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Trolling motor advice-inflatable pontoon
#1
Hey y'all. I've been trolling the site this winter - I'm not a big fan of ice fishing, but the pics have been amazing!

Anyhoo...
I'm looking to set up my Buck's bags "Bronco" 8ft pontoon with a trolling motor. I'm certain I don't need more than a 30lb thrust, I only use it on lakes.

My questions are:

(1) is the Minn Kota "Endura Max" that much better than the C2? I mean, it's twice the price! I know it has variable speed and longer battery life, but really, is it worth that much?

(2) What battery to get? My fishing trips are generally 4 to 6 hours, on flat water. I'm going to be using the motor primarily for getting from one "sweet spot" to another, and back to the truck. (My boat is my exercycle, so I still plan on using fins most of the time)
How many operating hours do you typically get out of a size 22 or 24 battery?

(3) Golf cart battery? I've seen that mentioned here & there on the net. A smaller, lighter battery, but I don't know how long it would last. Anyone try one of these pint-sized power options?

(4) My boat already rides low - my cross bars are only an inch or so above the water. I seem to remember it riding much higher when I bought the boat last spring. Is there a way to adjust the way the frame sits on the pontoons? ( I checked myself on the scale, and I know it wasn't my beer belly causing this! I only weigh 180 anyway)
Thanks in advance for any advice you fine folks care to share!
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#2
I have been using an electric motor for about 30 years starting with a float tube and float power.
Minn Kota 30 will work fine on an 8 foot pontoon.
As far as C30 or the Endura Max (which looks like it is at least a 45lb thrust) it will all depend on how many hours you plan on using it in one day. This will also depend on the battery.
Smaller the battery, less hours. plus how hard you run it.
The Max do save on power, however.
I do use a C30 on my 8 foot Assault. I have got 5 to 7 hours using a small Werk battery, but I do not use the motor all day and when I do, seldom above 2
I prefer the bigger battery (Walmart 29 deep cycle) and I have never run out of power.
I also have a Maxxum 45 that adds about 3 to 4 more hours.

Advise to you is make sure to slide your frame up on the pontoons to balance it out with battery. Licensing will be around $35. give or take, so you need to either paint the numbers/letters they assign you on your pontoons, or use a piece of plastic and make plates. Make them visible like a regular boat. Have a PFD with you at all times. And have the motor Pull you not push, which means, if you mount it on the back, loosen the head and turn the bottom 180 so prop is facing same as handle.

Good luck and enjoy.
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#3
FlyGoddess has given you some excellent advice. I will only add a little of my experience. I use an ancient Minkota 25 on both a 9 ft NFO Renegade and a Fish Cat 4 float tube. I use a Costco deep cycle size 24 battery. I think it is about 84 amp hours. I usually just use the motor to get me to the area and back. While fishing I use my fins. I couldn't say how long the battery would last as I haven't ever run it out.

Be sure and turn your motor head around. An electric won't efficiently push your pontoon forward, but it does a great job of pulling it backwards.

Go to the Float Tube forum section and post some of your questions there also. It is as much or more on pontoons as float tubes. There are lots of great pictures on there of setups also.

http://www.bigfishtackle.com/forum/gforum.cgi?forum=81
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#4
Thanks to both of you for the pointers!

CPierce: It sounds like you use your motor the way I intend to use mine.
Oars works fine for my usual fishing holes, but I want to explore the Owyhee a bit, and that's too long of a lake to row it all. I will check out that section you linked as well.

FG: I have a couple of saved pix of a home-made controller, can't remember if I got it from you or Ron last fall. I plan on using something like that setup on my boat. I have a shoulder injury that makes reaching stuff behind me rather painful, so I want to have controls up front. And thanks for reminding me to turn the motor around!
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#5
You have already received good advice. I have a 40 endura and I use the series 27 battery. I also turned the head just like FG told me to do. I like to troll and the backwards troll is in my opinion the perfect way to troll. I have my rod in the holders and I am looking right at them I don't have to turn my head.
I will add that a remote on off switch as recommended to me by Tub Dude is also something you will want even though you don't know you want it.

http://www.amazon.com/T-H-Marine-Foot-Co...oot+switch

You set it up right by your seat or oars. When you wire it you can turn the motor on with just flipping the switch. You can shut it off the same way and never turn around. I tell you this is the way to go.

