Posts: 172
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
Reputation:
0
I have an old penn 309, I would like to set it up for trolling with lead core.
I have 100yds of .029" core line. How many colors are typically spooled for Utah waters?
Don't know what the heck I am doing, Not sure if all 10 colors are spooled or not.
Thanks
[signature]
Posts: 172
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
Reputation:
0
Never mind, I decided to use all 10 colors
[signature]
Posts: 11,123
Threads: 4
Joined: Mar 2006
Reputation:
0
Posts: 1,985
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2007
Reputation:
7
That is typical for Utah waters !!. Now, a 309 should be able to handle the full 100yds plus some backing. I would suggest that you attach some mono leads to both ends of your lead core. Pull the covering on the lead back about 10-12 inches, baring the lead. break the lead off and then slide the end of a piece of 20- 30 lb mono into the dacron till it hits the end of the lead. Tie an overhand knot in the mono up close to the lead and another in the mono close to the end of the dacron. You now have a place to attach backing or leader. You can use braid for backing, use one close to the test of the leadcore. For your leader end, you can attach as long a leader as you want. A lot of lures will work better on a long leader. By getting them away from the leadcore which tends to impair the action of small lures like triple teasers, squids, etc. You can also use a dodger if you like now as the lead core will not impair it. I would also put a high quality ball bearing swivel on the end of your lead, a size 0 or 1 will go through the guides on most trolling rods and through the level wind on the 309. That will prevent twist in the lead core which is @#$! to deal with.
I used to set guys up for trolling for Stripers at Powell using their standard Penn 209/309 rigs that they were trolling with around here. I would back the lead with 150-200 yds 14-20 lb mono, the lead core, then a leader of up to 50 ft. of same lb mono. This was back in the day when the Stripers were running 10-15lbs and I had a couple of guys that had fish take them deep into the backing. Some of those big fish are still in Powell. You can also use your rig for Kokes at Strawberry and the Gorge, Wipers at Willard, etc etc. Give it a shot !!!
Posts: 11,123
Threads: 4
Joined: Mar 2006
Reputation:
0
I was wondering if maybe doing something like a nail knot would work for attaching a small piece of heavy mono to the lead core for leader would work.
[signature]
Posts: 172
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
Reputation:
0
Well, lucked out and a friend had an old 309 laying around I could borrow if I took off some awful steel braid line that was on it, Wow what a rats nest that was!
Got the steel off kinks twists and all, spooled it on a tin can in case he wanted to have me put it back on.
Thankfully he said no.
Put the core on first then filled with mono over the core (on his). attached mono to my empty spool and reeled in the whole deal onto my reel,
Worked pretty slick, now I have a loaded level wind core with mono backing at the proper fill point.
I will remember about the ball bearing swivel, I would not want to deal with twisted core, that twisted steel was enough to learn my lesson
thanks for the advice
[signature]
Posts: 3,301
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
Reputation:
0
Often times I like to troll lead core at Willard Bay. [url "http://www.ksl.com/?nid=1112&sid=34132198"]Easy simple way to catch both walleye and wipers out there early in the season[/url]. I am often asked, "why the heck would you want to pull lead core line in such a shallow lake as Willard?" The answer is simple, some lures, by design, just won't dive deep enough by themselves. But, often those lures that won't dive are the very lures that I want to troll along the bottom.
The problem with running lead core on such a shallow lake is that you only need about 2 colors out to get to the depth of Willard but that only gets you out about 40 feet. I like to be about 100-150 feet out when trolling. So I tie about 80 feet of 15 lb. braid onto the end of my lead core line and about 8 feet of 100% fluorocarbon leader onto the braid. That puts my lure down at the right depth and out the back the distance I like.
I use the same knot to connect the braid to the lead core as I do to connect the leader to the braid ... [url "http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/double-uni-knot/"]The double-uni-knot (also called the "back-to-back" Uni knot)[/url].
--- Coot ---
[signature]
Posts: 300
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2010
Reputation:
0
I run a similar setup. 2-3 colors of mono, depending my trolling speed, with a 40-50 foot mono leader with a crawler harness. Gets me right down in the strike zone at Willard and without the snags of a bottom bouncer.
[signature]
Posts: 1,985
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2007
Reputation:
7
A nail knot will work, but you end up with two tags that can hang up in the guides. To remedy that, you need to epoxy the knot so it will slide through. Another problem is that the knot will be much bulkier than the method I described !!
