Ice Fishing Tip of the Day

[davetclown]

Good point, and should you have no other choice never wash your hands out of the same hole you are fishing in, (do it in your buddies hole )

you do raise a good point, there are a lot of things out on the ice that can spoil your line/hole, and much of it you take with you. Lantern or heater fuel, greased components from hand held equipment, even gas, oil, and fumes from power augers.

If one should get their hands in to something they don’t want to get on their bait, a bar of soap and snow will take care of most of the problem. I have done this my self and it dose work; you will not want to do this if you do not have a towel, lantern or heater.

I have gone as far as after washing my hands squirting my favorite fish sent on my hands and washing my hands again. I am not a fan of sending my bait down the hole smelling like an auto repair shop.

The kind of soap you use will also make a big difference as well, Now guys this is where the real danger comes in. Your reputation of being a man will be at stake should you get caught going where I am going to send you, so it is IMPERITIVE that you remember this should you get caught there and one of your buddies catches you in there from out side the mall window.

Where as a good disguise will help you not to be noticed, it is not fool proof.

EXCUSE
"I was in there picking up a gift for my mother, daughter, wife, girlfriend or sister and that is the only place you know where to find what it was on her list"

there are two soaps that work. First being ivory but that is not the best. The best soap to use has oatmeal and milk in it. You will only be able to find it by shopping in a woman’s pampering specialty shop. Sorry guys it is not in the men's hygiene section of the supermarket or drug store.

I accidentally found this soap in an antique farm house store taking the nieces and nephews to feed the ducks where I bought up every bar they had "about fifty bars" when after an outstanding day on the water. They were small bars that fit in a slot of my tackle box. I thought I had enough to last me a lifetime... Little did I know it would only last me about 5 years. Any way you might get lucky if you pass by a historical home with a gift shop, drop in and do a quick look around...
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #65[/#ff0000][/center]

[#ff0000][/#ff0000]
[#ff0000][/#ff0000]
[#000000]Ok Ice has set on and so has the cold, all you can do is concentrate on jumping up and down and becoming a thermos sponge.

You are fishing for lakers, walleye, or steelhead. What do you do? you know if you set your rod down for a second a nibble will be a run away rod, if you pull up your bait you know you will kill your shiner pulling it back up from those depths.

What oh what are ya going to do, well fortunately for you some one has come up with a new tip up device for just the occasion. It is called a "Slammer"

unfortunately it is not available in all the stores across the frozen tundra, fortunately it can be found on line with little effort, it is manufactured and distributed from a company in Michigan.

It comes in two forms, as a kit or fully assembled.

What is a slammer and how dose it work and how will it aid you in your fishing adventures?

Imagine if you will a tip up that not only doesn’t need to be fully attended but will even set the hook for you when you get a strike... all you need do is provide a rod and reel and set the drag properly and when the flag pops up run over and reel in... [/#000000]
[center]
[/center]
you can find this by typing the key words slammer icefishing steelhead when you click on the google search link at the bottom of this post
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #66[/#ff0000][/center]



Eskimo’s know where the huskies go you don’t want to eat no yellow snow.

Packing along a cold drink other than alcohol will actually help to keep you worm on the ice.

The human body actually has an internal thermometer, if you drink something hot you body is triggered in to cooling down, if you drink something cold the body is triggered in to worming up.

Huskies have known this since the last ice age. Those of us who have had the pleasure of raising huskies know that husky’s would rather eat snow as opposed to drinking water you've provided.

Birds that winter here in our northern states know this as well. Our best pheasant populations come from winters that had plenty of snow for them to feed upon during the winter months.

When we were kids we used to make our own snow cones using vanilla and white sugar. Pretty tasty actually, but we had nowhere the toxic dumping we are having now, not that it matters cause we are drinking it any way.

Which reminds me, its time for another cup of mud...
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #67[/#ff0000][/center]



When an old timer farts,

I am sure you have seen them on the ice, them old gray and weather beaten anglers sporting a 5 gallon can for a seat on the open ice while every one else is huddled in their portables.

