Favorite fly rod for the tube?

[fishmagnet]

I use mostly a 9' 5wt and a 9 1/2' 6wt. What do you guys use and has any one tried 10' or longer rods?

FM
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey, FM, you were not too specific on species, but I am gonna guess you were thinking about troutskis when you posted your question.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]I too favor a 9 foot for 5 or 6 for most trouting. I use full floating double taper, sink tip or a range of densities in sinking lines, depending on how deep I need to dredge. That same setup has also put me into a lot of crappies, bluegills, white bass, walleyes, largemouth and even a fair number of channel cats.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]If you wanna throw heavy streamers, buggers or hair bugs, you might want to add a 7 or 8 weight stick to your arsenal. The stouter rod is especially helpful if you are trying to cast in any kind of breeze.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I have had the opportunity to fish with (borrowed) 10 foot rods...a 5 weight and an 8. Based on the feel and control of the extra foot of rod, I plan to build a 5 or 6 weight 10 footer for myself. It is surprising how much better you can control the line with that little extra length on the rod. And, if you get a good light blank, the weight is not noticeably more.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]For larger rods and heavier lines, I don't think I would go over 9 feet from a tube. Well, maybe from a regular round boat, where you sit lower in the water. But, if you have a pontoon, or one of the newer designs in kickboats, Vboats or Uboats, you will sit higher in the water and the extra length is not nearly so crucial.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]That being said, I lost one of my alltime favorite rods and have considered replacing it. It was a 7 foot 3 weight toy that could punch out some surprising casts...even in a tube. It was a joy to fish all day without beating myself up, and every bluegill felt like a 10 pound brown.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I also have an 8 1/2 foot 6 weight that I built on an old super-thin boron blank several years ago. The action is a bit stiffer than I like, but it is great for nymphing. The sensitivity of the boron telegraphs the lightest tick.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I just recently bequeathed an old Fenwick HMG 9010 (9 ft. 10 weight) to TubeN2. I got it many years ago when graphite rods were just coming out. I used it to beat up a lot of salmon, steelhead and stripers in California and some big redfish in Louisiana. Since TubeN2 is a California boy, and enjoys waving a fairy wand from his FishCat, I elected to put it back into action...with someone who could get some good use out of it. I used to use heavy shooting heads with that puppy. It would beat you to death to wave a heavy line over your head all day.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Well, was that TOO MUCH INFORMATION?[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]By the way, what are some of your favorite patterns?[/size][/#0000ff]
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[EmuScud]

9' 5wgt; 9' 7wgt; and for panfish, 7 1/2' 3wgt
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[fishmagnet]

Sorry, I guess I should know to be more specific around here but yes I meant for trout.

I was just pondering the possibilities of using longer rods. Sage makes an 11' 6wt and several companies are coming out with "trout" weight two handed rods. I've seen guys do Spey casting demos that were quite impressive but I wonder how a long rod would work with the cast and retrieve routine using sinking lines. I think they would be good for throwing a lot of line but working it back out after stripping it all in might be a little cumbersome. I'd also like a 10' 5wt for nymphing and a 10' 7wt for Alaska but that's a topic for another board.

As for fly patterens I'm working on taking pics of some of the flies I've been tying. I'll post it when I can but right now the computer with the photo software on it isn't working well.

FM
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]I have also seen the Spey rods. I read about the big bamboo jobs they used to use over in Sweden on the big Atlantic salmon. I guess that if you had the strength and the technique that you could throw a lot of line a long ways with one.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]BUT...we are talking about float tubing here. In most cases you should not even have to worry about casting too much line. That's what the quiet approach and the "up close and personal" is all about. About the only time I have had to throw more than thirty or forty feet is when the fish are working shallow and you can't get in too close without spooking them.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]That two handed spey cast is for fishing flowing water. For the benefit of those who are unfamiliar with it, it is a two part roll cast. You use two hands on a long rod with an elongated front handle and make a sharp lift, to bring most of the line back up above you. Then you power the rod forward and down to pick the line up off the water and shoot it back upcurrent for another drift.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Only a terminal masochist would want to work all day throwing dry flies on long casts with a spey rod. Your rod arm would be dislocated before the day was over. But, if you get in the rhythm, using a well timed spey cast, you can work a lot of water effectively without over exerting yourself.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I haven't thrown any rod larger than 10 ft. I am 6'3" and 260 pounds of bad dude fisherguy. I probably have more power than the "average" fly flinger. While the 10 footer was nice for laying out a long controlled cast, I did feel the extra wind resistance and weight after a couple of hours.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800040][size 1]8½' 6wt 3 3/8oz with a sinking tip. Since the reservoirs or lakes don't have much movement the surface area gets a little bit too warm for the trout. Consequently I like to use a ST. With a tube you can get to a reasonable distance from your prey consequently there isn't a need to cast a lot of line. Wouldn't want to go anything less than 8' for sitting in a tube reduces the fulcrum. They say longer is better than shorter.[/size][/#800040]

