where to pick up tackle/jig building supplies

[Jedburton]

Hey I am planning on starting to put together some more tackle and jig building supplies. I just got my catalogue from cabelas and was wondering if there are better places to pick up supplies that would save me some money on either molds rods lures or just hooks and such. I have to keep my budget a little lower now that I have the truck to pay off. any help would be greatly appreciated,

Jed Burton
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[petty4life]

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/ try this site nomoose gave this one to me
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[kastmaster]

Jed,
If you live in the Provo/Orem area, the Wal-mart by UVSC is having a clearance on some of their tackle like jigheads, jigs, crawler harnesses, etc. I picked up a couple of Ratl-traps for $2 each to try. These Ratl-traps are lipped and supposed to float. Maybe good for bass (SM and LM). Check it out if you can. A lot of the area stores (Wal-mart, K-mart, Target) are clearing out some of their fishing stuff since to them it's the end of the season. Believe it or not, Target in Orem carried a bunch of Luck-e Strike crankbaits this year. I was able to pick up five or so (less than a buck each) when they went on clearance. Sportsman's Warehouse in Provo always have a bargain bin in the back of their store near the electronics.

kastmaster

[TubeDude]

[cool]I buy lots of stuff from Cabelas...when they have it. They have cut way back on both their rod building and lure making stuff in the past couple of years. They sell more electronic toys and clothes now.

Janns Netcraft is a good source for most of what you want, but they are more expensive on molds and hooks than Barlows, of Richardson Texas. Here is a link to them:[url "http://barlowstackle.com/"][#0000ff]http://barlowstackle.com/[/#0000ff][/url]

Barlows is also a great source for some hard to find plastics. They also have some pages on help for making and fishing lures, rod building and other things good to know.

Shoot me a PM if you need any technical stupidvision.

Good luck in your new ventures. You're a lost man now.
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[petty4life]

THANKS TUBEDUDE ILL ADD THAT ONE TO MY LIST
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[Theekillerbee]

I've noticed that the Sportsmans in Provo sells lure building supplies. They had a bunch of colors of paints, and various assorted tapes/spoons/spinner/beads. I haven't seen any supplies at the other stores though.
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[TubeDude]

[cool]It's the old game of supply and demand. If a store is in an area where there are some tackle tinkerers, they will stock what they can sell. If something doesn't sell, it hits the special bin and is replaced by something else that will generate revenue.

In a recent echat with James, at Hooked Tackle, he advised that they carry some supplies there too. But, they gave up stocking the molds because there just aren't that many "moldy" buyers. You pretty much have to go to the catalog places.

But, do shop around. Cabelas is about "middle of the road" on mold prices. Janns is the highest, and Barlows is the lowest. Cabelas has good prices on hooks and Barlows is better on some than Cabelas. Janns, again, is the highest. But Janns prices on most rod building components are better than either Cabelas or Barlows.

If you want to make the Roadrunner jigs, you need "crane" swivels...in size 10 and 12...size 7 for the big boys I crank out in my new mold. Barlows has all three sizes in bulk, at the best prices.

Cabelas is the place to go for bulk quantities of the little blades I use for the Roadrunner jigs and some small inline spinners I make. However, Janns has the largest selection, including some fancy new stuff. Barlows spinner blades seem slanted toward making big bass baits or walleye rigs, with no small stuff.

I buy a lot of wire from Cabelas...in sizes ,022 to .050. The smaller diameters is good for trout spinners and is easier to work with. The larger sizes I use in molds for spinner baits and buzz baits...or wherever else I want a more rigid wire.

By the way, if you learn how to work with wire, you will never have to buy bail springs again. I haven't bought one for years, and have several extras made up for the reels I use.

