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Steelhead rod
#1
So I have always wanted one but never got one and tried it, prob because its so far to go to do it. But i Have some cousins who live in oregon and planning a trip to idaho next year. Found a great deal on a rod and need to know if it will work for what I need it too. I know pretty much nothing about steelheading but what Ive read the last couple of days but the rod is a 12'6" 7wt. Any suggestions about that size of rod, the company says thats what he uses so Im guessing thats the right size.
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#2
Contact Caddis Fly Shop in Oregon. Lots of youtube videos. They know what they are doing.
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#3
I got the same rod you're thinking about buying from AFF (I imagine it's from there). I paired it up with RIO Scandi short versitip line in the 7wt 425g with Airflo Ridgeline 30# shooting line. I have both RIO and Airflo shooting line. Beginning a beginner myself, I liked the softer airflo line a lot better then the RIO although it probably won't last nearly as long. I was able to cast quiet a bit further with it just from the feel. The double hand rod world is a totally different world. For the price, you can't go wrong with that rod! Paired up with an Alpha III or Kraken, you should be good to hit the river. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!!! Both river left, and river right, and there's a LOT of casts I'd recommend you learn for every situation. Have plenty of flies!!! Be ready for the new addiction to spey flies also! Wink Check out http://speypages.com/speyclave/. Great resource for everything you need to know on steelhead, gears, flies, locations, etc.
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#4
Sweet thanks for the info, I just orded it, and yes its from allen fly fishing. Sweet deal at 40% off, I hope to get a kraken but Ill just use my alpha ll for now. You still around if so we will have to go out sometime. Heres the link if anyone else is thinking about getting one.
http://www.allenflyfishing.com/olympic-rod-series/
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#5
Anything for you man. I did have a problem with my Alpha II reel with the RIO .024 running line. When casting, the running line would find it's way through the reel where the gap between the spool and the housing is. It happened 1 out of 5 times... I sent it back to AFF and they swapped the housings which helped... But it still is a problem with that thinner running line. With that said, order the .030 running line. I never had the airflo line do it (.030). I also had a chance just recently with my Alpha II where I was pulling line off the reel to cast, and the drag just started to free spin.... Had to break everything down on the spot to see what happened, everything was tight, not a clue what happened. Put it all back together and it hasn't happened since...? Really strange. Hoping something was just loose that I didn't see and fixed it.

I wish I was still around in Utah, currently in New Orleans. I'm getting depressed seeing everyone post up they're heading to the salmon river the past few weeks... [Sad] I wanna go SOOOOO BAD!!!! It's hard finding rivers wide enough around us to practice casting. There's a few places on the weber near morgan fair grounds that are fairly wide. Otherwise I'd just hit a community pond or lake to practice.
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#6
So you have backing, then the running line and then you just put one of those tips on right. I was looking at them on ebay and thats what it seems like you do. I prob wont be going till next year so that should give me some time to practice. Hope everything is going well for you out there, let me know when you get back and we can go hit the water.
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#7
Back yes. Running line all depends on what you get. If you buy shooting heads (skagit or Scandi) you'll need a running line also. If you buy a mid belly (unispey) which has a longer head, the running line is part of the head, all in one. All depends what you want. Being new to spey, you're not going to know what the hell you want. That's the hard part. Only way to find out is to try them all! Wink
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#8
Ok, what has been stated here is reasonably accurate, but not completely. First things first. Why do you want a two hander? If you intend to Steelhead only once or twice, save the cash and just buy a one hander. Lots of succesful anglers use one handers. I still use them frequently. That being said I love two handers. I have several, including a 4-wt I use on trout waters. Hell, I throw size 20 drys with it. Seriously don't expect to go out on your first adventure and master a two hander. It's like learning all over again. You're going to suck, again. But, it will make you a better using a one hander.

Lines for two handers are not like just going and getting a X weight forward full floating bla bla. Every line has; a running line section, a belly, and a tip section. Then again so does a standard fly line. Just with "Spey" lines they are frequently separated. It's kinda the ala'carte of fly lines.

You need to figure out the water you intend to fish. It is very difficult to roll a Skagit over 90 feet. There are three basic line sets; traditional Spey, which has a long belly and can easily power 90 feet plus. On the other extreme is a Skagit which has a short heavy belly / head. It rips through wind and is very nice at short quick casts. In between is a Scandinavian. A Scandi is kinda all purpose. All of these, like any fly lines require backing. Don't scrimp on backing. If you get a good hit you can see backing quickly. It sucks to loose $150 of fly line because of poor backing. A traditional Spey line typically has an integral running line. Not many folks in the West use them. Maybe on the Clearwater but that's BIG ass water. There are Scandi's that also have integral running line. Rio AFS, for example is a great line and has integral running line. Skagits almost never have integral running line.

The tips referred to are interchangeable tips that float or sink. They have predetermined sink rates in Inches Per Second. You swap tips to target water columns where the fish are. It is not uncommon to carry 10 different tips. And shooting heads are a different thing entirely.

Like I said "Spey" lines are not Xwt bla bla. They are weighted by grains of the belly section. There are two basic ways to select the grain size. Try several out until you find what you like. Or, call the rod manufacturer and ask what they used to develop the rod. While not fool proof that is a good way to get started. On a 7/8 weight medium speed rod, you will likely go mid to upper 500's in a Scandi, and maybe into 600 for a Skagit. While you can probably cast a 400'ish grain nicely on the lawn or in a pond. When the wind picks up, not so much. My 7 wt Sage One is happy happy with a 625 grain Skagit or a 565 grain long belly Scandi. Scotties 9 wt War Hammer rips a 800 grain Spey.

Leaders are interesting. Sometimes I use a tapered leader, but frequently I just go with 6 feet of 30 lb fluorocarbon. Depends if I am swinging, chuckin streamers or indicator fishing.

Just remember two handers open Pandora's Box. If you want to know more PM me, or go buy Dec Hogan's book.
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