[#800040][size 1][/size][/#800040]
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Dryrod, now you're gettin' scienterrific and teckical. [/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]What was it my old buddy Archie Meeties said? Something like "Give me a long enough lever and I can fulcrum the whole world."[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]This board is getting way too highbrow for us mere fisherfolk.[/size][/#0000ff]
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[fishmagnet]

That's why long rods are harder to cast and the fish seem to pull harder.....because the lever is longer.

I was thinking of overhead casting not Spey casting with the long rod. I don't think the Spey cast would work well with a sinking line.

FM
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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800080][size 2]I tend to do more of a side arm cast than a direct overhead. Works better for me from a tube. Plus not being totally proficient in the art of casting from a tube the last thing I would want to do is hook my tube in the butt I mean the bow. Orrrrr there is another method for launching a fly if you can figure out how to mount it on your tube.[/size][/#800080]

[#800080][size 2][/size][/#800080][size 2][/size]

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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800040][size 2]Here is quote from the Arizona Outdoorsman:[/size][/#800040]

[#800040][size 2]"[#800040]In situations when long casts are required, such as fishing large rivers, fishing from a float tube, or fishing from the shore, a longer rod is necessary. Longer rods also make mending your line a much easier task. This is true because the longer rods will allow you to hold more line off the water. For float tube fishing or deep wading, a 9’ rod is needed to cast effectively because of your low position in the water. Many float tubers even opt for longer rods in the 9’6” – 10’ lengths. The more line you can hold off and away from the water, the better you will be able to pick up line and cast". [/#800040][/size][/#800040]
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[fishmagnet]

Yep that's all true. The only down side is arm fatigue after casting all day. If I'm fishing dries I have a sweet casting 7 1/2' 4wt that I can cast for hours without feeling it at all.

You might be on to something with that sling shot.

FM
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[Dryrod]

[cool][#800040][size 2]Having a torn rotator cuff I find it much easier to cast side arm with my bait caster and spinning rods. With my fly rod I am probably more ¾ arm fly casting. One thing that I have to remember is that when I make a poor cast is think of tempo. Like in golf it is not how hard you swing but the smoothness of one's release. Make sense?[/size][/#800040]
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[TubeDude]

[cool][blue][size 1]Hey Dryrod, that slingshot looks suspiciously like a device for launching missiles at passing PWC. Funny.[/size][/blue]

[#0000ff][size 1]Got a good discussion going here. I think we have established that the long rods provide more length and leverage...but also require more strength and stamina to operate.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I never sneeze to be amazed at how many float tubers never consider that they do not need to make long casts...in most cases. If they would only use the "stealth mode" on their craft and move quietly within easier casting range they could be both more accurate and have more touch and control, without having to use a double haul on every cast.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]That brings up another point, that has not been mentioned here yet. Good casting technique will provide more distance, more accuracy and result in less fatigue. A lot of tubers try to compensate for being lower in the water by raising their casting rod way up high. That will wear you out fast. Even though you sit lower, you can still make good loops and decent casts by keeping your elbow down and usinging the wrists.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Of course there are a lot of fly flingers who have more enthusiasm than good form. They get started without any good instruction, they learn bad habits and they get frustrated. But, if they manage to take a few fish they still call themselves fly fishermen. [/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]I ain't gonna call them anything else. If they enjoy their sport, they don't need snobs giving them a hard time. However, I do recommend that anyone planning to take up fly fishing...or who wants to improve their proficiency...take a class or do a lot of reading and practicing to work on their casting skills.[/size][/#0000ff]

[#0000ff][size 1]Many years ago on Strawberry Reservoir, in Utah, I heard the term "float tuber's distance cast". I found out it meant first getting out a twenty foot cast any way you could...with sinking line...and then kicking backward as you let out more line. That works for dredging the depths on lots of waters.[/size][/#0000ff]
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