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Need a patch kit
#1
Hello all,
Just killing some time here and going over my gear for the upcoming spring. I noticed that my patch kit for my Outcast Super Fat Cat has gone missing.
Anybody know of a place to get these and/or are they anything special? I checked with Outcast online and couldn't find anything listed.
Thanks and hope everyone has a great 2013!
Boz
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#2
I would say, have some Aquaseal and the Accelerator kit on hand. Maybe some nylon patches for the cover.
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2294

And if there is a rip here are some patches

http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=2268

Or you can order the kit from Outcast depending on which valve
http://www.outcastboats.com/outcast/prod...=10&id=151
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#3
[cool][#0000FF]For quick on the water repairs you can use the special sticky tape for urethane bladders.

[url "http://www.patchngo.com/shop.html"]PatchNGo[/url]

Good to keep some in your tube as well as somewhere in your regular fishing vehicle.
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#4
Aquaseal is the greatest stuff for a permanent fix, but can it be used on the fly, or to salvage a one day excursion? I've heard flexible electrical tape works immediately on bladders for small leaks in flat areas for a temporary fix. Does patch n go work for anything near seam leaks which are about the toughest area to get an adhesive grip for bladder types?

What to use for instant, temporary repair of bladderless where it's hard to get a grip, like the points?

Does anybody know if vinyl repair cement, which dries much more quickly, works? http://rhadhesives.com/hh-66-vinyl-cement.html

Pon
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#5
[cool][#0000FF]Good to have multiple options. I usually prefer the permanent and all-emcompassing fix of Aquaseal if I have the luxury of time for it to properly cure. But I have saved a few trips when my craft sustained a pinhole puncture from a hook, fish spine or even a cactus spine (when I lived in Arizona) by using the quick-fix tape. All ya gotta do is remove the bladder, clean the area around the hole with alcohol and apply the patch. Air it back up and hit the water.

Most of those tape patches hold up well. I still have some that are several years old. But I have also had them "let go". Probably improper cleaning or application. That's why I prefer the Aquaseal when I have the time for it to cure. I have never had one of those fixes fail. And I have used it on seams, triangle tears...you name it.

I doubt if I would trust the patch tape on a seam leak. Too much stress and uneven flexing. It is designed to cover small holes for fast repairs. Part of the effectiveness is that when the bladder is reinflated against the cover the pressure helps hold the patch in place as long as needed. But several successive inflations, uses and deflations can weaken the hold. It is not a heat weld or chemical bond. It is good, but not that good.

I have tried several different vinyl repair kits, with different vinyl cements. They work on pool toys and other low-pressure inflatables but only so-so on vinyl/PVC air bladders for float tubes. Some hold for a while. Others fail as soon as you air up your tube to the max after the repair. But, with technology marching on, we can only hope that someone will come up with something that will work for all the tubers and tooners with vinyl badders.

Have not had to address leaks in a bladderless craft. I know there are high-powered adhesives that will chemically weld attachments and patches onto them, but don't know anything about quick fixes.
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#6
On bladderless, Aquaseal. With the accelerator it can take a couple of hours. There is patches for the bladderless, but still need aquaseal. [Smile]

For quick patching there is UV Aquaseal. Not a durable as regular, but great for quick fixes.
http://www.sportsmanswarehouse.com/sport.../cat101548

I still have two rolls of the Urethane tape though....funny huh. This stuff welds to Urethane. Haven't had a bladder for a few years now.
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#7
Thanks, you guys are the best!

Wonder how to remove the quick patch or UV aquaseal when you get back from your excursion or if it's advisable. Then you can use the regular aquaseal, sit overnight, and have a permanent patch for the next day's excursion.

Cheers,

Pon
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#8
Hairdryer.
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#9
[quote pontoonman]Thanks, you guys are the best!

Wonder how to remove the quick patch or UV aquaseal when you get back from your excursion or if it's advisable. Then you can use the regular aquaseal, sit overnight, and have a permanent patch for the next day's excursion.

Cheers,

Pon[/quote]
Aquaseal is permanent.
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#10
Thanks, Major.

Yes, I see that the UV version indicates that regular, high strength aquaseal can go over the UV patch.

Pon

[quote mojorizing][quote pontoonman]Thanks, you guys are the best!

Wonder how to remove the quick patch or UV aquaseal when you get back from your excursion or if it's advisable. Then you can use the regular aquaseal, sit overnight, and have a permanent patch for the next day's excursion.