They seem to be content right where they are, fish or no fish. Puzzling, Oddly enough if you walk up to one he will not mind the company of another angler moving in so long as you arent moving right on top of him.

You sit there waiting for something to happen, you know the old timer is there for a reason, then like farts in the wind he starts spewing words of wisdom. The first thing you start doing is looking for a way out, so you start looking for some one you know on the ice, or start thinking about the ice being whiter on the other side of the lake.

Before you can make your escape he comes up with something that has you trapped in your seat. You cant leave with out feeling rude, you moved in on top of him and now you find you don’t want his company, and he keeps talking on and on you cant get away...

sort of like this tip, it tends to go on and on with out going any where, but there is a rhyme to the madness, and it is really quite simple.

When the old timer says the ice isn’t safe today and doesn’t go out, it is for a reason, he didn’t get to be old and gray and still sitting on that bucket there jabbering away with out having becoming seasoned with the ice, seeing many more winters than he would like to admit he has seen conditions that you may or may not see your whole life time of fishing.

So today’s tip is if you are headed out it is a good idea to drop in to bigfishtackle.com and ask the old timers either on the ice fishing board or your respective regional board for the latest clues.

Had a few anglers today checked in with us today before driving their cars out on the lake they could have saved them selves a few G's in towing and repairs.

Bouy Howdy did I cut a good one...LOL
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #68[/#ff0000][/center]

Retying jigs is most important.

on my 4 pound test I use as a set line specifically for crappie that range 12-15 inches maybe a pound to two I retie after every dozen fish and always a new tie every time I go out regardless to how many fish I have caught on that tie.

On my 2-pound test that I work I change after every 20 keepers unless I tie in to crappie then every half dozen I will retie. I have worn out jigs that I have retired because I used them so much that the point has worn down to the barb.

I went though a lot of jigs before I came down with a standard of when I need to change my tie before risking loosing my jig. I found with the two-pound test I average 25 keepers that is 20-30. Every one knows in the machining business when it is time to change your cutting tools for most tool life and production time.

The old timers fishing with the one-pound test may have me on the timing of fish but I have them on the cost effectiveness. We tie on the numbers because of state set limits. They may leave before I do with their limits, but I know it cost them at least 8 - 10 dollars in lost jigs. They would loose a jig about every 10-12 fish not necessarily keepers.
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<" }}^ >< Ice Fishing Tip #46 Revised[/#ff0000][/center]