Sorry...got off on a tangent. That's my input.
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[tomegun]

[#800000][size 2]Hey Jed, the another place that Ihave from. Try Stamina, they are a lure building/supplies catalog company(this what the front page of their catalog says[]). Go to [url "http://www.Staminalnc.com"]www.Staminalnc.com[/url] or 1-800-546-8922. They a wide variety of jighead styles at reasonable prices. [/size][/#800000]
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[petty4life]

hey jed i just got back from hooked and i picked up some jig making stuff, talked with james the owner and he sat down and showed me some tricks on making jigs. thanks again james i got in trouble when my wife found out how much i spent
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[HFT]

[][] O'ladies will do that to ya, I hope it was not too painful.
How did the tying go? still have the whip finish down?
Don't forget to remind her that jigs will only cost 30 cent instead of 99.
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[dragonflylures]

Probably WAY late on this but I'm working on my website [url "http://www.dragonflylures.com"]www.dragonflylures.com[/url] on adding not only jigs/sinkers/lures for those who don't want to make their own but helping anyone who does and providing the means at very cheap prices. It started out as a hobby -- found out I'm good at it and 400 molds later and 100,000 hooks it has turned into a business. Let me know if I can help in any way.
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[tailgrabber]

If you are planning on making jigheads a great place for cheap or even free supplies will be at your garage or tire shop. Ask them if you can have or even buy their old tire weights, I did and now I have a lifetime supply of lead weights ready to be melted.
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[TubeDude]

[cool][#0000ff]Sorry, but that may not be good advice. If you only pour large and simple jigs and lures, the tire weights will work okay. But, since they are not pure lead, they melt at a higher temperature and sometimes cool too quickly to make good molds of small or detailed jig heads. They add other metals to the lead in tire weights to increase the strength, and that affects the melting properties. So, you do not get good clean barbs on the plastic holding jigs...especially the smaller heads.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]If you look around, and let people know that you are looking for some pure lead, you would be surprised at how many people have a bunch of it sitting in their garage...from a family member who used to be a plumber or electrician or some other trade that used a lot of pure lead.[/#0000ff]
[#0000ff][/#0000ff]
[#0000ff]I recently acquired a lifetime supply of lead from a BFT member on the Utah board who is in the construction business. He was involved in a job building a new hospital and they had lead lined walls for the Xray room. Lots of leftover scrap lead in big sheets.[/#0000ff]
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[tailgrabber]

I did notice that using the tire weights I had to pour a lot faster.
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[TontoG]

[center][font "Verdana"][#800000]Common Bullet Metal Melting Temperatures[/#800000][/font]
[center] [font "Arial"]Metal[/font] [font "Arial"]Melting Temp.[/font] [font "Arial"]Notes:[/font] [font "Arial"][#000080]Lead (Pb)[/#000080][/font] [font "Arial"]621 degrees[/font] [font "Arial"]Weight, ductility, obturation.[/font] [font "Arial"][#000080]Tin (Sn)[/#000080][/font] [font "Arial"]429 degrees[/font]
[center][font "Arial"]Reduces surface tension of lead alloy melt, better mould fill-out. Reduces the melting temperature of lead. "Slight" hardening & strengthening effect.[/font][/center]
[font "Arial"][#000080]Antimony (Sb)[/#000080][/font] [font "Arial"]1,166 degrees[/font] [font "Arial"]Hardens lead alloys, extremely brittle.[/font] [font "Arial"][#000080]Linotype[/#000080][/font] [font "Arial"]464 degrees - solid 465 degrees - liquid[/font]
[center][font "Arial"]Casts very well with it's 4% tin, No expansion on game, poor choice for steel targets. Poor choice for light and mid-range loads[/font][/center]
[font "Arial"][#000080]Foundry Type[/#000080][/font] [font "Arial"]619 degrees[/font] [font "Arial"]Extremely brittle. NO expansion on game, shatters on steel targets.[/font] [font "Arial"][#000080]WW (clip-on)[/#000080][/font]
[center][center][font "Arial"]463 degrees [/font]
[center][font "Arial"]slushy To[/font]
[center][font "Arial"]505 degrees molten[/font]
[/center]

[center][font "Arial"]Contains enough arsenic/antimony to enable hardening by heat [/font][font "Arial"]treating. Heat treating WW alloy with 2% tin added increases [/font][font "Arial"]hardness / strength without adding brittleness as in linotype metal[/font][/center][/center]
most of the lure casters think that pure lead is better.....WW and other alloys actually fill in mold detail better and have lower operating temps.....google lead alloy melting temps and see for yourself
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