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pointing in the right direction
#1
lets say I am on the lake and the wind comes up,

although we dont get those rollers and curlers found on the ocean, we still get prevailing winds that can avrage 15 miles with gust up to 25 miles per hours,

My question is how vounerable is a person to the wind?

dose the wind spin you like a top?

how do you keep your self pointed in the right direction?
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#2
[cool] Most float tubers feel the same way I do about wind. We'd druther not have to contend with it. It can be worse, when fishing from a bass boat, with a trolling motor, trying to maintain position, but wind is never any angler's favorite weather condition.

There are several factors that come into play when you are dealing with breezes in your flimsy craft. They are wind direction and strength, the size and shape of your flotation craft (tube, uboat, pontoon, etc.), the size and type of fins you are wearing and last...but not least...your physical strength and condition.

I like a light breeze. I refer to it as a "fishing riffle", because it helps break up the surface and reduces the potential for fish to be spotted by predators from above. Fish seem to be more confident and active when there is such a surface disturbance. Unless it escalates to "prevailing winds", it is not hard to move around and maintain position for casting.

It is always easier to move with the wind than against it. On many lakes there is a pattern where there is a morning breeze blowing one direction...and then a period of calm, followed by the breezes blowing back the other way. If you know this, you can use it to your advantage by launching and fishing downwind during the morning, and then following the changing wind direction back to your vehicle later.

On far too many occasions, a stout breeze comes up without warning, while you are out on the water. As long as you can maneuver and cast effectively, it is more a nuisance than a trip terminator. However, you will use more energy by having to constantly kick against the wind. And, the best way to fish in windy conditions is to position yourself upwind from your intended fishing spot and to cast downwind to the fish zone. It's difficult to fish with the wind on either side...because you lose position quickly and the wind bows your line, making it tough to feel strikes...especially on light tackle.

It's almost impossible to fish well casting into the wind. That's what's tough about fishing from a bass boat in the wind. You need to keep the bow pointed into the wind, and cast ahead of the boat. In a float tube, you maintain position with steady even kicks, and cast easily downwind.

When the wind becomes heavy enough that you can't hold position, you either need an anchor or you should leave the water. You will beat yourself to death for much tougher fishing. Only when the smallies or walleyes are stacked up on a windblown shoreline will I continue to buck the waves.

The worst case scenario is when you are a long ways from your vehicle, and take out spot, and a heavy wind jumps up, with big straight-sided waves...blowing straight away from where you need to go to get out safely. Now you will find out how tough you are and how well your craft rides the waves. Prepare to take some water over your stern as you power your way into the waves.

This is where some of the other factors come into play. A round tube rides lower in the water and is less likely to be blown around easily by the wind. On the other hand, it provides more water resistance when you are applying power to move through heavy water. Pontoons can be a tradeoff. They let you ride higher on the water, but catch the wind more and are more susceptible to being blown all over the place...unless you mantain perfect direction into the wind. You get a greater transfer of power to move a kick boat or pontoon, but it is often necessary to compensate for the increased wind resistance on the larger profile.

Similarly, the type of swim fins you strap on can make a big difference. for paddling around a farm pond, you can get by with almost anything. For navigating rivers, big lakes or salt water, you should acquire and use the biggest and best fins you can afford and the strength to operate. You can have fins that are too small, but never fins that are too powerful...especially when the wind kicks up. The first time you have to fight your way a mile back to your take out spot, against any kind of wind or current, you will be thankful for blowing more money than you wanted to, for the bigger fins.

If you regularly fish where wind or current is a likely event, consider one of the pointed bow models of flotation craft...such as the Outcast Fat Cat series. Their unique design helps you fight the fight when Mother Nature wants to push you around.