for some reason I got chinch on this tip so I revised it to make it worth entering on the ice fishing tip of the day.
[size 5]Perch rigs can be found for under $3.oo almost any where[/size]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]They can also be made by hand at well under the cost of buying a new one per unit provided you don’t mind the investments of tools and materials that will cost you well above the $3.oo mark.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]The simplest and easiest is to rig your main line with a lightweight swivel snap with your split shot sinkers about an inch above your snap.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
· [font "Times New Roman"]Using 2-4 pound test line and a number #Aberdeen hook you will make a single hook Snell leader about 6 inches and no more than 12 inches, I my self when fishing for perch stick to the 6 inch leaders, and only enough weight to hold the minnow down but not enough that it weight my rod down. I don’t use a bobber with this set up but you can and is probably a good idea if you are using a bobbin and not a rod.[/font]
· [font "Times New Roman"]Using lightweight stainless steel wire you can build to any shape perch rig. With this you will want to use a rod that is better set up for walleye because of the weight involved. This will require hand pliers’ beads #1 size spinner plaids and clevis if you desire. Again you will want to use single hook snelling leaders no longer than 6 inches, commercially made units are usually made from 12-15 pound test line.[/font]
· [font "Times New Roman"]You will want to review your state laws before you start manufacturing you perch rigs to make sure you don’t violate any hook limits that you are allowed to use on your rigs, Michigan has a 2 hook limit the last time I checked. I have seen Rigs from years ago with as many as a dozen snells set up on a single perch rig.[/font]
· [font "Times New Roman"]Rigs with spinning arms “Christmas Tree Rigs” are easy to manufacture by using arm locks “barrel crimps and beads”. Slide on your crimp two beads and another crimp on to your wire rig before finishing off he bottom. If you make your arm before placing the arm locks make sure you twist the eyelet well smaller than the bead diameter and you can slide that up between the beads when loading the shaft. It is best to leave every thing loose until you finish off the bottom. Then you can set your arm at the height you want it. [/font]
· [font "Times New Roman"]It is vary important that when designing your rig that you do it in a manor where your snells can not come in contact with each other or rap around your rig trunk. Minnows will swim in every direction, up down around and even towards each other. [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font] [center][font "Times New Roman"][][/font]dont forget to wiggle your jig[][/center]
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<" }}^ >< Ice Fishing Tip #48[/#ff0000][/center] [center][#ff0000][/#ff0000] [/center]
[font "Times New Roman"]Enhancing your ice jigs.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Many of us have jigs left over from last year, if you are anything like me, then you hate to throw away anything that can be of use.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Many of us have jigs that have chipped paint from being pinched by our hemostats; some of us just want to dress up some of our less productive jigs. And others who want to just do a complete make over. Others may have jigs with hooks worn down past the barb.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Ok so they only cost a buck or three to replace. When you have to replace 10 there is twenty bucks right there. And during hard times even the price of a hook can break the bank for those of us who fish for food and not sport.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]For others it is a labor of love, we just aint happy if we aren’t doing something constructive while waiting for the ice to set up.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Most any old jig can be made over in to a real gem of a lure. [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Tools and materials are needed of which most can be found around an anglers’ house. Pencil torch or small soldering torch, old fly vice, silver solder, number #8 long shanks Aberdeen hooks, epoxy, fine tipped paint brushes, your gal’s old finger nail polish, jig head paints powder or liquid, fly tying odds and ends, split shot sinkers and any other tidbits you may have around the house. Even enamel paint markers can be used.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]If you don’t have this item you will want to pick it up, Gloss clear fingernail polish, and glow in the dark fingernail polish that can be found at any Halloween or gag shop. [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]My favorite and most used enhancement is to put a little glow polish on my teardrop jigs. This is a real help when fishing in depths of 20-25 feet or more especially when the ice gets deep and snow covered. This enhancement can be applied to any jig body regardless to the finished condition. Or you can touch them up then apply the glow gloss. [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]If you have glow powder you can mix that with clear fingernail polish to make a glow powder of your own. One thin coat will allow the original color of the lure to shine through. I have even used my glow powder mixed in foxy epoxy and plied to lures for a spectacular finish when adding glitter. [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]Another thing you can do is tie skirts, streamers and wings to your jig heads. You can use epoxy or nail polish to weight down old fly heads in to jig bodies. I have used small flies on a separate lead from my jig to catch a few bonus fish.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[font "Times New Roman"]I will admit I am a hack when it comes to painting and fine touch ups even tho’ my jigs do pull up the fish but they aint pretty, so I am going to refer you to a post by Tubedude, a true master of jig making and finishing. He is the man you want to talk to about the fine art.[/font]
[font "Times New Roman"] [/font]
[url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/cgi-bin/gforum/gforum.cgi?post=233157;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;"][#000000]Glow goodies[/#000000][/url] [left] [/left]
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000][size 3]<[/size][/#ff0000][size 3][black][#ff0000]@}})))>< Ice Fishing Tip #50
[/#ff0000]
[/black][/size][/center]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size] [center][black][size 3]Bragging Rights[/size][/black][/center]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size] [center][black][size 3]Do I or Don’t I[/size][/black][/center]


[black][size 3]I hear what ya mean about the bragging becoming a detrimental to a lake. I have seen this mostly on privet waters. Many of the public waters are managed by wildlife management “DNR in Michigan TWM in Tennessee” your state or providence may have a different title for the office but are basically the same. They have the same goal in mind, providing desirable game fish to keep the privet fishing market stable. [/size][/black]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size]
[black][size 3]Keeping this in mind consider my expressing of a simple fact below with an open mind.

