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This question kind of goes along with my thought, in an earlier post, about getting a new casting set up specifically for Crankbaits.
Right now I have a 6'6" Cabela's Fish Eagle II; MH fast action (i think) tip. It is sporting a Shimano Citica filled with 14 lb fireline. What I'm wondering is, will the fireline decrease my distance with cranks more then it would with florocarbon or mono? If I could account for lost distance with new line I would consider doing that rather then forking out the money for a new set up. I like the idea of having one rod that can do almost anything over having multiple rods for specific tasks.
Thanks
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Unless you are jigging in deep water or fishing near stump beds or heavy cover I don't see a reason for using braid, especially with cranks. I find that fluoro or mono on the right rod can handle any situation. With cranks you want something that will give a little so you don't rip the hooks out of the fishes mouth, braid has no stretch at all and if your rod does not absorb the shock of a hard hit you can rip the hooks right out. Most of my fishing is in clear water so I prefer to use P-Line fluorocarbon, 6-14 lb. test. I use 6-8 on my spinning reels and 10,12 and 14 on my casting reels. You can get away with using heavier fluoro because it has the same light refraction as water (sunlight does net 'bend' when it shines on hte line).
I love the way flouro casts compared to braid. I have never had a problem with lengths of casts using it. I have never had a perfect fishing line for all conditions. I suppose that is why I have so many rods and reels. I do have a spool of 30# Spiderwire braid in my boat at all times because I never know if I'll need it. It has a teflon coating on it and casts like a dream but it's not....appropriate? for the type of fishing that I do.
What type of fishing do you plan to do with the braided line? Species, depth, structure, baits, weight etc.? Braided line has it's place but not as an all around fishing line. Of course, this is just my opinion and we all have different ways of fishing. I lean towards the 'finesse' style so braided line is out of the question for me. Speaking of questions, what was this about?[crazy] lol
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That actually helps with my decision a good bit. I originally planed an getting a rod that I could load with Floro and use for cranks. Then would have one rod with the fireline for jigs and worm rigs. So it looks like I'm back to looking for a new rod and reel. I think I have figured out what I want though so its just a matter of getting to or ordering form Cabela's or bass pro.
Now that you mention that the line needs to be able to absorb some of the impact from a hard strike. I was at Lake Powell last Auguste and I was using a popper to catch bass and I noticed I was missing a lot of strikes that I thought the bass had taken the whole bait. I think that the lack of stretch in the line might have been pulling the hooks right out of their mouths. I guess that's as good a reason to get a new rod and load it with Floro.
Thanks for your help
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Honestly, it comes down to matching the rod & reel & line to the type of bait you are throwing, the type of fish you are targeting, water clarity, structure, etc.
There really isn't a "one size fits all" rig unless you are putting on a bobber and tossing in a night crawler.
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Crankbaits, I will agree mono, probably is the best option, sometimes you need the extra stretch to make the crankbait work its action capable of triggering big fish strikes... Also, it allows better hook set without hooks being ripped out like someone already suggested....
Guys, here is my input on all these lines...
Fluorocarbon: Newest and greatest fishing line on the market, the feel is incredible because there is no stretch at all which allows you to feel the slightest little bite... Basically, invisible underwater and line diameter is smaller than Monofilamant... Only dislike, it can be hard to handle on the reel (meaning if you don't have complete control of the line, good possibility that you will get alot of line twists and tangles)...
Mono: Old, stretches and dosen't last very long on the reel... Crankbaits I still prefer mono over the rest, allows stretch to provide the best action for the bait, less break offs and no hooks ripped out of the lips....
Braided lines: some braided lines are perfect because there is virtually no stretch at all and line control on the reel is very easy... I hardly get any tangles or backlashes using braided lines... One dislike, the lighter lines under 6lb test will fray very easily causing fish to brake off when you think everything is perfect... This is a line defect and not your fishing skills...
Air Resistance: Very simple, heavier lines are more air resistance than lighter lines because of the diameter... When your throwing into the wind, it can be a difficult challenge to provide the distance that you want your lure to reach... Lighter lines will provide the max distance for any lure when there is wind....
