Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Transom savers
#1
I have a 16' Lund w/40 Merc. Considering a transom saver but would like to hear from you all.
Thanks,
[signature]
Reply
#2
Get one. They are cheap and will keep the transom from cracking while supporting your bouncing motor over Utah's crappy roads.
[signature]
Reply
#3
We just bought a 17' Lund. Read lots of forums on this topic. General consensus was likely not needed, but they are cheap insurance, so why not.

I bought one off Amazon for $29 and it took maybe 20 min. to install (had to drill hole in trailer for bracket).

Maybe my imagination, but boat seems to bounce less when trailering.
[signature]
Reply
#4
definitely get on, I have a free one I found in lincoln harbor when it was low, it has crustations on it, it goes on a bottom roller, its in sp fork.
[signature]
               O.C.F.D.
[Image: download.jpg]
Reply
#5
I will not travel without one. Have one for my big motor and kicker also.
[signature]
Reply
#6
What brand dud you get, I agree that Lund seems to be mute.
[signature]
Reply
#7
This one fit fine. I don't have a bottom roller on trailer, so had to install clip, but not difficult.


[url "https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV3GT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV3GT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[inline Capture.JPG][/url]
[signature]
Reply
#8
Dont do it, too hard on your hydraulics and lower unit.
You do not want your LU basically 'connected' to your trailer, especially as those two components move independently of each other over dips, railroad tracks, potholes,etc.
[signature]
Reply
#9
http://m-ywedge.com/phone/index.html

We use these and love them!
[signature]
Reply
#10
Thank you for your generous offer, the boss (wife) said no thanks.
[signature]
Reply
#11
You thine utans roads are bad. We are in Indiana for 6 mo. Made the trip out last week pulling a 26' tailer. Only roads better than Utah were in Kansas. Indiana you literally have to dodge the holes going from lane to lane.
[signature]
Reply
#12
i use one on my trolling motor and i really think it's worth it . when i first got my remote troll i bent the main shaft on it from not supporting it .
[signature]
Reply
#13
[quote SBennett]Dont do it, too hard on your hydraulics and lower unit.
You do not want your LU basically 'connected' to your trailer, especially as those two components move independently of each other over dips, railroad tracks, potholes,etc.[/quote][font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000][size 3]I'm with Shane on this one. I don't use anything on either the main (150 four stroke) or the kicker (9.9 four stroke) on my boat. No need for them on a Thunder Jet and I'm surprised that muirco has anything on his boat. But hey, if it gives you peace of mind, then by all means, go for it.[/size][/#800000][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000][size 3]
[/size][/#800000][/font]
[font "Comic Sans MS"][#800000][size 3]That said, if you have any of the smaller tin boats, then it probably isn't a bad idea to take some of the stress off the transom. I never used one on my last boat (Tracker DeepV 16) and hauled it around Utah for 11 years with no problems what so ever.[/size][/#800000][/font]
[signature]
Bob Hicks, from Utah
I'm 81 years young and going as hard as I can for as long as I can.
"Free men do not ask permission to bear arms."
Reply
#14
Any motor without hydraulics can 'float' independently of your trailer movement and wont transfer road shock to your LU and transom.
[signature]
Reply
#15
I'm not understanding the point that the boat and the trailer are independent components.

If the boat is securely attached to the trailer, they should move as a single unit both vertically and horizontally (e.g., the distance between the bottom of the boat and the top of the trailer brace should not change as one drives over bumps).

In other words, since there is no give between the bunk and the trailer, and if the boat is well secured to the bunk, there should be no give between the boat and trailer.

I'm a newbie boat owner, so I'm sure I'm not understanding something.
[signature]
Reply
#16
I'm in the court of needing one. If you have ever gone around a corner and had your motor slam from on side to another, you would know why some boats need them. That was the reason that confirmed the need for a Transom saver(TS), at least on my boat, I sure can't speak for every boat out there. I even tried replacing my steering cable, thinking that would fix the problem but no go, even another main motor did not fix the problem. Has anyone actually had a problem with their hydraulics, that was cause by using a TS, or is this going from what you have heard from other people?
[signature]
Reply
#17
Put me down for using one on my main outboard (the kicker is light and I have it balanced so it puts minimal stress on the transom). I didn't use one on a prior boat and the added weight, on the transom, damaged it over time. I don't understand the moving independently comment, because my boat is strapped to the trailer and if they moved independently the strap would break. Perhaps they have a differently designed trailer than I have.
[signature]
Reply
#18
Follow any boat down a bad road and you will see what I mean. It may only be 1/8" but it is there.
Add in road vibrations,wash board roads,potholes,etc.
All of that is being directly transmitted in to the single most expensive component of your boat with a 'transom saver'
Ouch....
[signature]
Reply
#19
Without a transom saver it is being absorbed all by the transom, which in one case the cost to fix was more than my boat was worth. For me and my money I will go with the transom saver.
[signature]
Reply
#20
Been using the M-y Wedge on my 225 Yamaha 4 stroke (Heavy) for 10 years now and love it.

http://www.m-ywedge.com/
[signature]
Sunrise on the water
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)