Bragging dose have its place, It is actually a tool used by our state as a way of wild game managers measuring the success of their plantings. [/size][/black]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size]
[black][size 3]What happens is if no one catches sizeable fish that have been planted there then the state will say the lake cant support plantings and will never restock. Then when it gets fished out of lets say of prized walleyes then there won’t be any more planted in the future. The only way our wild game managers know if their plantings were worth their efforts is by anglers bragging. It cost way too much for them to hire some one to go out and search the entire lake to see if walleye have taken hold.

I used to work for the wild game management here so that is how I learned about it. I don’t know if you have public lakes up your way that are managed, but if you ever do get in to one and you catch something be sure to give out a hoot and a holler, at least to your wild life department. I have been asked to report any catches of planted species in managed areas by our DNR directly to them as a metered datum. I am not a pro angler whom gets paid for doing what I love, just one who understands that fish plantings are now part of the norm of game fishing in my area and will not survive with out it.[/size][/black]
[size 3][black] [/black][/size][black][size 3][font "Verdana"][black]This way I am part of a tool in which they can measure that the species dose well in said lake or river and when it is time and is it worth the effort and expense to restock to keep anglers coming back. These places usually have areas that have pay for the day entrance or seasonal entry passes to offset the cost. If the waters do not produce sizeable fish and there is a great survival rate of the plantings then there is not much of a chance of the lake being restocked[/black][/font].[/size][/black]
[signature]

[davetclown]

I know you have moved to a cooler climate, I was wondering if you have become aclimated enough yet to make it out on the ice?
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #71[/#ff0000][/center]

Lets face it, there are some of us who use heat during the winter,

many sorces are lanterns, propane, and globe heaters all of which creates Carbon Monoxide.

Carbon Monoxide poisening leading to death among ice fishing anglers is not common, but this dosnt mean that anglers havent come out with head aches nausia or disorentation.

so remember not to make your shelters air tight, provide air vents, at least open the door every half hour or so.

remember, the price of high price of wroms is not caused by the shortage of worm food, therefore there is no reason to take a bullet for the team. so take care.

here is some information about carbon monoxide to concider and keep in the back of your mind. and share it with your family, you never know who will be the one to save the life of the whole family by just opening a door and a window and calling 911.

---

Symptoms Of Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Know the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. At moderate levels, you or your family can get severe headaches, become dizzy, mentally , nauseated, or faint. You can even die if these levels persist for a long time. Low levels can cause shortness of breath, mild nausea, and mild headaches, and may have longer term effects on your health.

Since many of these symptoms are similar to those of the flu, food poisoning, or other illnesses, you may not think that CO poisoning could be the cause.

If you experience symptoms that you think could be from CO poisoning: [ul] [li]GET FRESH AIR IMMEDIATELY. Open doors and windows, turn off combustion appliances and leave the house.
[li]GO TO AN EMERGENCY ROOM and tell the physician you suspect CO poisoning. If CO poisoning has occurred, it can often be diagnosed by a blood test done soon after exposure.
[li]Be prepared to answer the following questions for the doctor: [ul] [li]Do your symptoms occur only in the house? Do they disappear or decrease when you leave home and reappear when you return? [li]Is anyone else in your household complaining of similar symptoms? Did everyone's symptoms appear about the same time? [li]Are you using any fuel-burning appliances in the home? [li]Has anyone inspected your appliances lately? Are you certain they are working properly? [/li][/ul][/li][/ul]

Source: [url "http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/coftsht.html"]Environmental Protection Agency[/url]

---

What Is Carbon Monoxide?
Carbon Monoxide is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America, according to the Journal of the American Medical Association. Fifteen hundred people die annually due to accidental carbon monoxide exposure, and additional 10,000 seek medical attention. (Medical experts agree that it's difficult to estimate the total number of carbon monoxide incidents because the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning resemble so many other common ailments.)


Carbon monoxide is a flammable, colorless, odorless, tasteless toxic gas produced during incomplete combustion of fuel.

During normal combustion, each atom of carbon in the burning fuel joins with two atoms of oxygen -- forming a harmless gas called carbon dioxide. When there is a lack of oxygen to ensure complete combustion of the fuel, each atom of carbon links up with only one atom of oxygen -- forming carbon monoxide gas.


