PAINTS & ADHESIVES

[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, JapanRon, check the attachment I posted at the bottom of the page. I thought of your new miracle glue when I saw it.

I also thought that a discussion of favorite paints and glues might be a fun thing to do. Almost every seasoned angler has a collection of jars and tubes full of stuff they have bought for one situation or another. In addition to the chosen few I now use all the time, I have stuff I have had for years, used once and will never use again. I am only keeping it around to see if I can let it mellow into "antique" status, for future collectors.

To keep it brief, and start it off, I use several paints for jig and lure painting. For one-coating jig heads, I use two part epoxy paints. I mix them, allow them to cure for a half hour, then apply. As soon as I have a batch ringing around an old metal bread pan, I pop them into a 160 degree oven for 20 - 30 minutes. When they cool, they are rock hard and impervious to most dings, and they do not react to the solvents in plastic lures.

I also use vinyl paints for some applications, but I finish them with clear epoxy paint as a final protection. You need to do this expecially for the fluorescent and glow paints. they are soft and they do not have a very good gloss. The final coat of clear epoxy takes care of all problems.

For some colors, I go to the hobby and model shops, to get some of the exotic colors used in model building. These paints are not ding-proof, and also need a coat of expoxy paint for gloss and toughness.

I have a wide assortment of glues. I build rods, tie flies, make lures and mess around with several esoteric crafts. I am also the guy everyone calls whenever a neighbor or family member has a mending job. So, I have all kinds of adhesives from all purpose to vinyl, to glass, to liquid metal, to contact glue to super glue and epoxies...quick set and long cure.

For wader and tube repairs I have the standard patch kits. I also keep some "Aquaseal" in my freezer at all times. It is great stuff for just putting on a gob and letting it cure. Fixes waders, tubes, vinyl air chambers and all kinds of things. GOOP is right up there too, for a fix all squeezable product. JapanRon mentioned the Marine grade of GOOP. I haven't tried it yet, but maybe he can offer some other ideas on applications.

There are several new "fishermen's glues", designed to apply to knots for a stronger connection. These especially help with knotting some of the new super lines. They are often difficult to get to maintain a tight knot, with full knot strength. A drop of fisherman's glue on a "nail knot"...or some other leader to fly line connection...can make the resulting knot cleaner and help it slide through the guides easier.

How about it gang, whet are you using to help you stick to fishing? Please, no more duct tape tricks. I'll never get my wife to forgive me now, for making her "safe" from chemical warfare. Kept the house quiet until she managed to dial 911 on the portable phone I forgot I left in the cellar.
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[JapanRon]

Hi there TubeDude,

As usual, interesting subject. My contribution: he he he Nothing Big!

Liquid Rubber! You can get it in Red, Blue, and Yellow which gives you a lot of other colors or swirly designs. It's avaliable from a number of different outlets. The stuff is mainly used to dip stuff in. But, if you treat a surface properly it will adhere and even wear well if you don't apply too much.

Now, my question. How do you treat jigs (often aluminum/something alloys) and lead heads that have oxidation, corrosion, whatever so that when you paint the thing, then ding it or get chomped by a big ol barracuda, it will not start to peel down to the metal.

Thanks,

JapanRon
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, Ron San. Good input. I also have used the rubber dip paints on a few projects. They work okay on larger lures and jig heads, but the thickness of the coat makes it too bulky for small jigs. It's great stuff for coloring hex bars and the homemade copper tubing lures I used to make for deep jigging for rockfish. I used mostly white, and it seems to hold up well when bounced off deep rocky structure...until the lure forms an attachment to one of those tackle eaters.

As you so correctly point out, metal surfaces need to be cleaned before you can expect a coat of paint to adhere properly. This requires a soaking in either a mild acid, to loosen the oxide and tarnish, or some kind of commercial preparation especially formulated for the task. Look in auto and truck supply stores...and janitorial supply houses...for all kinds of tarnish removers and aluminum cleaners. Most require either spraying or soaking, followed by a vigorous hand polishing to finish removing the tarnish and leaving shiny metal. I also like to rub the finished lures with baking soda or dip them in a water solution of baking soda to neutralize any remaining acids that can contribute to dulling of the metal if allowed to remain on the surfaces.

You didn't mention cleaning brass and copper spinner blades and spoons. There are a lot of tarnish removers and metal polishes available in most super markets for this. A small can will last forever.

It is important to apply at least a white base coat of paint after cleaning up lead jigs and aluminum lures. Once tarnished and then cleaned, they seem more prone to acquiring another layer of oxide. I also use a lot of glitter paints and often a strip of flashy prism tape on some of my lures.

Hope this helps. Any other ideas?
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[davetclown]

have you guys tryed the honies enamal nail polish?

cleaning with polish remover will suficently clean the jig heads to be receptive of the new paints.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Nail polish remover contains acetone, which is a powerful solvent. But, I don't mess around with the wimpy watered down polish remover. I buy straight acetone by the pint can at Home Depot. It is the best thing for cleaning up brushes after using them in epoxy paint...and cleaning table tops and fingers too. The only bad part is that it is toxic, and you need to work in a ventilated area...and don't allow too much to get on your skin. Your skin absorbs it quickly and it can be dangerous.

