05-13-2011, 03:42 PM
Interesting post. Hope the comments below help. I think everything just depends on someones ORDER of preferences. Some things that are a bad design for some are a real pain for others!
[quote ydoc]<Sorry for the lengthy post!)
Hi guys (and gals), remember me? If you DO remember, it was about a about a year ago that I last posted… but health/medical issues have kept me away for a while (but that’s ANOTHER story).
I was also the one that fashioned my early-design PVC rod-holders so that they would accommodate my older pistol-gripped casting rods. (I was reminded that nobody uses those kind of rods any more… ) [crazy]
Anyway, a little over a year ago, I purchased a Creek Company ODC 420 off of the “net”. Using several ideas from this site (thanks TubeDude), I built a two-per-side rod holder. (Pictures attached.)
I mostly fish for largemouth bass, so I find myself –for the most part – fishing shoreline structure or timber. Using fins as propulsion, I’m usually fishing backwards. And since I’m right-handed, I prefer to cast out the left-hand side of my tube. By placing the “stand-by” rods in the LH holders, it allows me free movement on the RH side for my “back-cast”.
However, I like to take four rod/reel combos out with me, so I found the need to have at least a three-rod-holder rack per side. This would allow me to fish with one rod, and still have the three others rigged and ready on ONE side – depending on my casting direction.
I carry only a few small tools – needle-nosed pliers, hook remover, etc. – and those are usually stored in the tube’s pockets, so my rack needs are simple… they only need to hold the rod/reel combo’s I bring.
A lot of my fishing involves fishing farm ponds. Most require somewhat of a hike to get to the water’s edge. As such, it’s also important to have a system by which I can carry everything in one trip, and WEIGHT is also VERY MUCH a concern… This became apparent when I realized that had built the “old” racks out of schedule 40 PVC… which is MUCH heavier than the schedule 20 stuff!
Yes, the 3 most important things for the type of fishin you describe are weigh/volume....
Shifting gears here (stay with me)… [blush]
Although the ODC 420 had served me very well during the 2010 fishing season, I also had some become aware of a couple of its shortcomings… at least for me:
1) Pockets. Although the ODC 420 has plenty of storage space, the design of the pockets, and more specifically the zippered-openings, leave a lot to be desired! Why didn’t they design the zippers to be full-length (relative to the pocket), or U-shaped zippers to allow FULL access to the pocket? When your design places the zipper in the center of the pocket , then as you open it to put in a small tackle box, the ends of the zippers move towards each other (to allow the opening to open wider) effectively reducing even further the effective size of the opening! I managed by using smaller boxes, but just thought it to be a poor design.
The design does require smaller boxes, but the pockets keep their shape with the zipper design, and you are less likely to lose something overboard as you bring it something else out.
2) Air Valves. The ODC 420 has two bladders so it has two valves respectively, but they put the valves INSIDE of the pockets. Although a two-bladder system does have some inherent safety advantages, I found that this design presents two problems. First, the valves are not flush or recessed, so you actually lose some inside-the-pocket space to accommodate the valves. It’s not a LOT, but you can tell… Secondly, I transport my tube in the trunk of my Honda Accord. That means I have to deflate the tube to put IN the trunk, inflate it at the pond site, deflate it again for the ride home, and inflate it again when I get home (to aid in drying and to retain its shape). EACH inflation/deflation means that I ALSO have to empty/replace all that respective pocket’s contents to facilitate the inflation/deflation process. Besides being annoying, I’ve actually lost/left behind some items in the weeds around a pond, because of having to do this!
The valves can be accessed while on the lake unlike SFC, to make pressure adjustments with a small pump, according to shrinkage/expansion, no more going to shore when you find you're underinflated due to cold water.
I could never handle that many inflation cycles! The ODC is kept inflated in my garage loaded and with two short custom poles fastened flat (velcro), the tips poking out thru the opening at the pointed end. All chambers are inflated including the seat back, except the bottom seat. This allows the two main tubes to be pushed closer together, so the whole thing fits in the back of my hatchback Prius. When I get to destination, there is only the bottom seat to inflate. On return, just drain and dry with a towel and deflate the bottom seat to put the whole thing back in the car! There are clip on backstraps for the ODC that allow transport from car to/from river up to a mile away, but I don't have any brush that would block transporting the fully inflated tube to the site. Can you strap your boat to the top of your car with ratchet straps, so you can avoid all this hassle with inflation/deflation?
So in addition to wanting to build a lighter-weight, three-rod rack, I also started eyeing the Outcast Super Fat Cats. I purchased a new, but “pre-owned” SFC on eBay last December.
To resolve the light-weight rod rack issue for my new SFC, I purchased four Berkley rod holders – two needed for each tube (pic attached). The only issue was that my pistol-gripped rods had a slightly larger than 2” size, and the rod-holder opening was JUST 2”. But a quick “sanding” of the rod-grips provided just enough clearance for the Berkley holders to work.