What Is The Danger?


Carbon monoxide inhibits the blood's capacity to carry oxygen. In our lungs, CO quickly passes into our bloodstream and attaches itself to hemoglobin (oxygen carrying pigment in red blood cells). Hemoglobin readily accepts carbon monoxide -- even over the life giving oxygen atoms (as much as 200 times as readily as oxygen) forming a toxic compound known as carboxyhemoglobin (COHb).

By replacing oxygen with carbon monoxide in our blood, our bodies poison themselves by cutting off the needed oxygen to our organs and cells, causing various amounts of damage -- depending on exposure.

Low levels of carbon monoxide poisoning (with COHb levels of 10 percent) result in symptoms commonly mistaken for common flu and cold symptoms -- shortness of breath on mild exertion, mild headaches, nausea.

With higher levels of poisoning (COHb levels of 30 percent) the symptoms become more severe -- dizziness, mental confusion, severe headaches, nausea, fainting on mild exertion.

At high levels (CHOb of 50 percent or more), there may be unconsciousness and death.


How Does CO Enter The Home?


Carbon monoxide can escape from any fuel-burning appliance, furnace, water heater, fireplace, woodstove, or space heater.

Any of these things can be very dangerous: [ul] [li]A faulty furnace, maybe from mechanical failure [li]A clogged fireplace from a bird's nest resting on top [li]Water heaters, perhaps damaged in a flood [li]A gas stove in your kitchen [li]A faulty space heater [li]A gas dryer that's not properly installed [li]A grill used inside a garage during winter [li]A car in the garage[/li][/ul]

Most newer homes are built very air-tight, thus cutting down on the supply of fresh air to your furnace - and creating an oxygen starved flame. Tight closing replacement windows and doors, as well as additional insulation can cause similar problems in older homes.

Carbon monoxide can spill from vent connections in poorly maintained or blocked chimneys. If the flue liner is cracked or deteriorated, CO can seep through the liner and into the house -- slowly creeping up to dangerous levels. If a nest or other materials restrict or block the flue, CO will mostly spill back into the house.

Improperly sized flues connected to new high-efficiency furnaces and water heaters can also contribute to CO spillage. (Many new furnaces and water heaters are installed using the existing chimneys which may be the wrong size to allow the furnace to vent properly.)

Warming up vehicles in an attached garage, even with the garage door opened, can allow concentrated amounts of CO to enter your home through the car port door or near-by windows. Wind can also blow fumes back into the garage, and temperature differences between the indoors and outside can move CO back into your house or garage.


What To Do In A CO emergency


If you are suffering from chronic flu-like symptoms, see your doctor and ask her if it could be a low-level CO poisoning.

If you have a CO detector, and it alarms, open windows and ventilate your home with fresh air, have your heating system checked by a professional.

If your alarm sounds and you are feeling drowsy or dizzy, leave the house and call 911 from your neighbors' home. You may need medical attention for CO poisoning.


Home inspection can help


Having your home inspected each year at the beginning of the heating season can help avoid deadly carbon monoxide gas from leaking into your home, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

CO poisoning from the use of fuel burning appliances kills at least 200 people each year and sends more than 5,000 to hospital emergency rooms for treatment. Consumers can avoid this by having their fuel-burning appliances inspected by a qualified technician each year, and by purchasing and installing CO detectors.

Modern heating equipment is sophisticated and requires special training and tools for proper maintenance; consumers should not service their own appliances, but instead have a qualified professional perform an inspection.