#1 I can't tell you I have only used Endura's. I wish I knew the answer.

#2 I got the Wallmart series 27 marine battery and it seems to work well. When I troll I am at .9 to 1.1 MPH. I can get 7 hours of pretty much constant trolling. If I just use it to haul as fast as I can I can get close to 7 miles if it is not windy or any current. Wind will reduce the length of time on the battery as fast or faster than current.

Even though I have the head on the motor turned backwards I run the boat forward. I used to run it on high backwards and let a leg drag in the water for a rudder. A friend of mine and I did a lot of testing last year. This is the method we use. Ron

#3 I need more power than that. I do a lot of river running and The wind always blows so I just need more power.

#4 Yes you can adjust where the pontoons sit and if you add a motor and battery you will need to make adjustments. Don't fret about it adjusting the pontoons is something we all had to do. Once you figure out where they need to be your good to go.
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#6
Thanks Ron. I guess I'll figure out the whole "adjusting the pontoons" thing when it's warmer. I know how to move them back & forth to balance the load, just not sure how to "raise" the load.
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#7
not much of a way to raise it except keep the toons tight. Ron
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#8
Wire Ribbon, and Radio Shack
[Image: Motor001.jpg]

Bucks Bag should be just fine by sliding he frame slightly forward. Here is a 6' Apline
(Note, not me in the boat [Smile])

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#9
That's what I was afraid of, Ron. Like I mentioned above, I'm only riding about an inch above the water as it is, and that's all leveled out. I don't carry much with me, one pole, 3 or 4 lbs of fishing gear, and a small cooler with (usually) 4 20 oz water bottles in it.
I'm concerned with how it will ride when I add 80-ish lbs of motor & battery.
But, I think I have been leaving the 'toons a tad soft when I launch, so that I can ignore them as the day heats up, without worrying about popping them. Maybe I'll just have to run them tighter, and pay attention.

FG: That's the pic I have saved on my PC, with the ribbon & switch.
I found a youtube video where a guy pulled apart the OEM minn kota switch, removed the handle, and stuck the minn kota switch in a box, similar to what you have.
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#10
Once your motor is mounted to move you backwards, it is locked in position and you use your fins to steer with. I don't change my motor speed much so I only use the remote on/off switch that IdahoRon linked to. No real need to reach around to the motor to steer or change things.
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#11
[quote monkeee2002]That's what I was afraid of, Ron. Like I mentioned above, I'm only riding about an inch above the water as it is, and that's all leveled out. I don't carry much with me, one pole, 3 or 4 lbs of fishing gear, and a small cooler with (usually) 4 20 oz water bottles in it.
I'm concerned with how it will ride when I add 80-ish lbs of motor & battery.
But, I think I have been leaving the 'toons a tad soft when I launch, so that I can ignore them as the day heats up, without worrying about popping them. Maybe I'll just have to run them tighter, and pay attention.

FG: That's the pic I have saved on my PC, with the ribbon & switch.
I found a youtube video where a guy pulled apart the OEM minn kota switch, removed the handle, and stuck the minn kota switch in a box, similar to what you have.[/quote]

The motor in this picture is 15 years old, I am still using it on my Assault.
You really should invest in an Air Gauge. So many people under inflate. Think of them as car tires. Equal air means ultimate ride.
Yours are Urethane and can take way more than Vinyl. I would say fill them semi hard and let air out if needed, don't expect it to inflate.

I agree with Cpierce about locking the motor in place and using fins to turn, but this motor not only offers the on/off, but you never have to turn to change speed (which will come up) or to go forward (say you just ran into an under water tree[Smile]).

