Winterizing?

[bowhunter3]

I have an older outboard 9.9 horse outboard motor for my aluminum boat. I keep it in my outdoor storage closet. I just got the boat and motor this summer, so I have no idea if there is anything I need to do as the temperatures get colder and I will not be using my boat much, since the lakes will be freezing up.
Any info will be great, thanks
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[muskyhunter]

I will just start mine for a few seconds after i pull it out of the water and that gets most out of everywhere. Then store in the upright position. Jmop but i fish with mine year round and have never had an issue!
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[wiperhunter2]

I would also suggest you store it in the upright position. You could also fog the cylinders if you want to make sure. You can buy a good fogging oil at any marine store and all you need to do is pull your spark plugs and spray it in each cylinder. It will lightly coat the cyl walls with oil and prevent the rings from sticking. WH2
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[fairwayphilly]

I always like to change the lower unit oil in the fall as well. It needs done seasonally and if you do it in the fall it is cheap insurance incase you got a bad seal over the year and have a little water in the lower unit that can seperate and freeze. I run seafoam (fuel stabizer) in my fuel year round so I don't worry about treating fuel, but you should stabilize that as well
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[fsh4fun05]

I've got my boat up for the winter [frown] but maintenance is important. I'll take your advice and change the lower unit oil. As far as the gas goes I tried to run it as low as I could but there is still roughly five gallons or so. Where do you buy Seafoam and should I run it through the engine for a minute or just dump it in the tank?
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[muskyhunter]

it would be best to run it and get the additive into the carbs or injectors!
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[wiperhunter2]

Hey John, I also run Seafoam in my two cycle mixture all year round. You can buy Seafoam at Checker auto parts and I believe Napa auto also carries it. Yes, you should run it through your engine, dumping it in your tank will stabilize your fuel but will not keep varnish from forming in your carb or injector system. I use a oz. of seafoam per gal of gas but it won't hunt to use more. A lot of folks run another brand name called Stable(Sp?) but I don't think it is as good as Seafoam but that is just my opinion.
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[Kent]

[quote fairwayphilly]

I always like to change the lower unit oil in the fall as well. It needs done seasonally and if you do it in the fall it is cheap insurance incase you got a bad seal over the year and have a little water in the lower unit that can seperate and freeze.

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I usually do this every year and I wish that I would have done it this year -- when it really mattered![frown][mad] Anyone have a 90 to 115 Hp Mercury outboard for sale?
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[bowhunter3]

Thanks the advice everyone! All I need is for my motor to not work in the spring.
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[RILEYFISH]

I always add stabil to my fuel. Run my motor for a while to get it into the carbs and going good.

I also put my boat away with a full tank of fuel. This will help with not allowing any condensation which ends up as water in my fuel at the first of the season. By doing these things, I have never had any problems whatsoever with my boat when spring rolls around or even after a few months if the weather allowed me to get my boat on something during the winter months.

I have heard alot of good things about the seafoam but have never used it. Might have to try it sometime.
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[addicted2fishin]

I wholeheartedly agree with the full gas tank suggestion. Most people are worried about the condensation that builds up water in the tank. While the fuel separator (found on most I/O boats) helps with this, there is another BIG concern with condensation.

If you leave your boat outdoors between fishing seasons you will have a LOT of temperature fluctuations. This will bring with it quite a bit of condensation, then evaporation, then condensation again. Water is one thing. However, the evaporation can cause a really nasty residue buildup inside the tank on all surfaces above the fuel line. This appears as a white-ish powder and does not quickly dissolve into the fuel. It gets through your entire fuel system.

I had this happen to me and it ended up costing a LOT of money. I had to replace the fuel pickup from the tank, the ball valve at the top of the pickup, the entire fuel line, the fuel filter, the fuel pump, the lines from the pump to the carb, and have a major rebuild of the carburator. After all that was done I have had to replace the filter several times as it has plugged up from the residue still in the tank.

If possible, I would have just found a way to powerflush out the tank, but there is no drain at the bottom of the fuel tank and I couldn't find a good way to ensure all water was removed from the tank after the powerflush.

Several hundred dollars later and lesson learned. Keep the tank FULL when storing for any period of time at all!
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