A yearly inspection of your home by a professional should include a careful look at the following sources of carbon monoxide:
[ul] [li]Furnaces, hot water heaters and stoves. If they burn natural gas, heating oil, wood or other kinds of fuel, these appliances are potential sources of CO.
[li]Chimneys, flues and vents. Have flues and chimneys inspected before each heating season for leakage and for blockage by creosote or debris. Creosote buildup or leakage could cause black stains on the outside of the chimney or flue. These stains can mean that pollutants are leaking into the house. Have all vents to furnaces, water heaters or boilers checked to make sure they are not loose or disconnected.
[li]High Temperature Plastic Venting (HTPV) pipes, which are used in mid-efficiency appliances, may separate or crack. This could allow CO from the furnace to enter a home. Homeowners with a gas-fired mid-efficiency furnace or boiler installed between 1987 and 1993 should have them inspected for cracking or separating. [li]Improper ventilation. Make sure that your appliances have adequate ventilation. A supply of fresh air is important to help carry pollutants up the chimney, stovepipe or flue, and is necessary for the complete combustion of any fuel. [li]Finally, consumers should be aware that charcoal grills can also be a potential source of CO. Never use charcoal grills in enclosed spaces such as a home, garage, vehicle or tent, and never bring grills with live coals indoors after use. Never use charcoal grills as an indoor heat source.[/li][/ul]

Carbon monoxide is a deadly threat, but it can be avoided by having a yearly professional inspection of your home fuel burning appliances and by installing a CO detector that meets the most recent UL standards
CARBON MONOXIDE Video: [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/video/6400215/index.html"]Study Links Heart Disease, CO Poisoning[/url]
[li]In Depth: [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/health/880566/detail.html"]What Is CO?[/url]
[li]Symptoms: [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/health/1586218/detail.html"]CO Poisoning[/url] [li]Tips: [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/houseandhome/1604208/detail.html"]Protect Home[/url] | [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/houseandhome/1604220/detail.html"]Detectors[/url] [li]Survey: [url "http://www.clickondetroit.com/news/880566/detail.html#"]Have A CO Detector?[/url][/li]
[signature]

[davetclown]

[#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #72[/#ff0000]
[#ff0000][/#ff0000]
[#ff0000][/#ff0000] [left] [font "arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][#00e010]Ice Safety Tips[/#00e010][/font]
[/left] [font "arial, helvetica, sans-serif"][black] [ol] [li]Avoid crossing frozen bodies of water in a single file.
[li]Never venture onto the ice alone or without telling your plans to a responsible adult.
[li]Any time you are on the ice and have not personally checked the ice thickness consider yourself in harm's way. Check the thickness of the ice with an ice spud before venturing onto the ice.
[li]Never Drive a Car or Truck on the ice.
[li]Avoid standing or walking in areas with a group of people.
[li]Always wear a life jacket when on the frozen surface of a lake or river.
[li]Carry a pair of ice picks. These are designed for a self rescue and are two handles with a nail device in one end attached to each other by a length of rope.
[li]Look for large cracks or depressions in the ice.
[li]Learn and practice rescue techniques by using ropes, boats, ladders, etc.
[li]Ice does not form with uniform thickness on any body of water. Underwater springs or currents can wear thin spots on any body of water.
[li]Clear ice is the strongest. Ice formed by melted and refrozen snow appears milky, is very porous and very weak. Ice covered by snow should always be presumed unsafe.
[li]Four inches of ice will generally hold an average-sized person on foot. Snowmobiles and ORVs need at least eight inches of solid, consistent ice.

[/black][/font][/li][/ol]compliments of [size 3]State of Michigan DNR[/size]
[signature]

[lonehunter]

