04-03-2008, 05:26 PM
[cool][#0000ff]These things show up in a lot of my reports and I have had some questions lately about how to make them for new tubes. So, here is a writeup and pics from several tubes and models.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]For most of the 5 plus decades I have been fishing from a float tube, I have been tinkering with different ways to attach rods to my craft…both for storage and for fishing. My earliest attempts were simple tubes of plastic or metal, lashed on with rope or straps. In later years I have gone through a progression of different rod racks and single rod holders.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Since Utah instituted the two pole permit, I have experimented with several different designs for single rod tubes that would allow me to drag a bait on one rod while fishing lures…or another bait…with a second rod. The most effective designs are such that the bait rod is positioned slightly out to one side and at an angle somewhere between horizontal and vertical. It is a matter or personal preference.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]I am attaching some pics that show the basic components, and how I attach it to my tube. In a nutshell, I first install a piece of 2” X 2” wooden block, inside the front of my pockets…by running long screws through the outside of the cover and into the blocks on either side. Once they are secure, I mount the PVC for the baitriggers on the front of the blocks. Of course you always need to be careful of the angle you run the screws. Screws and inflatables do not mix. Sometimes it is good to let air out of the tube a bit to be able to position everything right without having to fight against the fully inflated tube. Also good to drill pilot holes in the PVC before running the screws through with a power driver.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]On most of my earlier models, I used PVC cement to glue everything together, once I “THOUGHT” I had everything just right. But, once on the water, with everything fully inflated, I often found that I was not 100 percent happy with the position of the rod tube. Tough to reposition after it is glued. So, I started using half inch machine screws to lock the adjustable elbows into place, and then I could reposition them if I wanted. Works much better. [/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The sequence is to first screw the horizontal cross piece of ½” PVC into place, and then to screw on the ½” to 1” elbow. Then glue the bottom part of the 2” connector of 1” PVC. Last, use the screw to attach and position the 60 degree angle elbow. The 12” rod tube is attached and removed on each trip. Stow it in your pocket and set it up as you get ready to go. Then, when you come back in, remove it and stow it. No gluing unless you want to.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]When dragging bait, I leave the bail open on my spinning reel, and tuck the line under a paper clip secured to the rod tube with either heavy rubber bands or a piece of surgical tubing (lasts longer). The tension should be adjusted so that the line does not pop out under light pull from dragging through the water…but is easily popped when a fish takes the bait. You let the fish run a bit, while you reel in the other rod. Then you flip the bail, set the hook and take care of business.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]I have also used the baitriggers for dragging a crawler rig for walleyes and for dragging around a bubble and fly rig for trout. It works for a lot of different applications. The main considerations are that the rods are easy to reach and extract from the holders, but that they are positioned so that they cannot be easily yanked from the tubes by fish. I have had cases where I have had two fish on two rods, and have had to leave one rod in a holder while fighting the second fish. As long as you concentrate on keeping the rod pointed right, and have the drag set right, you will usually be able to land both fish.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The short piece of “stabilizer” PVC that I extend out from the horizontal cross piece helps keep the whole rig from being pulled down by a big fish. It rests against the air chamber (if properly installed) and adds a lot of strength. The whole setup is rock solid when the air chambers are aired up fully and the rig is well adjusted and fastened tight.[/font][/size]
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[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]For most of the 5 plus decades I have been fishing from a float tube, I have been tinkering with different ways to attach rods to my craft…both for storage and for fishing. My earliest attempts were simple tubes of plastic or metal, lashed on with rope or straps. In later years I have gone through a progression of different rod racks and single rod holders.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Since Utah instituted the two pole permit, I have experimented with several different designs for single rod tubes that would allow me to drag a bait on one rod while fishing lures…or another bait…with a second rod. The most effective designs are such that the bait rod is positioned slightly out to one side and at an angle somewhere between horizontal and vertical. It is a matter or personal preference.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]I am attaching some pics that show the basic components, and how I attach it to my tube. In a nutshell, I first install a piece of 2” X 2” wooden block, inside the front of my pockets…by running long screws through the outside of the cover and into the blocks on either side. Once they are secure, I mount the PVC for the baitriggers on the front of the blocks. Of course you always need to be careful of the angle you run the screws. Screws and inflatables do not mix. Sometimes it is good to let air out of the tube a bit to be able to position everything right without having to fight against the fully inflated tube. Also good to drill pilot holes in the PVC before running the screws through with a power driver.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]On most of my earlier models, I used PVC cement to glue everything together, once I “THOUGHT” I had everything just right. But, once on the water, with everything fully inflated, I often found that I was not 100 percent happy with the position of the rod tube. Tough to reposition after it is glued. So, I started using half inch machine screws to lock the adjustable elbows into place, and then I could reposition them if I wanted. Works much better. [/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The sequence is to first screw the horizontal cross piece of ½” PVC into place, and then to screw on the ½” to 1” elbow. Then glue the bottom part of the 2” connector of 1” PVC. Last, use the screw to attach and position the 60 degree angle elbow. The 12” rod tube is attached and removed on each trip. Stow it in your pocket and set it up as you get ready to go. Then, when you come back in, remove it and stow it. No gluing unless you want to.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]When dragging bait, I leave the bail open on my spinning reel, and tuck the line under a paper clip secured to the rod tube with either heavy rubber bands or a piece of surgical tubing (lasts longer). The tension should be adjusted so that the line does not pop out under light pull from dragging through the water…but is easily popped when a fish takes the bait. You let the fish run a bit, while you reel in the other rod. Then you flip the bail, set the hook and take care of business.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]I have also used the baitriggers for dragging a crawler rig for walleyes and for dragging around a bubble and fly rig for trout. It works for a lot of different applications. The main considerations are that the rods are easy to reach and extract from the holders, but that they are positioned so that they cannot be easily yanked from the tubes by fish. I have had cases where I have had two fish on two rods, and have had to leave one rod in a holder while fighting the second fish. As long as you concentrate on keeping the rod pointed right, and have the drag set right, you will usually be able to land both fish.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3] [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The short piece of “stabilizer” PVC that I extend out from the horizontal cross piece helps keep the whole rig from being pulled down by a big fish. It rests against the air chamber (if properly installed) and adds a lot of strength. The whole setup is rock solid when the air chambers are aired up fully and the rig is well adjusted and fastened tight.[/font][/size]
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