Flashers for ice fishing

[TubeDude]

Although I gave up ice fishing a few years ago, I still make a lot of  stuff for fellow tanglers who do ice fish and can't live without my goodies.  So I try to keep up with the action and the changes in waters and conditions from year to year.  Have noticed some conversations about using "flashers" or attractors ahead of small lightweight jigs and thought I would post up a PDF file I put together on the subject. 

Over the years I have tried a lot of different things above my "bitty bites"...both to add weight and to provide flash and/or vibration to draw fish in from greater distances.  These have included small spoons...like Kastmasters and Pimples...along with Little Cleos and even spoons like Dardevles.  Most have worked to some extent. 

I also tried the popular "Hali" jigs...those spendy little lures from Finland with the little chains between the weight and the bare hook.  They work well for perch and crappies at times, but are prone to getting torn up by toothy trout and/or walleyes or pike.  So I started making my own "holy jigs" using fine wire instead of light chain.  The fish approved and I have never had a wire damaged or broken by large fish.  Nor have any of the other local anglers who have used these things. 

I have helped a few other guys learn to work with wire and to make their own weight and jig combos...like the Hali.  You don't need a fancy wire forming tool...just a pair of round nosed pliers for making the loops and a pair of light wire cutters.  See the pics in the attached PDF file.  Or...I will be glad to show anybody who wants to learn how to make them.

[obifishkenobi]

Thanks Pat, good read.

[jjannie]

Nice write up Pat, Thanks

[lovetofish]

Although I've given up icefishing, I think these different combinations would work well anytime.

[joatmon]

Thanks Pat, this adds another option that I need to try. I've experimented with "Michigan rigs" (bead head fly above a spoon) and "Great Lakes perch dropper rigs" (horizontal jig 2-1/4" below a spoon on mono) this winter, with decent success. I even caught a couple of doubles on the Michigan rig. I have several hali jigs and haven't even strung one on this year. I did buy a Lindy perch talker and have had really good success on panfish and largemouth bass using it.

I'm guessing the wire helps avoid tangling, so see that as one positive. Looks like your separation is 5 inches or so. Have you experimented with shorter and longer wires? Just wondering if it makes a difference, maybe for different species?

[TubeDude]

Thanks Pat, this adds another option that I need to try.  I've experimented with "Michigan rigs" (bead head fly above a spoon) and "Great Lakes perch dropper rigs" (horizontal jig 2-1/4" below a spoon on mono) this winter, with decent success.  I even caught a couple of doubles on the Michigan rig.  I have several hali jigs and haven't even strung one on this year.  I did buy a Lindy perch talker and have had really good success on panfish and largemouth bass using it.

I'm guessing the wire helps avoid tangling, so see that as one positive.  Looks like your separation is 5 inches or so.  Have you experimented with shorter and longer wires?  Just wondering if it makes a difference, maybe for different species?

Yes, I have experimented with both longer and shorter leaders.   And the shorter ones worked better than the longer ones.  If I am going to use a longer leader I will use mono or fluoro.  Yes, they can tangle, but so will the longer wire leaders.  The little chains on the Halis are pretty short.  And I started off using shorter wire leaders.  But I use light jigs rather than a plain hook so that helps with the straightening out process.  And through experimentation I think I have found that the 5-6 inch wires seemed to work best.  They are still close enough to benefit by the attractor above it, but far enough away to give the fish more of a feeling of security to bite it.  But on camera I have also watched aggressive fish smack the glow attractor above the baited jig a few times before getting down to business.  Silly fish.  Silly fishermen.

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Thanks Pat, this adds another option that I need to try.  I've experimented with "Michigan rigs" (bead head fly above a spoon) and "Great Lakes perch dropper rigs" (horizontal jig 2-1/4" below a spoon on mono) this winter, with decent success.  I even caught a couple of doubles on the Michigan rig.  I have several hali jigs and haven't even strung one on this year.  I did buy a Lindy perch talker and have had really good success on panfish and largemouth bass using it.

I'm guessing the wire helps avoid tangling, so see that as one positive.  Looks like your separation is 5 inches or so.  Have you experimented with shorter and longer wires?  Just wondering if it makes a difference, maybe for different species?

Reply #2.  It occurred to me that if you are into experimentation that you might like some info on "downsizing" with the flasher concept.  I have made reference to the fact that some fish go for smaller offerings later in the ice season.  So in addition to all the other stuff I have made and tried, I have some mini models.  One of these is the "wermz" line...of small painted body jigs (PBJs).  These can be the jig part of a "Holy Jig" setup.  The other option is to make those little things on regular hooks...attached directly to the wire.  I call them "holy tears".  They work.