How deep should you start off at for locating fish in a lake ? will all the fish be located at the same debth or will different species be at different debths ?
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][size 1][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #73[/#ff0000][/size][/center] [center][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][/size][/font] [/center] [center][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]How to process a Pan Fish[/size][/font][/center] [center][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8642/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/size][/font][/center] [center][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][/size][/font][/center][font "Times New Roman"][size 3][/size][/font]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]I don’t need to tell you about safety first, but then I would be skipping a step my self.. so remember your safety rules and practices. [/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size] [ul] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Never process food while under the influence of alcohol [/size][/font] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Never cut toward your self[/size][/font] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Never attempt to clean any animal or vegetable with a dull knife[/size][/font] [li][font "Times New Roman"][size 3]Always have a first aid kit on hand just in case you do make a mistake.[/li][/ul]
[/size][/font] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8637/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/center] [left][/left]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]There are many tools used for sharpening knives, a quality wet rock or honing steel is really all you need, [/size][/font]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3][/size][/font] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8644/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/center]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]I use the wet rock to sharpen my knife before starting to process my harvest.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]I use the honing steel to touch up the blade of my knife during my processing of my harvest, My grandma never used any thing other than her wet rock sharpening several times while processing a mess of fish. I prefer the steel because it is easier to clean afterwards.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size]
[font "Times New Roman"][size 3]In my photos you will see paper under the crappie, it is common practice to use newspaper under the fish while cleaning, I prefer to use a clean smooth flat surface that I can wipe down during the processing task because I use a small work area where I cant spread out my work.[/size][/font]
[size 3][font "Times New Roman"][/font][/size][font "Times New Roman"]
[size 3]Step 1[/size]
[size 3]I start by making a vertical cut from the top of the head down to the lower fin following the gill. [/size] [center][size 3][/size][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8639/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]I don’t cut through, you can if you want to, but I find I don’t need to do the extra work of cutting off the head and pulling the innards out.[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Step 2[/size]
[size 3]Rotate the fish 180 degrees [/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8641/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Insert your fillet knife just under the skin and follow the backbone along the top fin until you have just passed the rib cage.[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Step 3[/size]
[size 3]Lift the edge of the fish[/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8643/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Cut the remaining flesh down to the backbone[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Step 4[/size]
[size 3]Lift the edge of the fish fillet [/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8646/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Insert your fillet knife flat level with the backbone just behind the rib cage[/size]
[size 3]Cut along the bone to the tail. [/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Step 5[/size]
[size 3]Trace along the rib cage to finish off the fillet[/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8638/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Be careful not to cut the ribs, they are easy to cut though [/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8640/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]If you do cut though one be sure to remember to remove it from the fillet before cooking.[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Step 6[/size]
[size 3]This is where having a sharp knife is really important. A dull knife will rip the skin or the fillet[/size]
[size 3]Skin the fillet by laying the scale side down on a “clean” flat surface [/size]
[size 3]Hold down the tip of the tail [/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8645/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Gently cut down to the scales being careful not to cut though, it is easy to do, [/size]
[size 3]Once you reach the skin turn your knife flat to the cutting surface and slide across the skin to the other end.[/size] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8647/size/big/cat/574"][size 3][/size][/url][/center]
[size 3]Don’t be to critical of how you do, you will get better the more you get in practice processing fish.[/size]
[size 3][/size][size 3]Step 7[/size]
[size 3]Pan Fish has a spare set of ribbones; they are short from a 1/6th to ¼ but easy to remove.[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[size 3]Look at the flesh from the side you cut away from the rib cage, feal along the visible center line and you will be able to feel the spare set of ribs.[/size] [center][size 3][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8648/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/size][/center]
[size 3]To remove them cut along the side of the little bones with your fillet knife on both side in my example I cut wider than necessary to show the general area where the bones are located and how to remove them.[/size]
[size 3][/size]
[/font]
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #74[/#ff0000][/center]

Look for
chanels
drop off down to 25 feet
canals
recessess in shallow areas

use a fish finder if you have one to locate your fish and mark their depths.

work your lure from the top of the ice to the bottom of the lake creek or river and back up again, fish will move up or down to hit, Walleye are aspecialy known for dropping to hit lures and bait where as gills and crappie are known for going up to hit still there are pike which tend to stay at the same level not going up or down to hit offerings....
[signature]

[davetclown]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #75[/#ff0000][/center]

Convertable Ice fishing rod....

If you have a two peice summer fishing rod, the rest is easy and simple as cutting a peice of dowl to lenth, drilling a hole in the end and rappin a peice of tape.

the rest is just window dressing....

for a handle, you can use almost any dowl stock, broom handle wood paint roller extention handle, cutting off the end of an old fishing rod handle, a dried limb from a tree...

here is a couple examples.

this first one is a convertable, [ul] [li]I grabbed the top peice from a standard two peice rod, cut a lenth of cheery limb that had been drying since last spring.. [/li] [li]stripped off the bark, [/li] [li]sanded it down [/li] [li]drilled a tight slip hole to put the rod peice in and can be taken back out. [/li] [li]I finished off the wood handle with melted bees wax to keep it from taking on any moisture, [/li] [li]I used duct tape to mount the reel [/li][/ul] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8662/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/center] [center]Red Hot Convertable[/center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8662/cat/574"][/url]
(total cost, a couple pennies worth of duct tape)