Posts: 3,301
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
Reputation:
0
Interesting Ken, I had never thought of pulling lead core as a delivery meathod for a worm harnes in stead of a bottom bouncer. Yes, interesting in deed.
What speeds do you troll that configuration? I assume that you can't troll it nearly as slow as a worm harness though?
(BTW ... I suspect you meant 2-3 colors of "lead core" ... not "mono".)
Thanks,
--- Coot ---
[signature]
Posts: 300
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2010
Reputation:
0
Coot,
I use a medium-light trolling rod with an Okuma line counter reel for my lead-core/crawler harness setup so I can see the light indication that the harness might be dragging bottom. It's a bit of a science project, but I've found that it is VERY effective out there. When the water cracks 75 degress and I slow my troll, it's the rig I catch most of my fish on.
I usually troll that configuration anywhere from 2.5 mph in the spring to 1.5 mph in the heat of the summer. 3-4 colors of lead-core out gets it down near the bottom at higher speeds, while 2 colors in the water keeps it in the strike zone at slower speeds. Including a 40 foot leader, I usually have between 100-140 feet of line out total.
I recommend mono as a leader since it's somewhat buoyant and will allow your harness to run parallel to the bottom.
Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions.
[signature]
Posts: 32,638
Threads: 383
Joined: Feb 2002
Reputation:
33
I have been using this method for years, minus the 40 ft leader, I use a 5 to 6 ft mono leader. Some years it works great but not every year. I caught one with this method a few weeks ago but I do much better trolling cranks.
[signature]
Posts: 1,985
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2007
Reputation:
7
I use my lead core rigs primarily for cranks for walleye. Rather than put a full 100yds, I have divided mine into 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 Color sections. I can pull off 2 colors and snap on 4 if needed. I use Ambas  or 5600 C reels with 150 yds 17lb mono backing. I can also add a snap weight if needed. Lighter rig, not as cumbersome, and versatile
I like the idea of pulling a spinner rig on the lead core. Will have to give it a try. Thanks for the info !!
Posts: 32,638
Threads: 383
Joined: Feb 2002
Reputation:
33
I have a question about your statement above:
[quote Therapist]Pull the covering on the lead back about 10-12 inches, baring the lead. break the lead off and then slide the end of a piece of 20- 30 lb mono into the dacron till it hits the end of the lead. Tie an overhand knot in the mono up close to the lead and another in the mono close to the end of the dacron. You now have a place to attach backing or leader.[/quote]
Do you put the overhand knot on the mono before you slide it into the dacron or over top the dacron and the mono? And why use 20 to 30 lb mono, is it because it is a thicker dia? I have used a similar method before but just used 10 to 12 lb mono.
[quote Therapist]I use my lead core rigs primarily for cranks for walleye. I have divided mine into 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 Color sections. I can pull off 2 colors and snap on 4 if needed. Lighter rig, not as cumbersome, and versatile
I like the idea of pulling a spinner rig on the lead core. Will have to give it a try. Thanks for the info !![/quote]
I rarely use cranks on my lead core line setup because I seem to have more snags when doing that at Willard, it also happens on worm harness rigs but they are cheaper to buy than cranks[  ]. So how do you store these lead core line sections, I can see a lot of value using sections of lead core line like this. Great idea.
[signature]
Posts: 172
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2010
Reputation:
0
Lots of interesting methods to try, quite a creative and knowledgeable bunch of folks on here.
Sure glad you guys don't mind sharing methods and ideas
Thanks
[signature]
Posts: 1,985
Threads: 16
Joined: Apr 2007
Reputation:
7
No, you slide the mono into the dacron, replacing the lead, then tie an overhand knot in both the dacron/mono close to where the mono hits the lead, then again at the front of the dacron. I make my mono tag about 18 inches, tie on a small ball bearing swivel, then attach my leader to that. I can adjust my leader length, material ( mono or fluro) and pound test. I usually use 10lb mono, but I have used 6lb when using small cranks like size 5 shad raps/flicker shads or F7 flat fish. I don't troll trout to much, but it works great with triple teasers, Jakes spin a lure's and other small, flashy baits.
When I had my shop, I had some stackable leader spools, like the ones you by tippet material on. They are about 4 inches in diameter with an 1 1/2 center, which allows me to wrap each section on a separate spool.
Posts: 32,638
Threads: 383
Joined: Feb 2002
Reputation:
33
Wow, the is simple and a lot easier than the way I did it, thanks for adding the pic, that helps a lot. Looks like an old line spool would work, I better start saving them instead of throwing them away. Great info, thanks for sharing it with us.
[signature]
|
