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Rod Rack Tinkerin'
#1
[cool]Went fishing (not catching) Saturday. A few SMALL bluegill were the difference between skunked and merely frustrated. We hardly saw any fish on the sonar and did not see any large fish marks at all. The water temp was still over 80 degrees, with a lot of weed growth. Need some cooler weather to drop the temps and kill off the weeds.

I did get to test out the lastest model of my ongoing quest to find the perfect rod rack for float tubing. As I have written, in previous reviews, I have gone through all of the commercially available rod racks and I am mostly disappointed in their potential for tubing. They almost all have tubes that are too large for my rods (inside diameter)...but do not keep the rods high enough to keep the handles out of the water. The slots molded into the plastic tubes, to hold reel handles, are usually too small, and must be widened. But, they are usually too deep, and must be duct taped to keep the reels from wedging down into the notches.

In the first pic attached below, I have labeled some of the modifications I made to try to get the $30 piece of plastic to work on my Fat Cat. No matter what I did, the rods rattled around loose and often tipped over into my casting and operating space. And, in spite of duct taping the reel handle notches and raising the tubes higher out of the water, the rod handles could still get dunked in the water.

Picture 2 shows one of my more recent assemblies of burned and finished wood with PVC pipe. This 1 1/4" PVC is just about right for most fresh water reels...unless you are talking baitcasting with pistol grips. One of my new trials is some vinyl tubing to hold the 1/2" PVC transducer shaft. It works, but I think that 1" vinyl tubing...or a piece of 1" garden hose...would work better. I plan to give the larger stuff a try. I secure the shaft by looping a small bungee cord up and around the shaft to hold it in place.

Picture 3 features not only the attachment of the vinyl tubing, but the slot cut into one or more tubes to allow a fly reel to slip far enough down into the sube to be stable...even without a fighting butt. This slot has to be custom cut to fit the handle and reel combo you want it to fit. Too large and loose and the handle could pop out. Too snug and it could damage the cork on your rod handle, or bend something on the reel. Properly fitted, it lets you take a fairy wand out for a varied tackle day.

The fourth pic shows my latest modification of the wood and PVC rack, installed and working. The last pic is a closeup, showing how I was able to raise the tubes higher out of the water by dropping the top cross support down a couple of inches and reattaching the PVC. The Reels all ride above the pocket level on my already high-riding tube...and there is almost no chance of soaking the rod handles.

The main conflict I have with my current setup is that it is still heavier than I think it needs to be. I have some very light plastic tubing, Just over an inch in inside diameter...about half the weight of PVC. And, instead of heavy wood, I am going to try some lightweight plastic molding...using only one strip about 3" to 4" wide. If I can find suitable fasteners, I can fashion a good lightweight system that can be left permanently lashed to the D rings even during transporting.

I doubt that I will ever be totally weaned from my obsession with PVC, though. We have been a team for too long.
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#2
Thanks for the great info TD! That's a great new setup you've got. I want to build myself a rod rack for use next year (maybe I'll have some time over Christmas break this year to make it). I would never have more than 3 rods with me at a time -- 2 spinning rods and 1 fly rod. Most of the time I'd probably only have 1 spinning and 1 flyrod. Do you have any suggestions/tips for me? I saved your pictures to help give me a better idea.
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#3
[size 2]On my pontoon float I have two pvc holders ( 1 left 1 right ) for holding the poles then another smaller pvc for net holder.[/size]

[size 2] Then through Bass Pro Fishing I got this 2 pack of pole holders which I mounted on the front for trolling. Works great![Wink][/size]

[size 2] Nothing like trying something out and getting a nice big Halibut first time out.[/size]

[size 2] I saw your Eagle FF. Does that run off normal batteries ( AA,C or D ) or do you have to keep a small 12v battery onboard?[/size]

[size 2] I was curious. I am pretty sure I am going to get that fishing buddy which runs on D batteries.[/size]

[size 2] My friend has had one now for 2 months and has had good luck with it. My ole wireless one is ok but not as reliable as the other normal ones.[/size]

[size 2] Where is your transducer??[/size]
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#4
[cool]If you are not in a big hurry, I will be trying a couple of new arrangements as soon as I have the garage time available.

Also, PM me with the specs on your craft...Make and model, distance between outside D Rings, etc. I might be able to find a hand-me-down that will work until you come up with a design of your own. I have made several smaller models of two and three tubes...if "friends" and family haven't talked me out of all of them.

The good thing about PVC is that you can buy a bunch of it for lunch money. Depending on where you like to eat. The key is to know how to rig the cross supports to simultaneously provide a firm base for the tubes and to attach firmly to the tube...so that the rods ride in an upright position.
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#5
[cool]Hey FF, the transducer is at the bottom of the shaft...that 1/2" PVC tube in the middle of the rod tubes. I have attached another pic to the bottom of this reply.

My Eagle runs off a 12V SLA (gel cell). Your friend may like the Fishing Buddy, but he is in the minority. We all tend to like what we are familiar with, and if he has not tried other sonar systems it is understandable.

Before you make a final decision, I suggest you find a dealer that sells the Cuda 168. They will usually have one hooked up to a battery and let you play with it in "Demo Mode". You can see the output and the different types of options on the menu. I don't know of any other system that has that particular "tutorial" going for it.

