Noodle Rod- Fine Tuning

[JapanRon]

Hey guys,

Just put the spinning eyelets (light temp wrap) on a fiberglass 9ft, 6wt flyrod. 7 eyelets (nice single post ceramic that are just a very little larger [on the first two eyelets near the reel only] than on a like length rod)plus tip top. Trying to cast 1 1/2" grubs with 1/8oz egg sinker slider rig of 4lb test.
At present reel spool diameter is too small however I don't think that's the whole problem.....

When I cast this thing (I flyfish also) the tip top really whips (carrys)forward after the rods releases its load.

A combination of side cast, Kentucky windage and a bass master's spinner bait cast in the brush get the job done but I think I need to change something phyiscal!

Potential Problems:
1) Too many eyelets? (I've spaced the eyelets in the normal spacings seen on other spinning rods of the same length)
2) Just get a bigger diameter reel/spool before doing anything?
(going to do this anyway)
3) Tip Top too heavy?
4) Rod too soft?

I did get some bites with the rod.

Anybody else know what to do besides give up on the blank!
The eyelets alone cost more than the generic rod. ha ha ha

JapanRon
a.k.a. tsurikichi (means fishing crazy in Japanese)
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[lonehunter]

ron ,try http://thestealheadsite.com , go to the " rigging " forum . you can find out a lot from there posts there about rod building . but i think you might be overcasting if i understand your post right .
i'm no pro , just starting to learn this stuff myself so i can start building my own . first thing i learned is that you have to have your line follow the bend of the rod smoothley - no sharp bends !
the guides ( eyelets ) are done by first figuring out the distance your reel needs to let the line flow off the spool smothely without over spooling or under restriction . to close it slows the line down off the reel , to far it slows the line down on the first guide , thats where you put your first guide on your pole
you run your line thru that guide to the tip . pull down on the line and the rod will bend , figure out the middle of the arch ( not the middle of your rod or " blank " as they call them )of the bend and put on the middle (second) guide . you keep repeating this procedure ( working from the middle of the bend out to both ends of the first guide and the tip guide )untill your line follows the rod without having any sharp bends in the line ( sometimes you have to re-adjust some of the guides so use some strong tape or string until you get the right placement before making them permanate ). if you look at some "top of the line rods" you will notice a lot more guides on the tip end ( bends more there )and less at it's bottom half ( stiffer bend ). my ( used) custom built 10'6'noodle has fourteen guides plus the tip . i thought that that was too many and would slow the line down , but it casts like a dream ! if i can find any sites that have more info i'll let you know , davetclown might know some , that guy can find anything !
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[lonehunter]

hey , there it is on the home page of B.F.T , under featured sponsers . customrodbuilders.com ! theres the place to start getting some info !
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[JapanRon]

Thanks lonehunter,

Went out today 3:30pm on a super low tide got bit big time with hits upon hits.
Good News: Changing the reel (larger spool diameter and new line with absolutely no coils or memory) made all the difference on distance.
Bad News: Even though the rod is not a pure parabolic it is so whippy that it was almost impossible to drive a sharp new correctly sized hook properly placed through a 1 1/2" grub into the fish WITHOUT causing the rod to look like I had a 20lb salmon on! Bendo my foot!!

I've chosen the wrong blank (bought at a yard sale)that happens to be fiberglass, offbrand and fun to pull on but I'm going to have to go to a mid-range, graphite, non-parabolic, IM6 blank to catch fish consistantly. Heck, I paid more for just 2 of the guides than I did for the rod! Lesson learned! I think.

Still had fun giving myself the gear handicap and just being out playing with my fishy friends.

Again, thanks for the advice and the heads up on the website,

JapanRon
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[lonehunter]

i saw some rod blankes on e-bay that might intrest you , they are going for about $10.00 each . can't remember if was under fishing rods or fishing supplys . i think they were im6 or im7 blankes . factory seconds , but a lot of custom rod builders were buying them up .
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[JapanRon]

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Thanks lonehunter,

I'll take your advice to go and checkout ebay.

I'm gonna keep the mistake but I'm going to strip off the guides for the new wrap and wait and find some el cheapo guides for Ms. Whippy. One really cool thing about Whippy is that if you use her with a 1/32 or 1/16oz fire log sinker and a grub, you can feel every little bottom contour your pulling across.

Regards,

JapanRon
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[Fishslayer]

[cool]Don't flyrod blanks have different tapers than other blanks? I.E., hardly any at all? Try some of the new chemically sharpened "designer" hooks. The things are scary sharp right outta the box.

JMO, nothing scientific, but a pro put forth the idea that more guides (within reason, of course) will actually reduce friction by making the line take a straighter path & make it less prone to slap. Makes sense to me, especially if you're tossing ultralite baits.

For "cheapo" guides have a look at the PacBay Hardaloys. Ya can't get any cheaper without going to bent paperclips and the quality is good.

Fishslayer
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[JapanRon]

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Hey Fishslayer,

Thanks for the advice and concern. Ya, most flyrods have the second half (top half) of the rod doing most of the work. i.e. loading the rod, flexing and unloading itself via carriage of the line forward. (enertia generated both by resistance, gravity and flexing force) My hooking a fish with a fly rod starts with my pulling the line taught plus alpha, and then raising the rod tip to further imbed the hook.

I guess that's why it's not neccessarily the best rod to use AS a conventional or spining rod. Of course, you're right! stiffness or backbone varies between makers whatever the # line weight rating of the rod is said to be.

I'm using the Eagle Claw lazer sharp nickel teflon finesse and the owner fine wire mosquito hooks so hooks are about the best I can Imagne.

I agree with that pro. I have actually 8 guides and a tiptop on the rod. I took the butt cap off and inserted a dowl, then a 16" piece of PVC pipe for a handle (secured by drilling and screws) I'm stubborn so I'll experiment until it no longer seems worth fish with it. Then I'll rebuild it.

Again, thanks for the help,

JapanRon
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