Cheers,

Pon[/quote]
Aquaseal is permanent.[/quote]
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#11
Heat will take it off. Done it several times
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#12
It is permanent, but as FG says, if you need to remove it for some reason, a hair dryer or heat gun can take it off.
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#13
[cool]Another fix for small leaks are the patches for bicycle tires. The ones that are already sticky. I have used them for repairing my bladders after getting "spined" by stripers.
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#14
That is interesting. Everything I read says that they do not work on Vinyl or Urethane. What do you have and how long do they last?
There are several articles about using Duct Tape on Vinyl though[Smile] And Aquaseal on Urethane.
Bladderless, Aquaseal.
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#15
[cool]I have a Caddis NavigatorIV. The patches I have used were from Park (bicycle tools) and one I got from REI called Scabs. Both have worked very well on small spine holes from striped bass dorsal fins. I even patched four holes in a neat row from one fish. The bladders have still held together after about a year. The patches have a strong adhesive and will stretch some with the tube. I don't know how they would do on large holes or tears.
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#16
Excuse me on this one, but googling your Navigator IV neglects to state what material the bladders are made of.
Caddis is known for using Rubber (tire material) for the bladders. Your boat being small but weighing in at 11 lbs has me wondering if this is the case, which would explain the tire patches.
I have been fortunate that over the many years and the different boats I have had I have only sustained one self imposed leak. TD has patched way more boats, so maybe he will pipe in
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#17
I have an older Caddis Navigator II and the bladders are vinyl. With the patch being sticky and the inflated bladder holding it against the outer cover, it should work for a while. But if you did a lot of complete deflations and reinflations, maybe with some rolling or folding of the boat, I wouldn't expect the patch to hold long.

It looks like a good temporary fix though for when you can't wait for aquaseal to set.


Looking up the Caddis tubes some of the bladders are urethane.
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#18
[#0000FF]Early model Caddis were inner tube bladders (butyl rubber). I patched a lot of those with bicycle tire patches. In recent years their bladders are all vinyl (PVC).

Special vinyl repair patches (with glue) will make acceptable repairs. But almost any sticky surface patch with some flex will make at least a temporary repair. If the sticky is fairly waterproof it will hold up under a few dunkings before permanent repairs are necessary...like duct tape or electricians tape. Part of the reason for that is that when the repaired bladder is compressed against the outside cover...under full inflation...it acts like a compression bandage over a wound. It simply keeps the air from leaking out. But when the tube is partially or completely deflated some temporary patches will come loose. But at least you can save a trip.

The urethane repair tape you have works fine on urethane bladders...and will make a temporary patch on vinyl...but it will not make a permanent vinyl repair.

As always, good old Aquaseal will make a good permanent repair on almost any bladder...or bladderless.
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#19
I've had 3 repairs on different tube bladders in the last 3 years. All were tiny tears at the seams, on the inflatable seat bottom of my ODC 420s, where the compression effect doesn't work. Since they were near the same area near one strap, I decided to Aquaseal the length of the seam on that side as a precaution. Maybe will help. These had all been through at least 30+ cycles of inflation/deflation, so I am thinking there is a fatigue factor in the bladder material. I keep the main pontoons, which are of the same material permanently inflated, and have never had a leak for them. So I'm wondering if most of you guys keep your frequent used craft permanently inflated, as I do year round. Maybe it's better not to go through the inflation/deflation cycles as far as leaks for vinyl bladder craft.

The seat bladders have air mattress type plugs which sometimes pop out upon impact with rocks at speed. Like when going down rapids. So I have rigged tiny bungee tiedowns to keep the plugs in place, and they work well, so far.

Yesterday (70's here) I discovered that 3 of the foam blocks can be squeezed into the bottom seat compartment that is intended for only 2. The ride is much better- higher, dryer, and almost as comfortable with very little flexing compared to the standard 2 blocks. So I will probably use these when I do ride the rapids from now on...

Pon
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#20
[cool][#0000FF]Vinyl bladders are subject to greater stretch and stress than thicker walled urethane. That might account for thinning and failure at major stress/wear points. Aquaseal should do the job for repairing and reinforcing...at least for a longer period of time.

Anybody who has used the foam seats for awhile will experience the "sagging syndrome". Slipping a piece of plexiglas or plywood between the foam and the lower side of the pocket will help strengthen it and reduce the sag. Also helps with the back section if you need more support. I use a piece of stiff plexiglas and it makes a world of difference in the rigidity. My back appreciates it.

By the way, I almost always partially deflate my tube for transport. I air it up before launching and then partially deflate to return home. Probably a hundred cycles during the year. Never a seam failure with the urethane bladders over several years' use.
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