But, again, we are all entitled to our own preferences and presonal opinions. Good luck with whatever you decide upon. And, we expect a full review...good, bad and ugly.
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#6
I'm in no hurry. Thanks for your generosity TD. I think I'd like to build my own, but I would definitely welcome some help in the specs and how-to area. I would feel bad accepting another gift from you. I don't want to be like any of those "friends" you refer to. You've already given me so much. I too, am glad that PVC is so cheap. My wife won't complain if I spend a little on it. Smile I'll PM you when I get the specs on my craft. It's a Stillwater donut with a truck tube. I'll measure the D-rings, etc. Hopefully we can come up with a good design that will work for me. Thanks again. Again, I'll PM you, maybe tomorrow, when I get the info.
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#7
I really like what you have done with the special fly rod slot. Good thinking TD. Good luck next time you head out.
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#8
Hey TD,

Recently got a flat on my kenebec. so I am taking the time to make new rod

racks for the shark donut.... will send you pics when I get done with them. Keep

in mind I fish saltwater. I do notice you like your rods upright...ever think

of strappin' the rods on horizontally?[Smile]
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#9
[cool]Hey, Halibut, my friend, good to hear from you. The answer is yes, I have toyed with the horizontal mounts. A lot of the bassers in the bay area seem to like this arrangement too. My experience was that for the types of fresh water fishing I do most, the horizontal racks are not as practical. If I am working my way through standing trees, or along brushy shorelines, the more that sticks out from my craft, the more I have to deal with the elements. In our part of the country, much of what we find along the banks has stickers and hooked spines. A snagged rod can be pulled out of the rack or broken if you aren't careful.

The vertical rods can be a problem sometimes too...but there aren't many bridges to go under or overhanging trees.

We look forward to seeing your new setup.
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#10
[cool][size 2]Hey TubeDude,[/size]

[size 2]How about a rod holder that takes less than 3 minutes to make and best of all it inexpensive. One only needs a piece of piping wrap (styrofoam) and a length of strap to fit around your float tube.[/size] [size 2]How about that beer can!
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#11
[cool]CREATIVE, INNOVATIVE, RESOURCEFUL...AND REFRESHING.

Of course the choice of labels on the beer can could lead to some differences of opinion. We fishermen are often pretty biased in our preferences.
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#12
would a different cut help with the rod holder in the pvc ?

strait down two inches , then left or right about an inch or so then strait down again .

or

a threaded end piece with a threaded connecter ring ( ring will end up as a "c"), cut them as your original design , twist to lock or unlock .
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#13
[cool]Hey, LoneDude, the goal is simplicity, not complications. Feeble-minded fishermen don't wanna be looking at shifting diagrams...or figgerin' out the old "RIGHTY TIGHTY...LEFTY LOOSY" thing when they are just gettin' a fishin' pole outta their tube.

And, if the fisherman has been emptying a few of those cans, to make up some of those creative holder things, he just may not have the focus and concentration necessary to pass one of those on-the-water sobriety tests.

I appreciate your constructive suggestions. Now, get out of the house and go fishing. You got way too much time on your hands.

Another thought occured to me. You still ain't a float tuber, but you are just full of suggestions...among other things. Reminds me of the guy with ten kids asking his priest for an okay to use birth control. When the priest said it was not allowed, the guy then asked him..."Hey, how come you get to make the rules when you don't play the game?"
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#14
not tuning !!!!!!!![shocked]

i'll have you know mr. quackers has been put up due to the opening of duck season ![unsure]

i'be been fishing both coasts this weekend , kings on one side coho's the other . [crazy] local lakes this week .

and by the way , i'm borrowing your rod rack idea and mounting it onto my old golf caddy ( not the lil' woman either ) it will have a milk crate bottom and YOUR rod rack attached to the handle [Tongue]. i may be a little skinny , but i eats a bunch , that crate will hold the snacks , coffee , fly and spawn vice and other junk .

don't think of sneaking over to grab it either , lojack is being installed on it next week . lol !
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#15
just you wait to see what I build, hehehehehehe[sly]
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#16
knowing you , a self propeled ice shanty , main parts being snow skis , little red clown cat that fits 40 other clowns and a trained seal . canvas from the big top , one automatic garage door opener , t.v. radio and micro-wave , d.s.l. , one laptop computer hooked up to a 4 x 8 plasma screen , two coolers and one five gallon bucket .

am i close ? lol !
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#17
lol now you're talking about flagmans style of Ice fishing.

I am looking at toobdudes pole rack and I am looking at how to modify it for my style of fishing.

right now it is just a thought forming in the brain, but I have an idea that involves a pair of skis a sled dog a broken lawn chair

in flagmans country they park mobile homes on top the ice. you should see them things. they are nicer than my house.
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#18
i saw a dog or mushers sled in the trash a couple of weeks ago , thought anout it and decided that the lil woman has been thru enough of my " cool progects " for a bit .
it was pretty darn temptinh thou , oh the possibilitys !
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#19
[cool][size 1]Hey TD,[/size]

[size 1]Was looking to buy some strapping to connect my rod holder to my float tube. Couldn't fine the appropriate type of strap so I decided to make my own. Bought a few yards of 1" strapping and 2 quick connect buckles from Wal*Mart. Strapping was .78cents per yard and the buckles were $1.96 each. Since the straps are made of polyester, the application of super glue made a secure bonding of strap to strap. Results were very favorable. See photo.[/size]
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#20
[cool]Looking good.

I've played around with that kind of strapping myself. It does work well and can be measured to an exact fit. That makes for a quick and easy off and on when you are setting up or taking down.

Only downside is that if you don't have it securely attached to a frame or D ring, it can rotate around the air chamber...especially if you lose a bit of air.

If you have not already done so, you might want to leave one end of the strap with an adjustment buckle...to allow for stretch, etc.

Are you about ready to get launched? The local trout habitat is just about ready for your attention.
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