size of our automobiles so a frame may be out of the question for you. For me the frame/tube slides perfectly into the back of my Ford Ranger with the canopy on. I can keep the tube aired up with the frame firmly attached, slide it out when I arrive, top off the air, and I'm ready to go. No strapping or cinching.
I constructed the frame so that it will disassemble for storage if I'm tight on space. The back crossbar is held by a bolt on either side. Just remove the bolt and the frame comes apart into three pieces. (Not sure how that will work once I have some miles on the thing. It might loosen up a bit.) With the frame disassembled, the tube can be deflated and I'm no worse off space wise. With the frame assembled, just drop it on top of the tube, hook up the four side clips to the d-rings, string and stretch the bungies, and the frame holds tightly to the tube. Rigid. Doesn't move at all.
To me, the little space taken up by the cross bar is worth giving up for the benefit of the rigid nature of the frame. (Oh, and yes, it's a little harder to inflate the seat with the frame attached. But if I keep it mostly inflated it isn't difficult.)
Three other things to point out. First is the black 3 inch pipe held on the side by three hose clamps. Perfect for the Fishin' Buddy finder. Second is the "drop slot" design of the flyrod holder tubes. Slide in the butt of the rod with the reel attached, rotate it into the slot, and like a bolt action rifle, it's locked and loaded. (Sand them smooth so they don't eat up the cork handle.) Gravity keeps it there. I shaped the slot with a Dremel tool and one of the optional cutters available. I included a picture below. Cuts PVC like butter and allows fast and easy cutting/shaping. The third is the net holder, which is the "T" attachment on the back of the side with the rods. Net just slips into the notch. It is offset so the net doesn't tangle with the rods.
The rigid apron is still in the experimental stage. The greenish blue one matches the tube's color, but is a bit too large. I'd rather not cut it down because I usually do a butcher job on it. The smaller black one works fine but could be a tad bigger. I'll keep looking until I find one that is just right. Thanks Tubedude, for the PVC tube/bungie idea. Works great.
[cool]So, I'm ready to fish again. In fact, I've already taken it to our local city lake and caught some stocker trout - which I ate. Yum. So I know it works.
z~
[signature]
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