The Wire ribbon was given to me, maybe a trucking repair company could have some. Box about $2.95 big radio knob $1.00. Silicone to glue the control in the box (and water proof wiring) $3.00.
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#12
cpierce: Yep, I've learned to drag a fin when I use my oars, so I can steer. I figured the same principal would apply to using a motor, also pushing on the oars (as Ron does).
That "on/off" switch, is it just wired into the power wire? Basically to interrupt the power supply?

FG: do you have a gauge that you recommend? What's a good pressure to use on 22oz. PVC
enamel coated polyester cover and a 100% polyurethane bladder?
I had been inflating them until I can bend the last 5 or 6 inches of the bladder about 75 degrees, but not quite 90 degrees. ( I know, not the least bit scientific!)
I bought my 'toon used, with no paperwork. So I've been wingin' it, and learning as I go LoL [Wink]

I know I need a new pump. The one the guy gave me with the 'toon is starting to "miss" now and then. Kind of frustrating to be pumping up your toon, watching fish jump, and all of the sudden your air pump turns into a useless plunger for a few seconds.
It's a Sevylor RB2000 dual-action pump, figured I'd just get another one before spring.
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#13
Yes, the switch is wired in to interrupt the power. I was going to make my own but the ones you can buy are inexpensive enough, and it's waterproof.

I think I got mine from Bass Pro Shops: http://www.basspro.com/Big-Foot-Trolling...uct/16071/

It was a little cheaper back then.
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#14
Thanks for the link!
I may look at putting both that switch and a speed control switch on. But it's good to know I can wire in that switch and try it out, to see whether or not I want to mess with the speed control.

But since I like taking Shhhtuff apart, I'll probably try to use both switches LoL
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#15
Outcast carries a few air gauges for pontoons.
So many people under inflate with anticipation of afternoon inflating the boat and I got to admit, I never understood that. I do understand the fear of popping though.
When I get to the water I put my slightly soft pontoon (soft from anticipated travel to higher elevation) in the water while I string rods and put on hippers, then I load the boat with motor and battery and whatever other gear. I then top of the boat to bounce a quarter off tight. If it is a very cool morning and the afternoon much warmer, I will cruise to a shore and let a little air out.
This is without a gauge, a gauge will take the guess work out.
As far as recommended pressure on your Southfork, I emailed Bucks to satisfy my curiosity, but you could call them.
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#16
Dave Klein from Bucks Bags got back to me. He said with the new black valves, the K-pump gauge is about the only one that works. He said 2 to 2.5 lbs. Firm no wrinkles.
Bucks are nice boats. My Alpine is probably 18 years okd and still used.
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#17
Thanks FG! I have the older gray valves though (just my luck!) I'll get ahold of Bucks and see what they recommend for my antique boat.
I need to talk to them about a motor mount anyways. My boat has an "optional anchor system", that puts a standpipe right dead center in the back, that will be in the way unless I mount the motor off to the side. And I'm guessing that without a true boat hull, that would cause it to drag me around at an odd angle unless I constantly compensate with a fin or paddle.
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#18
You would have to run with the motor slightly turned to compensate. Be easier to mount an anchor somewhere else.
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#19
I've only used the anchor twice, both times it was windy and I was too tired to fight it anymore LoL. With a motor, that shouldn't come up, so I'm just gonna ditch the anchor. Trying to troll against the wind with flippers is a sure way to get a good workout!
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#20
OK, so I talked to Dave Klein at Buck's today. INCREDIBLY helpful gentleman!
Since I bought my boat used, I don't know what "gen" it is, and apparently there have been some big changes.
He had me take some measurements and pictures, and is going to have to fab up a mount since my boat is so old, but he said it will only take a couple of days.

Now on to the motor. I've been watching CL for some "deals". There are plenty of motors, but no "deals".
I see 30lb thrust motors going for $100 used. I can get a new one for $110.
I see some older (white-top) Minn Kota motors going for $65-75.

I fail to see where saving $10-25 is worth not knowing how much life a motor has left. Am I missing something?
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