Above all else, use common sense and basic safety as your guide. If the forecast is for wind, plan something else or at least find a protected cove...and stay there. If you find yourself in a sudden squall, that you can't fight against, you may need to allow the wind to take you to another shore, where you can get out and wait out the storm. They often quiet down as quickly as they come up. If possible, angle across the waves to find a cove within easier access of your vehicle.. I know tubers who have had long windy rides across Angry lakes...and then had to hitch rides with compassionate boaters. Makes a good case for carrying radio, telephone and/or signal flares when launching on big waters.

Well, Dave, did that answer your questions? Did I just complete convincing you that you never want to get in a tube?
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#3
well I was having other thoughts.

thughts like, using the wind as a power source for troling.

I like to go after them walleyes and I like bouncing my bait on the bottom while drifting.

what I was wondering was will the wind spin me like a top or can I keep the wind to my face and drift backwards draggin my leader with out to much effort.
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#4
[cool] Wind "drifting" is a great way to drag a worm harness for walleye. There are lots of times they want it "low and slow"...trolled at paint drying speed. It is tough to troll slow enough with a boat at times, but aided by a breeze and an occasional kick of the fins, you can work out just what the fishies want.

The same is true of fishing flies deep, on a full sinking line, for trout. I have had many lazy and enjoyable drifts across trout ponds, with just enough line out to get the fly deep enough...dozing in the morning sun...waiting for some fool trout to interrupt my reverie.

As far as having to thrash the water to keep on track, float tubers quickly learn that it is a "hands free" and unconscious effort for the most part. Your legs just automatically move to adjust your direction and maintain speed and course. You have to focus and exert yourself only when the wind kicks up enough to make simple fishing difficult.

When going with the breeze, and it is not too strong, it is relatively easy to kick your way back upwind for another drift...as long as you don't go in one direction for several hours and then have to fight your way back through stiff afternoon blows.

Is that more what you had in mind?
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#5

Hey there davetclown,

No problem on the spinning unless someone pulled the plug and you're circling the drain.

The way you indicated fishing from the tube is the way I usually do it unless I'm messing with two different rods and they are rigged to fish two different ways.

On the wind concerns, experience will have you doing the following regarding prevaling wind strength and direction, strong ebb flows, and rogue currents. Keep in mind the following:

1) Does the area you want to fish have any of the above elements and when?
2) Keep an eye on a place of safety you can scurry to in case of emergency.
3) Are you phyiscally OK to fight adverse conditions over a distance if needed?
4) Remember it is easer to carry ALL your gear on land a mile than it is to try to flip your return of a 1/4 mile in adverse conditions.

One other thing: Just because you have an anchor, (standard) ignoring the use of a sea anchor, doesn't mean you can stop travel. There ain't no emergency brake on a tube. Be careful about using an anchor because if you mis-calculate and the current or wind increases suddenly, you may be rudely made aware of the fact that your tube can be dragged off center,under cresting waves or pitched if the anchor gets hung up and or you can't keep the thing from hanging on the bottom. Scary My %^$#@, you just might drown! Mother nature can be humbling.

Hope this helps,

tsurikichi
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#6
ya that what I was thinking about.

there are some lakers down about 40-50 feet deap I would love to hook in to as well. I thaught it might be fun to hook in to a 36 inch rainbow and do a little tube running.[sly] pass them guys up on their motor boats. lol

when I try it in the row boat the wind just wont work as well as I would like it to.

it is eather to fast or to slow. to keep my lure down or the action doing what I want it to do.

thanks, Tubdude thats a great help.
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#7
that ancor thing I have been giving some concideration to.

I use two 5 pound claw ancors that dig in to the ground and weeds. I have pulled up about 10 pounds of weeds when I yank up my ancor.

I was thinking about a tuna can (6 oz) filled with lead with an eye bolt in it for an ancor. total weight 2 - 3 pounds

that flipping thing you mentioned dose concern me a great deal. I dont plan on being on the water when the wind picks up like that. But you know as well as I that when a storm kicks in, it does it with out warning. I have been caught out in my rowboat as I am sure most every one has at one time or another.

although it is not my plan to use an ancore because it will limmit my mobility, but should the ocation arise. where would you sugest to mount the ancor to avoid flipping.

would it help to mount it in front of me so if a wind kicks up the drag will be on the down side?

what weight would you sugest to use for a tube ancore?
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#8

Hey there davetclown,

My comments were directed more toward someone tubing were there were conditions such as one would see in saltwater and larger, wind-prone lakes.

