Rod Terminology Questions

[Kayote]

While looking at new rods to purchase, I realized I had a couple questions on manufacturers terminology. Does anyone know the difference between an IM7 graphite rod and a 54 million modulus graphite rod?. Which is a better quality of graphite?. Also, which is better, Fuji Alconite guides or Fuji Hardloy guides?. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Good Fishing, Kayote
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[HFT]

Both terms are manufacturers marketing B.S.

neither mean a hole lot to you the end user. there are grades of graphite IM-6, IM-7,IM-8, the 54 million modulas refers to the amount of particals per area of rod.

More important to you is how it feels in your hand,sensativity you want,durability you need, so don't let the terms baffel you or impress you.
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[Kayote]

Do'H
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[mateo]

Do they make any out of kevlar? My wife has a tendency to break mine.
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[Matador]

Okay, so it is [size 1]marketing B.S. And I agree 100% that you should choose a fishing rod by how it feels to you. But is there any real practical difference in the different kinds of graphite? What are the advantages to each?[/size]

[size 1]m[/size]
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[DKSRenegade]

I have an ugly stick 9' 6wt that feels worse than a bamboo rod. I used to loan it to one of my sons when they broke their good rod. They learned to take better care of their own rods after using the ugly stick for an hour or two. James is right. The feel is very important.I also look for a lifetime warranty now. DKS
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[HFT]

there is differences between the Graphites IM-8 is more sensative but it is also more brittle while IM-6 is stronger but not as sensative,rods of IM-6 tend to be heavier and 8 lighter.

they do make rods with kevlar and Graphite.

Ugly stick- Fiberglass: old,old, ancient technology

now we are seeing a big influx of rods with Titanium in the mix
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[Matador]

Thank you.

m
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[hashbaz]

The 54 million modulus refers to Young's modulus also called the modulus of elasticity. Basically it is a measure of how flexible a material is. But the flexibility of a pole depends on a lot more than just this. So all this boils down to nothing; knowing the modulus doesn't tell you anything. The "54 million modulus" is probably from someone in marketing finding some scientific words to make their product sound cool.
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[HCD]

Go to Hooked and try false casting a few differrent kinds of rods. They have a reel with some "parking lot" line on it that will give you a feel for the "action" that is most comfortable for your type of cast. For me, anyway, that is how I buy my rods.

HCD
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[fishmagnet]

Yes, the different materials have different properties. Often you will see Graphite I, II, III, IV etc. Or IM6, IM7, IM8 ect. Basically as you go up the material has greater stiffness for the same amount of material. This means that a Graphite IV rod might be twice as stiff as a Graphite II rod made with the same design and amount of material. On the other side you can have the same action with half the material (therefore half the weight) by using IV instead of II. The problem is that the material is only one part of the equation. The design (taper, diameter, thickness of graphite, etc.) and even the components( e.g. style and weight of the guides) have just as much or more to do with the end result. That's why a company that brags about the great material they use doesn't mean they make the best rod or at least the best rod for you. Sometimes you can find a great rod that uses cheaper material but is well designed. Sometimes there is no substitute for the top of the line if you can afford it. It all adds up to a mind boggling combination of factors which is why the only way to choose is to try out as many rods as you can and do your research.

FM
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[Troll]

Yeah enough about rods, it's more about finding a rod thats good for you and how you like to fish, That is why most people who really like to fish have several rods.

Live bait: you want a rod that is soft, has a sort curve when under tension and releases it's energy slowly, this will cause the live bait stay on your hook and land softly in the water. In Fly rods this would be a dry fly rod, ment for landing the fly softly on the water.

Fiberglass is fine, Ugly Sticks come to mind.

Jigs: High modulos, max sensitivity, How sensitive? So sensitive you can feel the seperate rocks in 40' of water with a 3/8 oz jig. It can have a fast action but would bew better with a med action rod in case you tip with a piece of live bait.

Crank-baits: A nice fast action rod with backbone is best. The tip should be soft but the butt should be powerful and stiff, again something with a fairly high modulos.
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[fishmagnet]

Oh I don't think you can ever say enough or have enough rods for that matter. That's why I have at least 20 but I'd have to count to be sure. [shocked]

FM
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[TheJensenKid15]

I dont know anything about them scientific markups. All I know is that you definatly need difrent poles for difrent situations. You really dont wana fish blue gills with a huge catfish pole. I'd recomend a 6'6" graphite pole for jiging and lake fishing with bait, in a medium action. I like a nice flexable tip, but a strong but to it. This alows you to feel/see the bite, and also catch the fish if its big. For any kind of stream fishing, a nice 5'6" to 6' rod works best, with a medium to medium light action. Its hard to work a stream with a 7 foot walleye rod(I should know, since I've tried and failed many a times[]). I wouldn't put too much into the numbers, just get what feels good to you and what will serve your purpose best.
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[Kayote]

Thanks for everyones reply. My choices are as clear as mud now, LMAO. Guess I'll stick with what I know, Bass Pro Extreme rods. The reason I asked about the terminology is I'm looking for a new ocean jig stick, and I'm out of my realm of comfort on companies and options. I don't want to waste $200 on a new closet dust collector. Again, thanks to all for your insightful responses.

Good Fishing, Kayote
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[mustbblind]

i have different rods for different types of fishing but i do agree that the feel of a rod is important when ya go with your buddies try thier rods and see what the difference is then look at a purchase i own 8 rods that all have a varrying feel to them also noticed how each rod reacts in the area that is being fished (rocky bottom stiffer rods tend to be a lil more active when a fish hits than a rod with a fster tip jus my opinion but its all up to tou and how much ya want to spend.........
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[Troll]

Ahh, a new ocean jig stick. Are we talking 6oz Salars for yellowtail and tuna or 1oz bucktails for Calicos. There is a big difference here too.

In my salt water experiences (Baha, Cali., and Florida) rod sensitivity is not as important as fighting strength. When I am dancing 8oz diamond jigs for cod or Yellowtail a rod with a pretty stiff action 6 to 6 1/2 ft is my preference. When I'm flinging tinker macs at Tuna I want a longer rod with a softer tip so the bait doesn't fly off. When We are trolling for tuna I want a short, stiff stand-up rod, because presentation and feeling the bite are out of the equation.

I fish salt a fair amount for where I live, spending at least a week in SW Florida and two trips to the west coast for tuna every year.
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[Kayote]

These salt rods are for San Diego/Baja kayak excursions and a few albacore/yellowtail/yellowfin/bluefin excursions off SD and East Cape. I actually made my purchases this week. I got a Seeker BCSW708-7' (12-15-20) for my Calcutta 401 for the light jigs and iron and some live mac/anchovie/sardine dunking. And I just orderd a Seeker G-6480-8'CT (20-30-40) for my new Avet LX4-1 sweet blue left hand reel. The latter will be my 30 pound go to iron jig stick. It's sweet with cork tape handle. Funny thing with the big Seeker, you can go down to 12 pound and chunk 1/2 jigs or go 30 to 40 and toss 5 oz. ironmans/salas, etc. That Avet reel is so sweet it brings a tear to my eye, LMAO. I got it in anodized blue.

Good Ocean Fishing, Kayote

Avet LX4:1


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