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Help Me Design My Bow
#1
I put in for the dedicated hunter this year and I need a new bow... I have decided to go with the Hoyt Vectrix (pretty sure).. it has been about 15 years since I have hunted with a bow and I am sure everything has changed and so I am asking for some help... how should I outfit my bow???

what kind of sight??? what kind of release and arrows and broadheads should I use... thanks for the help guys...
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#2
i would buy the best of everything you can afford, i'm thinking of doing the same thing but waiting until i can buy the best accessories i can get. shoot carbon arrows with an overdraw, from what i've seen they are well worth it. we have done some serious experimenting with broadheads the past couple of years and after trying about 15 different kinds we have decided that the G5 is the one. it is made of one solid piece with no moving parts to malfunction and no inserts, its a pretty cool cutter. there are some great fiber sights out now so finding a good one won't be hard, just make sure the fiber optic is protected- i replace several of mine every year. check out a whisker biscut rest, they are pretty cool. one of the best purchases i've made is a block target, ive shot into it a ton and it is barely chewed up, well worth the money. good luck, sounds fun!
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#3
Like Macman said, go with what you can afford. I disagree about the overdraw though. You will be less accurate with one (simple physics), and there is absolutely no need to have one with carbon arrows. The latest trend is to go with heavier broadheads to compensate for less mass of the carbon arrows, so that is another reason to use standard length shafts. I like the whisker biscuit, but I personally use the Trophy Ridge drop zone...there are many good systems out there, so I don't think one is the best. There is a new magnetic system that looks cool, but I don't know anyone with first hand experience.

For sights, pick up a nice rugged sight array. Ask around at the bow shop. My bow is equipped with Trophy Ridge, but I've heard a lot of good about the Spott Hogg products. I really like thier SDP (Seven Deadly Pin) setup, as you get more options for sighting in. That is my biggest gripe with the TR stuff, only 5 pins.

For your arrows, pick one, and then stick with it. Once again, you can go with a wide range of prices. I shoot the Easton Axis, and have been really pleased. I don't think it's worth the money to go with the A/C/C shafts, but I think you should avoid the bottom of the line stuff. My bro shoots Gold Tips, and has been happy with them as well.

Your release will be a very important purchase. I still shoot a trigger style, but most pros will say go with the rope style "surprise" release. That is one that your slowly ulnar deviate your wrist untill it lets go, you really don't know when it will shoot, but they say that type of release will make you a better shooter.

I've heard good things about the Vectrix, but remember you will spend a lot of money just setting up the bow. For top of the line accessories, you will double the cost of your bow. Go to a local archery shop and shoot several bows to see which one best fits you. I currently shoot a Browning, but my next upgrade will likely be Bowtech, Matthews, or Hoyt. I haven't shot the newest stuff yet (too much temptation), but I'm sure you'll be happy with your choice.
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#4
thanks guy.. I have some good ideas, now I need to head to the archery shop..
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#5
Last year I upgradded my setup to a Browning Illusion. I realy like the bow but I had a hard time deciding between it and the AR 34. As far as the bows go you need to shoot a few of them and see what fits you the best. You can spend all the money you want and get the "best bow" that evryone reccomends, but if it don't fit you comfortably it's worthless. The Illusion came with a dozen of the PSE Radial X-weave arrows so I didn't need to buy any. Ive heard some really good things about the Maximas, and the Axis arrows. (I was going to buy the Axis). The X-weave's have awesome specs and so far they seem to be really tough and they shoot good as well. I set up the bow with Alpine's drop-away rest and a PSE Top Gun Night Hawk 3 pin sight. (I had the Cobra sight that was really similar, but the top gun has better protecton for the fiber optics) Now some people like to have 5 or 7 pins but I don't. I like the simplicity of 3. I have the first pin set at 25 yards then 40 and 50 yards. Close far, and way out there. I really don't see the need for anything beyond 50, but that is just my opinion. I shoot the G5 broadhead and I sure like them, they are very srong and durable and they are easy to resharpen. I shoot a glove style caliper release but I may change that to a rope style this year. I wouldn't wory about the over draw. ( I had one on one of my older setups and I ended up missing 2 opertunities at elk because of the problems the can cause. A couple of feet per second is meaningless. Take the accuracy benefit over the speed increase.
Like everyone has said previously, get the best gear you can afford. About the only thing that's not important is a quiver and stabilizer so you can cut cost there but everything else needs to be the best you can get.
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#6
thanks elkoholic, I appreciate all the help guys... this week is the week I go shopping...
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#7
Check out the International Sportsmans Expo. They have all kinds of new archery products and really good deals on other stuff. Last year I picked up gold-tip arrows for $19.00 per 6. They also have some awesome deals on fishing stuff. The dates are Thursday March 15 - Sunday March 18. I'll be at the fly tying station with some other local BFTers, come on down.
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#8
i'm curious to why no overdraw? i'm not trying to say your wrong, and since most of my knowledge comes from my own experience (which is often narrow minded) ive never had a problem with my overdraws. i checked out two bows at the hunt expo that were fully rigged, one mathews and one hoyt and they both had overdraws on them. i'm just trying to gather info because i'm entering the market this year and the more info i can have the better. bows seem to be like computers, if you don't get a new one every two years your behind the times, so i'm about three years overdue.
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#9
First off you will loose some accuracy because you are moving your forward resting point toward the rear of the arrow. Think of it like resting the front end of your rifle stock on a bench then try resting the trigger guard on the bench. It's just not as solid of a resting point.
Second, you take off a little weight which affects your K.E. Yes you gain speed but not very much. SPEED DOESN'T KILL. Shot placement does. The overall best scenario is to have fast moving mass.
Take the weight and accuracy over speed any day. If your wondering about the speed, look at all the bow kills over the years with recurves and long bows. They barely make 200 fps (some won't even get that), and they shoot big heavy heads. They usually get great results when they make contact.
My set up right now, 410 gr total weight (arrow and broadhead) at 270 fps. 64lb draw. Easy to shoot and good penetration.
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#10
I will be tying flies at the expo also... and I really appreciate the help but I GOT MY BOW.. it is awesome... I will post another thread..
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