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question about my old outboard
#1
I went to load up my 1970 6horse evinrude this afternoon and found about a half a cup of grease under it. After a little inspection I found a little hole on the underside of the lateral wing shaped rudder just above the prop where there was still grease leaking out. I know it wasn't gear lube because I just changed it. This was thicker and more clear looking stuff. I sealed up the hole the best I could however I am not sure where to replace the lost grease. As you can probably tell I don't know much about motors. Can anyone tell me where to replace the lost grease? Danzilla how much do you charge to go through an small outboard? Besides this problem It could probably use a checkup.

I am also looking to replace this with a used long shaft motor from 6 to 10 horse power. If anyone knows where to get one please let me know.

Of the subject just thought I would add I went to Rockport on Sat. and caught a bunch of trout trolling rapalas near the top. They rangrd from 12-20 inches. The fishing was best along the south side.


Thanks for the help
Cableguy
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#2
Make sure you get that outboard checked out before using it again. You may be out of lubricant, or you may have sealed a hole that wasn't meant to be sealed.
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#3
Mine does the same thing every now and then. Usually after a long day of trolling on my 85hp. Just unburned oil and exhaust is what I was told. I think Kent maybe right. You might have sealed a hole that wasnt supposed to be sealed.
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#4
[red][size 2] Hi there Cableguy, I have a 1968 Johnson 6 hp kicker. This motor does the same thing that you are talking about. I have to agree with Teroy, I'm thinking this is pretty normal. I change the foot lube about every 3rd or 4th time out.[/size][/red]

[#ff0000][size 2] AFDan52[/size][/#ff0000]
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#5
I don't have a boat anymore but I ran outboards for years, and two of them were Johnsons(same as Evinrude). They do tend to leak an oily sludge-like stuff after sitting around for a while. The gas-oil mix in outboards does not completely burn. As evidence of this just watch the calm water by your motor when it is idling or even just sitting and you will notice a small oil slick on the water. That is the unburned gas and oil. Later when you take the motor out of the water it will continue to drain. And yes, there are drainage holes designed specifically to let that stuff out. So be sure the hole you plugged is supposed to the plugged. You will probably see the the top-most part of the drainage is coming out at at place ABOVE your lower unit. The lower unit is the only place where there is a reservoir of oil that should always remain full.

One other thing to consider: Sometimes the float bowl in the carburator is designed to let unused gas drain out when the motor is tilted back. I used to find this most annoying because I would forget and a little gas would run into the back of the boat. That is why I usually made a point of disconnecting the gas line and running all the gas out of the motor before leaving the lake.

Hopes this helps.

m
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#6
Thanks for the info on my leaky outboard guys. I think it will be ok, I ran it for about five hours today at Hyrum and it ran great. I know the leak isn't drive oil because it is more like a translucent whitish goo. I tried to post some pics of where the hole is. It is right in front of my finger on the pics it is only about the size of the eyelet on a #8 trebel hook. I hope I didn't seal up the wrong thing. The hole didn't look like it was there on purpose and I have never leaked that type of substance before. It usually only leaks a little black crap out of the exhaust hole. If anyone can tell by my pics if this hole is supposed to be there please let me know.

Hyrum was kind of slow, I only boated 3 trout al about 16in All fish were caught trolling in the southeast area of the resevoir. Didn't try for bass or perch.

Thanks, Cableguy
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#7
second try at posting pics

cableguy
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#8
o.k. first things first , your half way thru the pic posting process right now . next step click on the attachment file name , your pic will now come up on a new screen , copy it ( hold your arrow over it or left click your mouse and select copy , either one will work )

next go back to your original post by hitting " back" in YOUR toolbar .

next hit "edit your post " , once in edit mode right click once where you want the pic to appear in your post .

now left click and hit "paste ".

next hit , "make changes". your pic will now be in the post .

[Image: gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=95;]
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#9
now for the hole question .

milkey white means the lube is being blended with the water . is this hole machine drilled ( but not in the actual drive unit that holds the lube ) ? if so it would be a drain , unplug it .

some models came with a saftey plug , if water frose in the drive the hole acted as a saftey valve it would pop out , this type i would reseal .

if you did not drain and replace the lube before last winter storage , any water that may have remained frose in there . as long as the metal casting did not crack from expantion you may be o.k. it may simply a job of ,

1 replacing the o ring at the fill and drain plugs. with age or over-tightning, it must be done .

2 replacing the gaskets or using some silicone on the old gaskets to refurbish the seal .

3 did you overfill when you put the lube in ? heat=expantion = pressure . some of the lube may have been forced out from the pressure , you may have to re -do the gaskets because the seal has been comprimised .

it only takes about an hour at the most to re-do the seals and do an inspection , it can take days or weeks to find replacement bushings and gears destroyed by wear from a diluted lube .

if the hole appears to be from a crack , you might be able to weld it with some aluma-weld . iv'e seen these rods at flea markets , welds alumimum with a propane toarch , works great . or find a replacement part . j.b. weld is a good tempoary fix , but only tempoary .

hope it helps , i've done my fair share of working on old motors , i can't afford a couple grand for one of these new jobs yet . the old ones work just fine for me !
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#10
[#ff0000]Was off goofing around and found this:[/#ff0000]

[red]SERVICE TIPS![/red] Are you suspicious that your gearcase is leaking because you see black oil "leaking" around the propeller or collecting on the garage floor under the lower unit? Relax, because 9 times out of 10 what your seeing is simply the residual lubricating oil running down out of the exhaust housing. When the motor is running, the unburned oil (95% of it) gets mixed with the cooling water discharged into the midsection's exhaust tube. Here it collects as an foamy emulsion, especially if the motor was used for extended period at low speed. After you put it up, the water evaporates, leaving the oil to run down and out the weep holes and the exhaust hub.

[red]B[/red]est check first that the oil IN the gear housing is O.K., simply crack the lower screw and let a little out. It should be light to medium brown in color, and at least translucent.. Lighter, opaque and creamy colored indicates water intrusion. Inky black & burnt odor - - it's past due for a change. 100 % water, Bubbly grey-black gleep, under pressure, metallic colors, bad odors indicate serious problems. Unsure? Contact the Mastertech! At any rate, change the oil every 50 running hours using a high quality lube such as OMC's Ultra HPF and you shouldn't have any problems.

[#ff0000]The whole link is at: [url "http://www.maxrules.com/fixgearcase.html"]http://www.maxrules.com/fixgearcase.html[/url][/#ff0000]
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#11
those are simply check holes they are there to drain the oil that doesn't get used (sometimes thats an indication of running to rich) but if you were trolling all day then you probibally wasn't running it at full throttle to use up all the oil and subsequently it was running down with the exhaust. its normal I get it in both my motors.
I'd check the oil in the lower unit and make sure its ok and run it and watch it.
some of them holes are an indicator of a bad water pump or seals but as long as your gear oil is ok thats all I'd watch for. DZ
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