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I installed a new master cylinder on my surge brakes but I can't get the one side to hold pressure with my brake bleeding tool. I checked all connections and checked the lines for leaks, but I wasn't able to find any. I'm thinking maybe my wheel cylinder is leaking (though not visible), or the t-fitting is leaking (non visible leak) where my one break lines t's off to each wheel? Any ideas? So far I have been able to get brake fluid back to the wheel in question, but when the surge breaks are engaged the brake does not move. Any ideas would be helpful.
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Go to Harbor Freight and buy a vacuum bleeder kit. They come with directions and you don't have to mess with trying to apply them with the surge apparatus. I'll shoot you a PM.
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I am using a vacuum bleeder tool, but as I apply suction, the pressure bleeds off as if there's a leak somewhere. The other side pulled fluid through the line and held at a certain pressure. But I'm not seeing any visible leaks, and I do get some fluid through the one side that's in question, but when I apply the surge brakes to see if they work, the brake pads don't engage.
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From what I'm reading, they must be disc brakes. Sounds like the vacuum is sucking air in around the rubber cup behind the piston. If that's the case, you'll need to replace the cup at least and, worst case, the entire caliper if the cylinder bore is corroded.
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They're drum brakes. As for the pump itself I know it works because it held pressure (didn't leak) while bleeding the right side.
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Have you pulled the wheel and the drum off on the side in question? It sounds to me like you either have a problem with the brake shoes or the wheel cyl on that side.
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I did pull the drum off and everything seemed normal. I didn't see any leakage from the wheel cylinder, but I don't know where else there could be a leak. I may just replace the wheel cylinder and see what happens. Granted the wheel cylinder on the outside was rusty, but I think if I could get the lines to hold pressure it'd work.
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It could be the pucks are stuck on the wheel cylinder. Have you tried jacking up that side of the trailer and turning the wheel with the brake applied? Did you just buy this trailer? Have the brakes worked in the past?
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Yeah I tried that but the tire spun freely. I bought this boat last year, but the brakes haven't ever worked. I just didn't get around to getting a new master cylinder until now.
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If the break line splits at the back by the axle instead of having two seperate lines run to the back then it has to be the wheel cyl. especially if your getting break fluid through the bleed port.
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Sounds like I'm on the right track then. Thanks.
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I'm not a big fan of the cheep vacuum bleeding kits like the HF one. Tried to use it myself, and it kept leaving air in the line. I was able to do the line closest to the Surge Brake Actuator, but could never get the one furthest away to work to my satisfaction. I ended up having my step son work the Actuator, and bled the lines manually.
Also, there are a couple great sites on the net that have the entire brake assemblies at a good price. I wouldn't mess with parts replacements when you can do the entire thing minus the drum for less than $100 each. This includes the newer swing away units that allow you to back up without blocking your Surge Brake Cylinder. I can PM you some info if you would like. Did mine a couple years back and it went quite smoothly with the new parts minus the issues with the bleeder.
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you have a failure in your weel cylnd they have two seals a prime and a secondary your prime is bad it wont leak to the eye its loosing pressure on the main seal...ase cert brake teck,,any issues let me know be glad to help ya
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Well I'm in it now $100 with the new master cylinder. I think I've just about got it figure out. I was leaking air through the zerk, so I put some teflon tape on the threads and was able to hold pressure with the brake bleeding tool. But now that I think I have the lines bled, my wheel won't rotate a full revolution, the brake is engaged even though the surge brake isn't "on". I have the brake adjusted to its least allowance, so I'm really surprised the pads are engaging the drum. I'll have to pull it apart again and figure it out.
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Still sounds like those little pucks are sticking in the wheel cylinder, not allowing the shoes to release from the drum. How hard was it to put the drum on? I don't see how the drum would even go on, if the shoes are spread too far apart.
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The drum went on as normal. I think it stuck the first time I engaged the brakes, pushing the pads out, consequently sticking.
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Update: I figured out the problem. One of my wheel cylinders was rusted solid. I went ahead and replaced both (on per wheel), bled the lines, adjusted brakes, finished!
Also, the reason I wasn't able to hold pressure on my brake bleeding tool was because I was leaking through the threads of the zirc when i loosened it. A little teflon tape and some grease took care of that issue. Hopefully this will help someone else out there!
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