 

[Gone Forever]

Although I gave up ice fishing a few years ago, I still make a lot of  stuff for fellow tanglers who do ice fish and can't live without my goodies.  So I try to keep up with the action and the changes in waters and conditions from year to year.  Have noticed some conversations about using "flashers" or attractors ahead of small lightweight jigs and thought I would post up a PDF file I put together on the subject. 

Over the years I have tried a lot of different things above my "bitty bites"...both to add weight and to provide flash and/or vibration to draw fish in from greater distances.  These have included small spoons...like Kastmasters and Pimples...along with Little Cleos and even spoons like Dardevles.  Most have worked to some extent. 

I also tried the popular "Hali" jigs...those spendy little lures from Finland with the little chains between the weight and the bare hook.  They work well for perch and crappies at times, but are prone to getting torn up by toothy trout and/or walleyes or pike.  So I started making my own "holy jigs" using fine wire instead of light chain.  The fish approved and I have never had a wire damaged or broken by large fish.  Nor have any of the other local anglers who have used these things. 

I have helped a few other guys learn to work with wire and to make their own weight and jig combos...like the Hali.  You don't need a fancy wire forming tool...just a pair of round nosed pliers for making the loops and a pair of light wire cutters.  See the pics in the attached PDF file.  Or...I will be glad to show anybody who wants to learn how to make them.

As always, Pat, thanks for all the well written advice on everything you comment on.

I have been doing some experimenting with flashers through the ice, not the kind you wrote about, but small thin flashers normally associated with trolling.
The first I tried was the "Lake Clear Wabbler".  I dropped it into the hole, down about 15' and it took off.  I flipped the bail and it snapped the 4lb test ice line.  The "Strawberry Wobbler" is another flasher I have used with success as a vertical presentation.  Not for pan fish, but trout seem attracted to them along with other large game fish.
There are distinct action differences in the spoons depending on weight and shape and some days one works and the other does not and visa versa as well as weather conditions affecting presentation.  On windy days the heavier flasher is easier to control.

[TubeDude]

As always, Pat, thanks for all the well written advice on everything you comment on.

I have been doing some experimenting with flashers through the ice, not the kind you wrote about, but small thin flashers normally associated with trolling.
The first I tried was the "Lake Clear Wabbler".  I dropped it into the hole, down about 15' and it took off.  I flipped the bail and it snapped the 4lb test ice line.  The "Strawberry Wobbler" is another flasher I have used with success as a vertical presentation.  Not for pan fish, but trout seem attracted to them along with other large game fish.
There are distinct action differences in the spoons depending on weight and shape and some days one works and the other does not and visa versa as well as weather conditions affecting presentation.  On windy days the heavier flasher is easier to control.

Thanks for the kindly comments.  I and a few other guys I know have also experimented with a lot of different weights/attractors/flashers under the ice.  Findings have been like yours...that larger and flashier options have worked best for troutkind.  Smaller stuff is better for panfish.  But almost anything will work for something...some of the time...unless you get really ridiculous.  (Forget trying to fish pop gear under the ice.) 

Have you ever tried reversing the position of the flasher and jig?  I had some small (1") weighty wobbling spoons that I experimented with...using them as a bottom sinker and then rigging my jig dropshot style a few inches above on the line.  There were trips when that was the hot ticket.  You could see fish come in from outside the sonar cone and check out the jiggled spoon...and then tip up and slurp in the smaller baited jig.  That rig is also good for the tactic of pounding the bottom to create a small mud cloud.

I also pour and paint some small lead jigging spoons...in 1/4 oz. and 3/8 oz.  I make them in a lot of colors...some with glow.  Ryno...over at Flaming Gorge...has used some of the white and red two-tone to catch kokes through the ice.  And being made of soft lead, you can put a curve bend in them to get some more fluttering action on the lift and drop.  I have done well with these just jigging them with a small treble or single hook...and bait.  But I have also used them both for inline "flashers" and to put on the end of my line with a plain hook or small jig rigged dropshot style above.



  

[RockyRaab2]

The main problem with Hali-style rigs or any rig with the hook dangling loosely below a weight is that you'd never feel an "up" bite. Crappie in particular are famous for mouthing a bait upwards - which is why crappie bite are often described as "really light"

[TubeDude]

The main problem with Hali-style rigs or any rig with the hook dangling loosely below a weight is that you'd never feel an "up" bite. Crappie in particular are famous for mouthing a bait upwards - which is why crappie bite are often described as "really light"

True enough.  But on most trips the ratio of "up bites" to detectable munches is fairly low.  If the fish are mostly acting skittish...or are otherwise biting so that their takes are hard to detect...then a different rig is in order. 

In truth, most of the time I fish the Hali-style rigs I am fishing for perch.  But even perch can be tough to catch if they are biting light...or upward.  That's why it pays to have good sonar or a camera...to see what is going on...and to adjust your tackle and techniques accordingly.