Fishing the ocean, I mount my anchor on a special bracket I made at the front of my WoodStream U-boat. Once I let the anchor down, with the accompanying 8 foot of chain, I simply let out line and drift until the expandable 2lb anchor catches or i.e. sets. If I don't want to swing with the tide, wind, and current shifts, I set out a second anchor on my starbord side at a point of the greatest swing. With a little adjustment, I have a stable platform to fish in a stationary position off a point, etc.

If you wanted a trolling speed adjustment device, other than your fins, you could use a sea anchor. There are some sites on the web where you can learn how to make and use this ancient type of anchor. The parachute-like device would reduce the speed your tube or boat drifts a suprising amount.

Floattubers fishing long stretches of the inside jettys/breakwall can be seen using them here in the San Pedro Harbor area bouncing plastic off the expansive sand bottoms.

Just more food for thought,

tsurikichi
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#9
[cool] Good anchor input, JR. I typically don't carry an anchor, but have wished I had one on some occasions.

Two things I might suggest for enhanced success for walleye, when fishing from a tube. first would be a decent sonar unit, to find structure and fish. Second would be two or three floating marker buoys to help you maintain position, once you find some fish.

On a lake of any size, you are fishing blind if you can't read the bottom contours...or find concentrations of bait or pradators. You have to drag bait or lures over a lot of real estate, hoping you just happen to find a dumb one now and then...and that you are fishing the right thing at the right depth and speed.

Once you find a flat, hump, rockpile or other fish magnet, you need to be able to focus on it. Sometimes the productive zone will be only a few feet across. Fish anywhere else and you might as well be fishing in your bathtub. If you are close enough to shore to be able to "triangulate" your position...or if you have a GPS unit...you have a chance. However, it is far better to drop a couple of buoys...slightly away from the fish...and use them for precise targeting.

I will also suggest that you practice "vertical jigging" from your float tube. This can be especially effective on deep walleyes, huddled up over a small bit of structure. You find them by dragging your bait rigs, and then drop straight down and work your jig and bait combo right in their faces. Float tubes are ideal for this kind of fishing, since you can easily maintain postion...hands free...with a few instinctive fin movements as the need arises.

If you get serious about this stuff, let me know and I will send you a supply of the special "bait bug" jigs I make for presenting worms, leeches, minnows or fish strips. Flutter spoons also work well on occasion. It's just like ice fishing, only you don't need a drill.
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#10
I thought that was what the doghnut was for, so I dont get lonsome for my hole.[sly]

I already have my spots picked out for some rainbows, walleye, cisco and small mouth bass. Maybe even a little giant carp fishing on a lazy sunny afternoon.

the lakers will be the tough ones, I know they are there, it will just be a matter of picking them out from the other giant fish in the pond.

how do you keep your electronics from getting wet and dammaged?
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#11
[cool] Good quality sonar systems are pretty water tight. The display unit is lashed on top of the tube, and the transducer may be attached to a piece of PVC pipe or wood, depending upon the type of unit. I have pics and diagrams when you get to that stage.

Let's just say that if your sonar system is in jeopardy, your body and the rest of your tackle is going to suffer too...as in being totally submerged. If you take care with your sonar, and don't bang it against hard objects, it will maintain it's watertight integrity.

Only when you shorten the transducer cord...as I do...is there a risk of water penetration. You have to cut and splice the cable to shorten it...using solder, shrink tubing and/or waterproof silicone. Still, you should never have to worry about the splice being below the water...unless you overturn or get blasted by a giant wave. If in doubt, don't cut and splice the cord...especially if you are also going to use it on your boat...or maybe sell it to someone else some day. Just roll up the extra and tie it in a ball.
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