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Dude, In Utah all water is clear(except Utah Lake). We use invisible line or flurocarbon. I use it with topwater just don't let sink. Move your bait right away.
You need to hook up with Fish4fun or me. Either one of us can show you lots of stuff.
This is a topwater fish on fluro
![[Image: 7032_1050559561108_1739336322_103088_7133348_n.jpg]](http://hphotos-snc1.fbcdn.net/hs223.snc1/7032_1050559561108_1739336322_103088_7133348_n.jpg)
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I think I have pretty much decided to go with floro. I want to change out the line on my old one for floro as well.
I would like to go out with somebody that knows whats going on in the bass fishing world. I have some knowledge about it but there is still a lot that I want to learn. Once the ice lets up and the fishing can begin I would like to get out there with one of you two.
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Maybe all three of us can go together. I'd like to fish with tomegun, he is a great bass fisherman and I'm always learning as well.
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Yeah for sure that would be a blast!
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hey fishforfun i was looking at p line the other day and the diamater just seems so thick compared to other lines have you noticed that at all? and im looking to go with a few bass experts myself so if you have extra spots let me know!
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I think you might want to go a touch longer on the rod you're using for crank baits. I would also switch out to fluro line instead of braid. If you really want to use braid go with tracerbriad. It is a lot smoother a much more round which I have found to help increase casting distance. Also give a line conditioner a try. I use Reelmagic and it seems to help a little bit.
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Yeah that rod mentioned in this post isn't going to be used for cranks anymore. I just ordered a new rod specifically for crankbaits. Its 7' long with a moderate action. And I think I'm going to load it with mono for cranks (mainly for the extra stretch). The rod in this post has been striped of its fireline and will be soon getting a fresh coat of Florocarbon on its spool, Bass Pro XPS to be exact. It will be used for jigs and worms now. I will look into the line conditioner. Thanks for the help!
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Casting distance is a super-complicated formula, convoluted by all sorts of laws of psysics...
Lots of the aspects are similar to ballistics.
Line - the smaller the diameter, the less aero drag... BUT, the lighter the line, the less momentum it has and thus it slows down in flight. For this reason, braided line in large sizes kills casting distance. How limp or wiry a line is will also be a factor with friction through the guides of the rod.
Lure - the lighter the lure, the greater initial velocity off the rod... BUT, heavier lures tend to keep their velocity over time and are less effected by wind resistence. Generally speaking, a heavy, dense lure will travel furthest... this is why it's hard to bomb a crankbait. Rattle traps will cast a lot further because they are sleeker and have no lip to resist the wind.
Rod - Longer rods generally translate to longer casts... the mechanical advantage of the rod is increases in a linear fashion in correlation to the rod length. Almost just as important as the length is the action. Try throwing a 1/8 oz lure with a flipping stick and see how far the lure goes.... not too far because the lure isn't heavy enough to load the rod. If casting distance is important to you, throw lures that are close to the upper limit of your rod. The more the rod is bending, the further your casts will travel.
Technique - self-explanatory
Reel - The weight of your spool in your baitcaster is also a factor. Light lures (1/4 oz and smaller) are difficult to get the spool spinning in the beginning of a cast with a baitcaster. There are several aftermarket kits available in Japan to compensate for this... special bearings and spools. Most of the time, we compensate by turning the brakes up... but that kills casting distance, too.
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You pretty much covered it in your post. Nice job.
It's tough, in my opinion, to have one or two rods / reels / lines that will cover every type of condition or fishing technique that you might want to do on a given day, or throughout the day while you are on the water. I don't think there is a magic "one size fits all" type of combination.
Martini78 makes a good point though, about the flipping stick and a 1/8th ounce lure. You use your flipping stick with heavy # line and a big lure in heavy cover, and if you try to load it up and cast it far with a light lure, you are going to have some very short casts, and very likely some spectacular backlashes. Unless of course you are very good with the thumb and have one hell of a reel.
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All we need is some soft water and I'm game.
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