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Cure for Leaky Waders
#1
Thought I'd pass along a tip that has helped keep me dry.

Leaky waders are an ongoing problem for all fishermen, both bankies and tubers/tooners. I was on my third pair of breathables (in four years) recently and picked up a tip that has saved the day for me. Besides fishing from tubes and pontoons, I fish for Steelhead from the bank. Oregon is covered with berry briars and it usually isn't long before the shins of my waders begin to leak in more than one spot from too much bushwhacking. I had put two of the pairs in the closet because I couldn't bear to throw them away after spending so much on them. Yet I had failed several times to successfully patch them using the most often recommended remedy - Aquaseal. Aquaseal works if you are successful in finding the individual leak(s) but I have found that as things go, I usually miss a few. If, as in one case with these waders, there is a series of leaks around the stocking foot joint, or across an area, it is hard to get enough coverage.

The tip is to use Plasti Dip, the product used to coat tool handles to keep them from being slippery. Plasti Dip is a foul smelling liquid that spreads smoothly and in thin coats, dries very rubbery and pliable.

[Image: plastidip2.jpg]

Since my two pairs of waders were basically useless after several patching attempts the old way, I figured I had nothing to lose. So I slathered on some Plasti Dip (on the INSIDE of the waders) using a small foam paint brush.

[Image: wadefix1.jpg]

After the prescribed four hour drying time I put my waders on and strolled across the street (I live by a river) and plunged in. No leaks! Not a one. They are still flexible, comfortable, and breathable in the spots with no Plasti Dip. I won't say they're suddenly like new but these were basket case waders - useless to me. Now they don't leak at all.

I patched an old pair of neoprenes with Plasti Dip this past week and the result was the same. Find the leak(s) by turning them inside out and filling them with water. Mark them with a laundry marker. Empty them out, let them dry completely, then turn them inside out again and spread the Plasti Dip. Allow four hours minimum drying time. I like to let them cure a bit, perhaps for a day or two. This gets rid of most of the foul smell. Since the inner fabric on the neoprenes tends to soak up the first coat, I recommend two coats over all leak areas.

Be sure to observe the cautions on the label. Do this in a well ventilated area. If you don't you'll get the mother of all headaches.

Plasti Dip runs about 7 bucks a can at Home Depot. A can will patch a lot of waders. It comes in red, black, white, yellow, and I've heard it comes in clear. The store only had black and red and since I didn't want to order any, I just used the black. It isn't visible inside the waders anyway.

I now have six pairs of waders in the house and not a single leaker. I'm happy. Mrs. zonker is happy. Even the dog is happy.

No wait. We don't have a dog.

Hope you can have the same results.

zonker
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#2
Hi there,

Thanks..... gonna check the price on this as the products I know cost a pretty penny. I've been looking for something to dip my leadheads in to add color to the un-painted heads. Experience with others in saltwater was that the color or material faded and disintergarated.

JapanRon
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#3
[cool][#0000ff]Hey Zonker, thanks for the great tip. I have bought this stuff in the past and tried it for painting jig heads. Of course it works, but I find that it makes too thick of a coat on the smaller heads. Great for coating anything that you want sealed, waterproofed and a smooth surface though.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I have used AquaSeal before, as you described, by smearing it over areas with lots of pinhole leaks. On a volume basis, the Plastic Dip is far less expensive.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]That is one of the big problems with the "breathable" waders...especially Hodgmans. The integrity of the fabric layers breaks down with useage and results in those pesky pinhole leaks. Okay in warmer water, but a trip-ender in real cold water. I just hate hypothermia.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I know all about the blackberry vines and other stickery vegetation along the northwest waterways. I totally trashed a brand new pair of "high end" waders while following a big bright steelie down the banks of the Smith River in northern Cal one time.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I will capture the address of this post and it will become a part of our "HOW TO" archives.[/#0000ff]
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#4
JapanRon,

I haven't tried Plasti Dip on leadheads. I suspect that it would wear off the surface fairly quickly if there was much contact with rocks, sand, or sharp fish teeth. I use the convenient powder paint on my jig heads. Lots of colors available. If you bake them at 350 degrees for 20 minutes it makes a very hard and durable surface.

zonker
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#5
Tubedude,

Plasti Dip can be thinned very effectively with Xylene. In fact, if you're going to keep it around and use it for other things, a can of Xylene is a good companion product.

I have used Plasti Dip for coating my foam and balsa floats when jig fishing for steelhead and salmon. Makes a great float.

I've been wondering if a coat of Plasti Dip (the spray version available in an aerosol can) might be a good coloring coat for that white PVC rod holder that I made according to your instructions.

zonker
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#6
[cool][#0000ff]I use mostly vinyl paints for my coloring coat, because I can get the colors I want, and I can add glitters, etc. I also add eyes to most of my jigs and create stripes and other color patterns on others. I always top coat them with clear epoxy paint. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]I like the durability of the powder paints, but they are time consuming to make. I make up 50 to 200 jig heads at a time, and doing the coating and baking is a pain. I also do not like having to go back and pop out the paint from the eyes after they are baked.[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]The plastic coating would be probably the most durable paint for coloring the "plain vanilla" PVC. It would probably also create a softer finish, to reduce noise and cushion rods.[/#0000ff]
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#7
[cool][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Hey there zonker - thanks for your indepth report. Haven't had a leak in my Simms yet [knock on a steelhead - a wooden one]. For what I had to pay for those suckers I just won't chase any rabbits into the brush. Back to your report - will keep it in mind should I ever get a leak. I guess that stuff would work on a tube, don't you think?[/size][/green][/font]
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#8
DR,

Don't think I would want to trust it with anything under air pressure. What you need there is a patch that covers an area big enough to give some strength to whatever its bound to. At least that's the way it looks to me.

zonker
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#9
[cool][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Hey there zonker - oh I have a patch kit for my FatCat was just posing the question for other tubers with a leaky tube.[/size][/green][/font]
[font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]By the way what part of the country do you hale from?[/size][/green][/font]
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#10
I'm in western Oregon, DR, in a little logging town called Sweet Home. Its a steelhead/salmon fishing town. When the crowds get to heavy I head for the trout lakes, tubing, tooning, and sometimes boating.

zonker
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#11
[center][cool][/center][center][font "Poor Richard"][green][size 4]Beautiful country up there. Use to live in Woodinville, Wa. Miss all the rivers that were just minutes from my front door.[/size][/green][/font][/center]
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