---

this second one is for Walleye.
[ul] [li]scrounging around though odds and ends I found a solid fiberglass rod, [/li] [li]found a bottom peice of another rod, "not matching" [/li] [li]I cut the rod off the handle [/li] [li]drilled out a hole in the handle to fit the fiberglass rod in. [/li] [li]I used foxy poxy to glue to perminantly mount the rod in place. [/li] [li]I cut and sanded parts of the handle off I deemed to be in my way...[/li][/ul] [center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8663/size/big/cat/574"][/url][/center] [center]Walleye[/center]
(total cost for this rig was a $2 for the glue)

---

[signature]

[davetclown]

[center]Addition to tip[/center] [center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #65[/#ff0000][/center]

Here is my first attempt at building a Slammer style tipup.. "used for salmon and walleye in the great lakes"

"sorry, I did not follow the directions. you can order a kit or one pre-assembled"
[center][url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8690/cat/574"][/url] [url "http://www.bigfishtackle.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/8689/cat/574"][/url][/center] [center]Click to enlarge photos[/center]
[signature]

[BigFishingShop]

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #76[/#ff0000]

[left]
Hi, great stuff, just wanted to add : Make sure to take a good shower or bath before leaving home, clogged up oily skin and laid down hair is a very poor insulator. I'm no Ice Fishing guru but no stranger to conditions that can kill the ignorant before they realize they're in trouble.

Speaking personally, when I'm fresh clean, I am good for several hours in proper dress in the worst of Northwest winters , if I am not, I am chilled in little time no matter what I am wearing.

[center][#ff0000]<*@}))))))X< Ice Fishing Tip number #77[/#ff0000]
[left]
Smokers, like myself, you plan to be out in winter extremes, find an alternative i.e. gum, not chew or just don't smoke. Nicotine administrations cause an immediate constriction of the fine end points of your vascular system meaning the nice warm blood pumped out of your heart wont effectively circulate to those fingers and toes, nose and ears, areas most prone to frostbite.

Heed davitclowns advice, this guy knows his Ice Fishing
[signature]

[davetclown]

good points, oil wont freeze, not even animal oil, it will thicken how ever and it is not an insulator. "reason for using thinner oil in the car for winter"

and yep, oxigen is a radiant of either heat or cold. A good supply of oxigen comming from the center of the soal will worm up the digets much better...

thanks, I will label your tip of the day with a number.[cool]
[signature]

[BigFishingShop]

Sincerely feel honored [], thanks, BFS [fishin]
[signature]

[BigFishingShop]

Hi davetclown, readers, unfortunately I have not had opportunity to read all your wonderful tips yet and I am sure this will probably be there, but if overlooked somehow, for your day off posting:

Bring a common kitchen metal soup ladle with you ; Makes the perfect tool to remove little chunks of snow and ice and keeping your nice hole clean if it is icing over on ya of course, but by design, dip deeper and smaller holes better than the standard tackle shop variety as depicted in the pic. as they are more a flat topped cup when held straight up and down, and typically stouter if you have been neglecting a hole and it needs a little quick punching out.

I have a hole drilled in the bottom of mine also to drain just the water as I'm dipping, Most of my holes are jabbed as apposed to drilled as well and the standard dipper is designed to pull material up the walls of a nicely augered hole, they can be a pain when it's jagged.

Heck, they can't serve soup until you get home with it either so wont be missin' out on anything good that way. Gonna get the best of the soup pot too before ya plug that hole and pass it around ! [laugh] BFS, always multi-tasking !!

And if you already have that one, takes repetition for me to learn anything new, no harm seein' it twice eh? If it is a repeat, let me know and I'll throw another log on the fire and see if I can't come up with something else to help ya out with that well-deserved day off.

BFS
.
[inline "Ice Fishing 007.jpg"]
[signature]