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Thinking about sewing on (not by me but a shoe repair guy) straps on the side of my old FishMaster so I could have the rod holders on the left side instead of it running along the front in the way of my casting arm.
Good idea or bad idea?
Can those tubes be heated then bent? Notice those electrician guys heat those gray tubing to any angle they wanted and it stays put.....
Reason I'm asking as the FM is rounded and the tubing is too straight.
Do I need two of those 22.5 degree elbows, not sure if there is such a thing at that degree but I know they have 30, 45 and 90.?
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[cool] [#0000ff]Rather than spending money to put holes in your tube cover, you could also just strap on some holders, like I have in these old pictures from my archives. Old round tubes usually did not have lots of fancy D rings so we had to improvise. [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]If you "lash down" anything on your tube, fill the tube to about 80% capacity and then tighten your knots on the straps or rope. Then, when you finish airing up the tube, the straps will remain tight. The only potential problem is that if you get a leak, or lose air volume in cold water, the straps can slip and drop your gear into the water.[/#0000ff]
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![[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=10114;]](http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=10114;) [size 1]
A serviceable but heavy three tube PVC rod rack. It was lashed permanently in place with nylon rope and had to be checked for snugness, to avoid having rods slide around and into the water.
![[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=10115;]](http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=10115;) [/size]
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I have put straps and "D" rings on several of my tubes that didn't already have them, but I do know how to sew.
It doesn't hurt anything and to make it even stronger, I would run a bead of Aquaseal along the inside seam to make sure it was strong enough.
My biggest thing was putting Nylon straps on the side so it is easy to pick the tube up.
I don't use those MULTI rod holders like so many of you do, but I think, myself anyway, I would alter the outer cover of the tube to accommodate the add ons to make it that much more secure and look nice. [cool]
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Yes you can bend pvc. And just a tip from another fellow PVC crafter I met at Lowes when I was setting up my first tube is.
If you are going to bend PVC fill is with sand first and you will not get kinks n the bend. It will be nice and smooth.
Majja
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That was the reason to sew the straps on each side of the tool bag top and bottom only the left side and run the straps thru the rod tubes then I can tighen the straps.
Frist try on the front as u see the photo it did work just fine as I did make a 'knot' on one of the "d" rings to stop it from moving. If there wasn't any "stop" on the straps then it would be sliding around the front.
By the way I did take it to the shoe guy and he says can sew it on. I would get it back Monday.
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Sounds like gotta have a long length of it before bending? Did u try bending one for what you wanted?
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I got a bunch of D rings and those strap things (a little square with two slots, not sure of it's name), I thought about using them too but as long I'm using those buckets (the kind that u feed the strap thur and pull on the strap it tighens and clamps on it) mounted on the top of the belly float.
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I do alot of electrical work. When I don't have the heating blanket handy for the last minute bends, I use the same technique.
Fill pipe with Silica sand and apply torch. Bend to desired amount and allow to cool a few minutes before attempting to move.[cool]
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Sounds like it is going to be a nice set-up. I love the Quick Clips. I spend a fortune every time I go to Kirkhams's (tent builders) on quick clips, "D" rings, nylon strapping, stretch cord, you name it, it will all get used at one time or another.
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I heat and bend pvc all the time you can heat it with a torch or a heat gun. Electricians use high output heat blankets and ovens works pretty good. The only problem I have ever had heating it with a torch is it will burn and discolor very easy. Also just a thought you can use blue brute poly pipe and can glue it with pvc glue. Poly will bend very easy and has a natural curve
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Works with white PVC (20) and (40)? Why that kind of sand not the sandbox sand? How long can u have the tubes before it is bented then cut to size?
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It works well with both the Sch 20 or class 200 and the Sch40. I generally prefer to stay away from the play sand, sand box sand or washed plaster sand. I prefer the #30 or #60 silica sand. It is alot finer and doesn't stick to the inside of the pipe.
I will generally leave the bent pipes set for about 3 to 5 minutes before cutting them tot the finished size.
You can use this on the white pvc or on the Grey.[cool]
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Wow lots of help from all and I'm gonna try those tricks this weekend while I wait for the shoe guy....
Thanks alot everybody!!! ][  ][cool]
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I see what u guys ment by filling it with sand. I did test bending it after heating it with the touch and it left kinks on the inside bend without any sand added.
I gotta get some kind of sand and try again.
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I have never bent the wihite tubes as yet, but I have a lot of practise at bending metal tubing.
We use a steel spring inside the tube to be bent, and this maintains the round cross - section from flattening while actually doing the bending. Then the spring, being flexible, can be pulled out after the bend is in place.
On many occasions I have not had the right size of spring, so I have tried several flexible round objects that would support the tube walls.
Based on this, and if sand is unavailable, it might be possible to use an auto rubber hose (rubber can take high temps) inside the PVC pipe. I would expect that the rubber would have to have a lengthwise cut through one side, or possibly a spiral cut (creating a spiral "spring" of rubber) so that the inner rubber could be withdrawn later.
I have not tried it. It might work, and it might not! Just an idea .....
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[size 1]""We use a steel spring inside the tube to be bent, and this maintains the round cross - section from flattening while actually doing the bending. Then the spring, being flexible, can be pulled out after the bend is in place. ""[/size]
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[size 1]I have seen something like that use on those copper tubings. I havent tried bending coppers yet but I do some work with it. That would be a pretty good idea to use it inside of those PVC.[/size]
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The important thing is to be able to get the "plug" out after bending ... I can't see anything beating sand.
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That is exactly what I was thinking, IrishFloatTube.[crazy]
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Frist pic....top sew
Second pic...strap thr the tube
Third pic...bottom sew
Forth pic...rod holder on the side
fifth pic...the bent tube.
I tried heating the tube with sand in and it still gave me the "fold" looks. Tried it three times so I let it go as it is.
Next time on sewing, I would strap the rod holder on then trace the lines while the hole thing is up so it would be easier for the shoe guy to follow the line. We kinda had to guess where it starts and ends.
Rod holder is solid holding on the tube so sounds good so far....
MMMM did I miss something?
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[black][size 4]Nice job![cool][/size][/black]
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