07-07-2003, 08:51 PM
[cool]It took some creative drilling, screwing and refitting, but I think I have what I want with the 4 tube rack I got from Cabelas. This is the original configuration, put together according to the precut holes and the diagram:
The next pic is a front view, after final modifications, to allow attaching to my Fat Cat without the rod handles dipping into the water. That does not help cork handles at all. Note the duct tape, which raises the reels up a couple of inches from the bottom of the original slots. Also, notice the repositioning of the tubes on the cross supports. The top holes were originally al the bottom of the slot. There are extra holes from my experimenting. An on the water tryout suggested I needed just a little more height. If you can measure, drill and refit properly, it is a quick job.
The next pic shows the back side of the rack, and the simple attachment setup using parachute cord and a cheap 49 cent clip and ring. I run each of them through D rings and then bring them together and clip them. Quick on and off, and easily adjustable for balance and position.
The next pic shows the latest system of attaching the shaft for the transducer...using a short length of inexpensive bungee cord, rather than the broom clips I have been using. There are many kinds of this elastic cord, with different kinds of hooks and fasteners on the ends.
The last picture shows how I attach the transducer rod to the rack, by looping the elastic cord around the shaft and hooking it upon itself. It is firm enough to hold steady, but loose enough to raise and lower easily...and it attaches and disconnects quickly.
If anyone wants specific directions or has special question, feel free to PM or email me. These applications can be used for a variety of addons...for tubes or 'toons.
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The next pic is a front view, after final modifications, to allow attaching to my Fat Cat without the rod handles dipping into the water. That does not help cork handles at all. Note the duct tape, which raises the reels up a couple of inches from the bottom of the original slots. Also, notice the repositioning of the tubes on the cross supports. The top holes were originally al the bottom of the slot. There are extra holes from my experimenting. An on the water tryout suggested I needed just a little more height. If you can measure, drill and refit properly, it is a quick job.
The next pic shows the back side of the rack, and the simple attachment setup using parachute cord and a cheap 49 cent clip and ring. I run each of them through D rings and then bring them together and clip them. Quick on and off, and easily adjustable for balance and position.
The next pic shows the latest system of attaching the shaft for the transducer...using a short length of inexpensive bungee cord, rather than the broom clips I have been using. There are many kinds of this elastic cord, with different kinds of hooks and fasteners on the ends.
The last picture shows how I attach the transducer rod to the rack, by looping the elastic cord around the shaft and hooking it upon itself. It is firm enough to hold steady, but loose enough to raise and lower easily...and it attaches and disconnects quickly.
If anyone wants specific directions or has special question, feel free to PM or email me. These applications can be used for a variety of addons...for tubes or 'toons.
[signature]