Acetone will help clean the old paint off jigs you want to refinish, but it does not have much effect on oxides and corrosion. That usually requires soaking in some kind of acid base product, to dissolve or break down the crud so you can brush or rub it off.

I am especially careful about using mama's pretty up stuff. If I get caught, there might be a misunderstanding. Heck, I have been wearing panty hose now ever since my wife found that pair in the back seat of my fishing rig.
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[lonehunter]

tube dude ! your my hero ! i've been looking for something to stop the seam leaks in my neopreme waders , what will do the trick ? i don't want the fisheys thinking a couple of birch trees ( or saplings ) are walking in the river , it might spook them !
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[TubeDude]

[cool]There is a regular neoprene cement that you can get at dive shops and other places that sell neoprene suits and waders. It is a "contact" like stuff, that you coat both surfaces to be joined, allow to dry and then push firmly together. It is kind of a glue weld. It is the best for most problems with neoprene.

A lot of guys just use Aquaseal, which is a slow drying, clear and flexible material. I use it on my lightweight waders and it also does a great job on pinhole leaks in vinyl and urethane air bladders in the float tubes. You need to apply the stuff while the material is laying flat, so that it forms a thick patch and doesn't run off. The hardest part is finding the leak from a pinhole. I'll be happy to offer some input on that if needed.

Just in case any of the readers do not know how to find a leak in waders...besides going fishing in them...here's my usual routine. The leak is typically in a foot, ankle or leg. So, if you take them into the shower, you can add water to that leg only until you have a decent volume (when you pull the shower head out of the wall). Be sure the walls of the shower are dry beforehand and be careful not to spill water outside. You will be looking for what is sometimes just a tiny bead of water. Sometimes it is a good stream coming out. Have a permanent marker available (in advance) and mark the hole. Dry the waders, inside and out and then use the appropriate sealer or repair.
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[lonehunter]

thanks tubedude , i'm getting pritty tired of taking them off only to find an embaressing wet spot , and hearing things like " hey fella , theres bushes up along the bank !"
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[TubeDude]

[cool]I know whatcha mean. I have trouble convincing people it's just "condensation" when I have to pour a bunch of water out of my boots when I come in. Danged weak kidneys anyway.

They say there is no such thing as a perpetual motion machine. I can accept that. What I CAN'T figure out though, is how one cup of coffee (or other liquid consumed before tubing) can so quickly turn into five gallons of impatient "bilge water".

But, if you wanna, you just stick with the leaky waders excuse.
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[davetclown]

now thee is a million dollar idea,

a water proof fly, (not the fishing veriety [laugh])

no coffee for me a couple hours before steppin in to my waders.
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[Curtisfish]

How about a hole in the waders where a mouse decided it looked lice a nice home. It chewed a hole about the size of a 50 cent piece. The hole is at the ankle if it matters.

My other pair has a frown shaped tear from a log late last year. What would be the reccommended patch, glue, or combo there? The tear is about 3-4 inches long. I caught the leg going over a log next to the stream, couldn't catch myself, went flying over the log, onto the next log, gear went about 6 feet in every direction. I imagine from an outside view, it would have been funny. I just have 2 sets of waders and none to wade in.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I can afford glue and rubber right now, not another set of waders. Besides, my Aleutians have kinda grown on me.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey Curtisfish, you didn't say what kind of material was involved. Are your waders neoprene, breathables, rubber or what?

If they are neoprene, the tears can be fixed with the neoprene cement. Just coat each edge of the tear with the cement, let it dry and then stick it together. If it is on a stress point, where there is a lot of stretching, you might want to consider stitching a piece of fabric on the inside, like they do on some of the the seams and corners. Glue the patch in place, let it dry and then stitch with a heavy commercial needle and nylon thread.

If you have a big hole in neoprenes, you need to find a spare piece from someplace...or cut one from a top area not needed for dryness or warmth. Put the piece under the hole and draw the outline of the hole on it. Using sharp scissors or a razor blade, cut out the hole and cement in place, as if it were a tear.

For fabric, you have to repair big tears by cementing a piece of the same material on the inside, or using a suitable patch material. If you use the right material and cement, the repair will be stronger than the original. I like aquaseal.

If I have been suitably confusing, come on back and I'll elaborate.
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[Curtisfish]

Thanks, TubeDude.

Sorry for not mentioning that both pairs are 3.5mm neoprene. I have not seen the neoprene cement. I'll go to the local dive shop and see if they carry it. That should cover the tear. The mouse hole, will be a little harder. I had not thought about cutting a section from higher, good idea. Also adding a backing to the patch, very good advice. thank you very much for the response. I'll get on it and let you know.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]You might want to take your "holy" waders with you to the dive shop. They often have scraps they will sell cheap or donate if you buy the cement. If you beg and grovel a lot, they might even help with the repair.