OK, but now how do you mount this “flat” rack to the side of a “ROUND” tube?
Well, I built a simple “adapter” out of ¾” PVC (schedule 20 this time!) and bolted it to the rack. I used the same mounting mechanism that I used on the heavier, first-attempt PVC racks by cutting a notch in the PVC end cap and then drilling a hole to accommodate a retention pin. This time I used a simple – both in design AND cost – safety-pin type connecting pin. (Pictures attached)
The result?
The previous two-rod holder weighed 3.2 pounds, EACH. The new three-rod holder weighs in at a svelte 1.4 pounds! That’s a 3.6 pound savings on the two rod racks alone! (That may not seem like much, but when you’re carrying a bunch of gear a ¼ of a mile to get to a farm pond, EVERY pound counts!)
Yes, I use "U" bolts to make my holders or twist a spiral of flat metal bar which hold any pole except for fly type. Very light and simple.
Now what about the SFC vs. the ODC?
Pros: 1) Just from a “feel” perspective, the SFC “feels” like it’s better quality materials. 2) The pocket-design is FAR superior, and 3) I love the not-in-pocket valve access.
The pocket design on the ODC allows you to keep things separated in compartments, which makes things easier to find quickly.
Cons: 1) Just a personal thing, but I like the TWO bladder system on the ODC – if only just from a safety perspective. 2) I like the way that the ODC retains its “v-shape” better when I sit in the tube. I weigh at least 240lbs. with waders and all. When I sit in the SFC, it “brings IN the sides” and “pontoon points” more than the ODC. I attribute that more to the rigid foam seat and seat-back of the ODC vs. the inflatable “cushions” of the SFC. 3) I also like the flat apron on the ODC better (and yes, I DO realize that the “deck-type” apron is a new “innovation” on the SFC). But I think that after a few outings, I'll get used to the SFC apron.
The ODC can be converted to inflatable cushions and the seating adjusted so it is much more comfortable, plus you control how high out of water you sit and the point separation with inflation pressure.
Bottom line?
I love my new rod racks, they work GREAT!
The ODC 420 and the SFC are both great tubes… both have their advantages and divantages. Which is “better” will depend a lot on – I think – the USER’S preferences... and budget. My SFC cost nearly $250 more than my ODC 420. Yeah, I’m aware of the bladder quality, etc. – just noting that there’s also a significant difference in price; especially for those on a “budget”. Still, I don’t think you can really go wrong with either. And in any case, I now have TWO float-tubes, one for me and one for my wife or a buddy to go get some basses… [][/quote]
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[quote ydoc]<Sorry for the lengthy post!)
Hi guys (and gals), remember me? If you DO remember, it was about a about a year ago that I last posted… but health/medical issues have kept me away for a while (but that’s ANOTHER story).
I was also the one that fashioned my early-design PVC rod-holders so that they would accommodate my older pistol-gripped casting rods. (I was reminded that nobody uses those kind of rods any more… ) [crazy]
Anyway, a little over a year ago, I purchased a Creek Company ODC 420 off of the “net”. Using several ideas from this site (thanks TubeDude), I built a two-per-side rod holder. (Pictures attached.)
I mostly fish for largemouth bass, so I find myself –for the most part – fishing shoreline structure or timber. Using fins as propulsion, I’m usually fishing backwards. And since I’m right-handed, I prefer to cast out the left-hand side of my tube. By placing the “stand-by” rods in the LH holders, it allows me free movement on the RH side for my “back-cast”.
However, I like to take four rod/reel combos out with me, so I found the need to have at least a three-rod-holder rack per side. This would allow me to fish with one rod, and still have the three others rigged and ready on ONE side – depending on my casting direction.
I carry only a few small tools – needle-nosed pliers, hook remover, etc. – and those are usually stored in the tube’s pockets, so my rack needs are simple… they only need to hold the rod/reel combo’s I bring.
A lot of my fishing involves fishing farm ponds. Most require somewhat of a hike to get to the water’s edge. As such, it’s also important to have a system by which I can carry everything in one trip, and WEIGHT is also VERY MUCH a concern… This became apparent when I realized that had built the “old” racks out of schedule 40 PVC… which is MUCH heavier than the schedule 20 stuff!
Yes, the 3 most important things for the type of fishin you describe are weigh/volume....
Shifting gears here (stay with me)… [blush]
Although the ODC 420 had served me very well during the 2010 fishing season, I also had some become aware of a couple of its shortcomings… at least for me:
1) Pockets. Although the ODC 420 has plenty of storage space, the design of the pockets, and more specifically the zippered-openings, leave a lot to be desired! Why didn’t they design the zippers to be full-length (relative to the pocket), or U-shaped zippers to allow FULL access to the pocket? When your design places the zipper in the center of the pocket , then as you open it to put in a small tackle box, the ends of the zippers move towards each other (to allow the opening to open wider) effectively reducing even further the effective size of the opening! I managed by using smaller boxes, but just thought it to be a poor design.
