06-29-2003, 11:22 PM
[cool][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]In my endless quest to trick out my craft, while keeping the additional weight at a minimum, I keep buying and making new versions of rod racks. I have still not found a perfect solution to the need to hold extra rods safely and securely out of the way, while making them readily accessible when I want to change tackle.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Here is a review of three options. One is my own homemade rod rack…made from 1”X2” wood and 1 ¼” PVC pipe. It is heavy, but functional, since it was designed to do exactly what I wanted it to do. The second is a very light and inexpensive three-tube holder made by AFI, and available through many sources for about $10. The third is a more costly 4-tube model I got from Cabelas, but is also available elsewhere.[/font][/size]
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[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]HOMEMADE: Cost…about $5 in materials and about 4 hours in cutting, fitting and finishing. 4 rod-holder tubes…1 ¼” inside diameter…11 ¾” long. Width…24 inches. Weight…a heavy 3.2 pounds. Not a good add-on if you need to carry your craft a long distance to launch site. But, the exact size and cut needed for the tackle I use.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]3-TUBE AFI: Cost…$9.99 plus shipping from BassPro. Three rod tubes…1 ¾” inside diameter and 10 ¾” long. Width….12 ½”. Weight…a thrifty 13 ounces. Ideal for minimizing weight but still allowing for multiple rod trips. [/font][/size]
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[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The main downer is that there are reel slots only in the front, and these are too narrow to accommodate anything besides spinning reels. [/font][/size]
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[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Even after customizing by cutting wider slots and wrapping the slots with duct tape, to keep the reels higher in the tubes, the butts of the rods were subject to getting water soaked, and the reels subject to being dunked by low waves. Because the tubes are bonded to the frame, there is no provision for raising them on the crossbars…to make the reels ride higher above the water.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]4-TUBE FROM CABELAS: Cost…$28 plus shipping.. Four rod tubes…1 ¾” inside diameter and 11 5/8” long. Width…18”. Weight…only 1.8 pounds…about half of the homemade rack.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Shipped in a package 24” X 4”, and must be assembled. An easy job with only a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Reel handle slots both front and back…wide enough to take bait casting as well as spinning. [/font][/size]
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[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Front slots too long for float tubing applications, and need some duct tape to keep the reels up higher. I also redrilled the mounting holes and raised the tubes about 2” higher on the frame. Note the use of a mini bungee cord for attaching the transducer rod.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Customized 4-tube unit...with raised tubes and duct tape to raise the reel position. Note the use of blue parachute cord and plastic clips to create a quick attach/release option...when run through the available D-rings. Also note the change of location of the red bungee cord for mounting the transducer.[/size][/font]
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[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Here is the actual mount on my Fat Cat, with the transducer rod secured by the red bungee cord. It is quickly attached or detached for transportation or packing, but holds firmly in place for fishing applications. Note the excess space in the tubes, which are larger than necessary for most freshwater tackle.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]FINAL OPINION: It is cheaper in materials to make your own, but a lot more time consuming and you end up with a heavier rod rack…with the wood and regular PVC pipe. You can also get just the right inside diameter for the rods you use, and cut the reel handle notches to your own personal preference. If you don’t mind doing some custom recutting of the slots on the 3-hole model, you can have a serviceable and very light holder…but with inside diameter on the tubes that is a bit larger than needed for most rods. The 4-tube system is more serviceable as it is shipped, but still has the large diameter tubes. It is easily customizable to raise the tubes and is much lighter than the homemade version.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]NEXT GENERATION: To convince rod holder manufacturers to make models more suited to floatation fishing…or find lightweight tubes and frame material that can be used to create our own lightweight rod racks, without using wood or heavy PVC.[/font][/size]
[signature]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Here is a review of three options. One is my own homemade rod rack…made from 1”X2” wood and 1 ¼” PVC pipe. It is heavy, but functional, since it was designed to do exactly what I wanted it to do. The second is a very light and inexpensive three-tube holder made by AFI, and available through many sources for about $10. The third is a more costly 4-tube model I got from Cabelas, but is also available elsewhere.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]HOMEMADE: Cost…about $5 in materials and about 4 hours in cutting, fitting and finishing. 4 rod-holder tubes…1 ¼” inside diameter…11 ¾” long. Width…24 inches. Weight…a heavy 3.2 pounds. Not a good add-on if you need to carry your craft a long distance to launch site. But, the exact size and cut needed for the tackle I use.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]3-TUBE AFI: Cost…$9.99 plus shipping from BassPro. Three rod tubes…1 ¾” inside diameter and 10 ¾” long. Width….12 ½”. Weight…a thrifty 13 ounces. Ideal for minimizing weight but still allowing for multiple rod trips. [/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]The main downer is that there are reel slots only in the front, and these are too narrow to accommodate anything besides spinning reels. [/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Even after customizing by cutting wider slots and wrapping the slots with duct tape, to keep the reels higher in the tubes, the butts of the rods were subject to getting water soaked, and the reels subject to being dunked by low waves. Because the tubes are bonded to the frame, there is no provision for raising them on the crossbars…to make the reels ride higher above the water.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]4-TUBE FROM CABELAS: Cost…$28 plus shipping.. Four rod tubes…1 ¾” inside diameter and 11 5/8” long. Width…18”. Weight…only 1.8 pounds…about half of the homemade rack.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Shipped in a package 24” X 4”, and must be assembled. An easy job with only a Phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Reel handle slots both front and back…wide enough to take bait casting as well as spinning. [/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]Front slots too long for float tubing applications, and need some duct tape to keep the reels up higher. I also redrilled the mounting holes and raised the tubes about 2” higher on the frame. Note the use of a mini bungee cord for attaching the transducer rod.[/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Customized 4-tube unit...with raised tubes and duct tape to raise the reel position. Note the use of blue parachute cord and plastic clips to create a quick attach/release option...when run through the available D-rings. Also note the change of location of the red bungee cord for mounting the transducer.[/size][/font]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3][/size][/font]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Here is the actual mount on my Fat Cat, with the transducer rod secured by the red bungee cord. It is quickly attached or detached for transportation or packing, but holds firmly in place for fishing applications. Note the excess space in the tubes, which are larger than necessary for most freshwater tackle.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]FINAL OPINION: It is cheaper in materials to make your own, but a lot more time consuming and you end up with a heavier rod rack…with the wood and regular PVC pipe. You can also get just the right inside diameter for the rods you use, and cut the reel handle notches to your own personal preference. If you don’t mind doing some custom recutting of the slots on the 3-hole model, you can have a serviceable and very light holder…but with inside diameter on the tubes that is a bit larger than needed for most rods. The 4-tube system is more serviceable as it is shipped, but still has the large diameter tubes. It is easily customizable to raise the tubes and is much lighter than the homemade version.[/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"]NEXT GENERATION: To convince rod holder manufacturers to make models more suited to floatation fishing…or find lightweight tubes and frame material that can be used to create our own lightweight rod racks, without using wood or heavy PVC.[/font][/size]
[signature]