PAINTS

[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]It is possible to catch fish on plain unpainted jig heads, spinners and hardbaits. But, since colors and patterns are a big part of the feeding trigger mechanisms with many predatory fish, it is better to paint them in a variety of ways. (See the attached 1 page PDF writeup on FISH TRIGGERS) [/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Painting your creations is soul-satisfying. It is always more fun to catch fish on lures you have painstakingly decorated with your own little hands. And, it helps keep you off the streets.[/#0000ff]

[#0000ff]I will be dealing with the actual processes of painting jig heads and other lures in another instructional thread, but I am attaching another PDF file at the bottom on PAINTING JIG HEADS. It will supply a lot of info that will help you to decide which paints you want to buy and use.[/#0000ff]

[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff]Now let’s talk about paints. Over the years I have experimented with almost every type of paint, adhesive and coloring agent on the market. I have a large shelf unit full of paints, of almost every conceivable type and color. Some I have used only for an initial experiment. Others are standards in my day-to-day lure-making operations. Here are links to some of the online sources:[/#0000ff][/font][/size]

[font "Times New Roman"][#ff0000][size 3][url "http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/index/index-display.jsp?id=cat20360&navAction=jump&navCount=1&cmCat=MainCatcat20166&parentType=category&parentId=cat20166"]CABELAS PAINTS[/url][/size][/#ff0000][/font][red][size 3]
[/size][/red][url "http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/fishing-lure-paint/"][font "Times New Roman"][red][size 3]JANNS PAINTS & TOOLS[/size][/red][/font][/url][red][size 3]
[/size][/red][url "http://www.upnorthoutdoors.com/stamina/paint.html"][red][size 3]LURECRAFT PAINTS
STAMINA PAINTS & ACCESSORIES[/size][/red][/url][red][size 3]
[/size][/red][url "http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showprod.cfm?&DID=6&CATID=58&ObjectGroup_ID=175"][red][size 3]BARLOWS PAINTS[/size][/red][/url]


[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#ff0000]TYPES OF PAINTS:[/#ff0000][/font][/size] [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]EPOXIES:[/#ff0000] Available in most standard jig colors...white, black, red, yellow, etc.. Great for base coats and eyes, but they usually take several hours to cure...unless you heat them in a toaster oven. These are the best liquid paints for resistance to the solvents in some scents, plastic worms or other lures. It is a good policy to use clear epoxy as a top coating for non-resistant paints.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul]
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[font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][size 3]Two part epoxy clear coat[/size][/#0000ff][/font]
[font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][size 3][/size][/#0000ff][/font] [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]LACQUERS:[/#ff0000]. Fast drying and readily available in a wide range of colors from most hobby and craft outlets. Good for a quick paint job but not durable. Easily chips off when lures/jigs are impacted by rocks or other structure. May even disintegrate within the tackle box if painted surfaces are agitated against other jigs/lures, etc. Also easily damaged by scents and solvents. You should always use a clear epoxy finish to minimize problems with lacquers.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]ENAMELS[/#ff0000]. Pretty much the same as lacquers. Inexpensive, fast drying and available in a wide range of colors…but subject to chipping and dissolving…unless epoxy coated.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][size 3][/size][/#0000ff][/font] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]VINYLS:[/#ff0000]. These are great products for lure painting, since they bond well with almost all surfaces...including lead and plastic. The clear vinyl paint is especially well suited for mixing with glitter, for painting sparkle heads, and for mixing and applying glow powders. These paints are fast drying and the final finish is tough and resists chipping. Even though vinyls are fairly resistant to plastic solvents, it is still a good idea to give them a final coat of clear epoxy.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul] [left][/left] [left]Vinyl Paints...1 oz.


Vinyl Paints...4 oz.


Vinyl Paint...Clear...4 oz.


Vinyl Paint Thinner...4 oz. [/left] [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]FLUORESCENTS[/#ff0000]. These are available in several colors, in lacquers, enamels, and vinyl paints. You should always use a good white undercoat before applying any fluorescent color. Fluorescent paints usually have a “flat” finish when dried…and are subject to degradation by oil scents and plastic solvents. Finishing them with a coat of clear epoxy paint not only helps protect them, but adds gloss too.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul]
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[font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][size 3]Fluorescent Lacquer...4 oz.[/size][/#0000ff][/font] [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]GLOW PAINTS[/#ff0000]. These glow in the dark after being “charged” with a flashlight. They are designed for night fishing or for fishing in murky water and/or during low light conditions. As with fluorescent paints, they should be applied over a white base. They may also require frequent stirring, during use, to insure complete mixing of the glow ingredients with the carrier paint base. NOTE: Glow paints are available in several colors. But, the color of the glow will not always be the same as the color indicated on the bottle. Even “pink” glow paints will usually glow green. Also, most glow paints are fairly weak and do not hold a “charge” very long. You can get much better glow results by using quality glow powders.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul]

Vinyl Glow Paints...4 ox.
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[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#ff0000]OTHER BASE PAINTS/COATINGS/COLORS:[/#ff0000][/font][/size] [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]POWDER COATS[/#ff0000]. To use these, the metal jig head must be heated to a high temperature and then dipped or dusted with the powder. Then, you must reheat the coated jig head for several minutes to “cure” it. This melts the powder to form a hard, resistant single color coating. A good finish, but slower and more error-prone than paints. Usually plugs up the hook eye. Good for base coats or basic colors but not as good for eyes or fancier designs. However, powder paints are now available in glitter and glow products, as well as a transparent coating for extra gloss and protection.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul]

Powder Paint...2 oz. [ul] [li][size 3][font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][#ff0000]PLASTIC DIPS[/#ff0000]. Sold as protective paints for hand tools, and other applications, these thick rubbery materials are usually only available in a very few colors. Like powder coatings, unless you paint them instead of the intended dipping, they clog the eyes on your jigs. They work, but are not the most highly recommended.[/#0000ff][/font][/size][/li][/ul]

[font "Times New Roman"][#0000ff][size 3][/size][/#0000ff][/font] [ul] [li][#0000ff][#ff0000]LURE DIPS & MARKERS:[/#ff0000]. These solvent-based coloring liquids are designed to be “quick fixes” while upon the water…not as permanent base colors for jig heads. However, when you are stuck with the wrong colors during a hot bite these dips and markers will allow you to make quick and temporary color changes to help get you into the action.[/#0000ff][/li][/ul]
[#0000ff]Lure and Blade Dip[/#0000ff]
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[#0000ff]Quick Coat Lure Markers

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