The design does require smaller boxes, but the pockets keep their shape with the zipper design, and you are less likely to lose something overboard as you bring it something else out.
2) Air Valves. The ODC 420 has two bladders so it has two valves respectively, but they put the valves INSIDE of the pockets. Although a two-bladder system does have some inherent safety advantages, I found that this design presents two problems. First, the valves are not flush or recessed, so you actually lose some inside-the-pocket space to accommodate the valves. It’s not a LOT, but you can tell… Secondly, I transport my tube in the trunk of my Honda Accord. That means I have to deflate the tube to put IN the trunk, inflate it at the pond site, deflate it again for the ride home, and inflate it again when I get home (to aid in drying and to retain its shape). EACH inflation/deflation means that I ALSO have to empty/replace all that respective pocket’s contents to facilitate the inflation/deflation process. Besides being annoying, I’ve actually lost/left behind some items in the weeds around a pond, because of having to do this!
The valves can be accessed while on the lake unlike SFC, to make pressure adjustments with a small pump, according to shrinkage/expansion, no more going to shore when you find you're underinflated due to cold water.
I could never handle that many inflation cycles! The ODC is kept inflated in my garage loaded and with two short custom poles fastened flat (velcro), the tips poking out thru the opening at the pointed end. All chambers are inflated including the seat back, except the bottom seat. This allows the two main tubes to be pushed closer together, so the whole thing fits in the back of my hatchback Prius. When I get to destination, there is only the bottom seat to inflate. On return, just drain and dry with a towel and deflate the bottom seat to put the whole thing back in the car! There are clip on backstraps for the ODC that allow transport from car to/from river up to a mile away, but I don't have any brush that would block transporting the fully inflated tube to the site. Can you strap your boat to the top of your car with ratchet straps, so you can avoid all this hassle with inflation/deflation?
So in addition to wanting to build a lighter-weight, three-rod rack, I also started eyeing the Outcast Super Fat Cats. I purchased a new, but “pre-owned” SFC on eBay last December.
To resolve the light-weight rod rack issue for my new SFC, I purchased four Berkley rod holders – two needed for each tube (pic attached). The only issue was that my pistol-gripped rods had a slightly larger than 2” size, and the rod-holder opening was JUST 2”. But a quick “sanding” of the rod-grips provided just enough clearance for the Berkley holders to work.
OK, but now how do you mount this “flat” rack to the side of a “ROUND” tube?
Well, I built a simple “adapter” out of ¾” PVC (schedule 20 this time!) and bolted it to the rack. I used the same mounting mechanism that I used on the heavier, first-attempt PVC racks by cutting a notch in the PVC end cap and then drilling a hole to accommodate a retention pin. This time I used a simple – both in design AND cost – safety-pin type connecting pin. (Pictures attached)
The result?
The previous two-rod holder weighed 3.2 pounds, EACH. The new three-rod holder weighs in at a svelte 1.4 pounds! That’s a 3.6 pound savings on the two rod racks alone! (That may not seem like much, but when you’re carrying a bunch of gear a ¼ of a mile to get to a farm pond, EVERY pound counts!)
Yes, I use "U" bolts to make my holders or twist a spiral of flat metal bar which hold any pole except for fly type. Very light and simple.
Now what about the SFC vs. the ODC?
Pros: 1) Just from a “feel” perspective, the SFC “feels” like it’s better quality materials. 2) The pocket-design is FAR superior, and 3) I love the not-in-pocket valve access.
The pocket design on the ODC allows you to keep things separated in compartments, which makes things easier to find quickly.
Cons: 1) Just a personal thing, but I like the TWO bladder system on the ODC – if only just from a safety perspective. 2) I like the way that the ODC retains its “v-shape” better when I sit in the tube. I weigh at least 240lbs. with waders and all. When I sit in the SFC, it “brings IN the sides” and “pontoon points” more than the ODC. I attribute that more to the rigid foam seat and seat-back of the ODC vs. the inflatable “cushions” of the SFC. 3) I also like the flat apron on the ODC better (and yes, I DO realize that the “deck-type” apron is a new “innovation” on the SFC). But I think that after a few outings, I'll get used to the SFC apron.
The ODC can be converted to inflatable cushions and the seating adjusted so it is much more comfortable, plus you control how high out of water you sit and the point separation with inflation pressure.
Bottom line?
I love my new rod racks, they work GREAT!
The ODC 420 and the SFC are both great tubes… both have their advantages and divantages. Which is “better” will depend a lot on – I think – the USER’S preferences... and budget. My SFC cost nearly $250 more than my ODC 420. Yeah, I’m aware of the bladder quality, etc. – just noting that there’s also a significant difference in price; especially for those on a “budget”. Still, I don’t think you can really go wrong with either. And in any case, I now have TWO float-tubes, one for me and one for my wife or a buddy to go get some basses… [][/quote]
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