I learned about repairing neoprene wet suits as a young diver in California, long before they began using neoprene in waders. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy that cement is to use. You just daub on a fair amount around all the edges to be sealed, and they press the pieces together when the stuff has dried a bit. By pressing it firmly together and allowing the bond to cure for a few hours, you have a weld that is about as strong as a piece of untorn material.

One thing I had not posted, on this thread, is NOT to use epoxy in making repairs on waders or air chambers. Some of that stuff is great for a lot of things, but it is not good for any mending job that requires flexibility or water immersion. I have never found an epoxy yet that would hold very long when subjected to a lot of wet. Ditto for "Super Glue".

I have mentioned "Aquaseal" in a couple of places. This gooey liquid is good to carry on all long trips, to help save the day for tears and punctures in your gear...rubber, plastic, urethane or neoprene. It is a slow curing product, by itself, but wherever it is sold you can usually buy a bottle of the accelerant to mix with it, to make it cure faster. It dries almost clear, it grabs onto almost any fabric or plastic material and it makes a flexible patch that will not crack and break loose.

One last question I have for you. Which did you discover first...the mouse hole in your neoprenes...or a constipated rodent exhibiting signs of severe distress in eliminating rubberized "pellets"? Ain't that a visual?
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[Curtisfish]

I had not even ran the thought of the mouse through my head. Thanks for the visual. I set out a trap and got the little bugger for eating into my waders. Now I'll have to think of it as a mercy killing.

Thanks again for the help. You're writing has almost got me convinced to purchase another personal floater. I've had a few different tubes, the last one was a bucks bag probably made 8 or 9 years ago. I just gave it away last summer because I had bought another craft. Both of my biggest Smallmouth, a lot of Walleye, and a fair share of trout were caught from that tube.

I know the technology has improved greatly. That rat of yours looks like a nice way to travel.

I bought a Bucks Bags - South Bend pontoon two years ago and loved it. I decided to go that way since I live near the Green River in Utah. You can only take white water certified craft down the river. I had a blast in the kick boat everywhere I went except one. I got caught in a wind storm on Starvation. I had rowed out about 1/4 mile and couldn't get back. Those things float so high on the water, you can't steer them in a breeze. I also noticed that fish don't mind tubes, they notice pontoons. They didn't scatter like when I'm in my boat, but they were a lot more shy to bite. I ended up selling the pontoon because I didn't have anyone to go with me. None of the people I fish with had or could afford a kick boat. My kids miss it as much as I do.

[url "http://myweb.ecomplanet.com/CURT6897/PageAlbumCurtisfish+Page2PageNumber1Pic1Fullview.htm"][/url]
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[TubeDude]

[cool]Hey, man. Those are a couple of keepers in that 'toon. Good lookin' kids. Have you got them checked out on castin' and windin' yet? The important thing is to create a love and appreciation for Mama Nature, and especially for the finny critters she puts in the waters for us fisherman types to play with.

Your point on the higher profile wind catching qualities of the pontoons is one of only a couple of good reasons why someone would want to think more traditional craft instead. They ride high and catch the breeze.

On the other hand, I was out in major winds yesterday afternoon, with Mike Barker from Ogden (down here in Arizona), and my new Super Fat Cat handled better than any craft I have ever ridden in the wind. It has a lower profile than the Kennebec I had been jockeying (and Mike was in), but still high riding for efficient propulsion. The upturned pointed bow (stern) allowed me to stay pointed easily into the waves and cut down on the splashover.

The two other pontoon negatives, for most anglers are the cost and the size. It takes a bigger chunk of "net spendable" to buy a good 'toon, and it also takes a bigger vehicle to transport one all "locked and loaded". Of course you can break 'em down and stuff 'em in a trunk, but that would mean more setup time when you get to the lake...or river. When there's fishing to be done, you don't wanna be foolin' with settin' up your 'toon.

When and if you get serious about goin' afloat again, don't hesitate to post up what you are lookin' at for input from the masses...or at least a couple or three hopeless reprobates.
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[Curtisfish]

Thanks for the kindness towards the kids. they are both proficient with closed and open faced spinning gear(the pic is a couple of years old). They like fishing for Rainbow the most due to the ease of catch and good eats. I have a nice little Brown and Rainbow pond about 10 min. from the house where they stay in practice. My boy seems to have a knack for Smallies. Every time I take him to a lake that has them in it, he's all over them. My little girl is plenty happy with anything that is on the end of her line.

I'll post in more when I have the spare change to look for a craft. I need to get on the ball with it. They planted Tiger Muskie fingerlings in a small lake about 25 min. from the house last year. By next year, they should make for some fun C&R sport. I imagine having a "Tiger by the tail" would be quite the ride in a tube. I know a 2lb. Smallie can turn you in circles until you are dizzy.

Haven't been to the Phoenix area since I was a teen. I might have to make a trip to learn the finer points after the purchase. Thanks again for being there, and just for being you. Hope to see you on the water.
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